Top down fire start: First experience worked well!

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John Kuhn

Member
Dec 29, 2017
93
Wisconsin
Still using the old VC Defiant 1910 for another week, before getting my WS Progress Hybrid installed. Learned about the top down fire starting technique on this forum, and you people taught this 62 yr old guy something new!

Started with two 4-5" splits on the bottom, worked my way up with layers of two splits set alternately slightly crossways, each layer progressively smaller, ended with half dozen pine 1/2" thick kindling splits at the top. Then two sheets of newspaper rolled from the corner, tied with a half knot on top of the kindling. Set the air control on max, lit it, and lo and behold that fire did indeed work its way down. Less draft than usual today because outside temps above freezing, but seemed like plenty of air, and an easy light.

I observed that my griddle temp got to 500 degrees much faster, but that's only because the flames were licking it right from the beginning. It took significantly longer for the fire to build some coals to the point I could flip the bypass lever and engage the catalyst. Just guessing, with the old method engaged the cat after 15 min, with this method after 1/2 hour. I'll try it again tomorrow.

But the slower start is not really a big deal, and actually quite useful for when I start my first fires in the new stove. I understand it's a good idea to "break in" the stove with slow easy starts, getting progressively hotter, and this method does that quite naturally. I also like the idea that there is less smoke, and thus should be less creosote during startup, as well as less air pollution. I also think it's easier and more stable to start with the heavy stuff on the bottom and get smaller as you go up, with paper at the top, rather than vice versa classic method.
 
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Yeah, if you go out and look at the stack, there's almost no smoke coming out.
I would thing that fire in the top of the box would allow you to get the top of the stove hotter sooner, but that's not happening for you?
Can't wait for your reports on the PH..you provide a lot of detail in your posts, which us nerds enjoy. :)
 
Yeah, if you go out and look at the stack, there's almost no smoke coming out.
I would thing that fire in the top of the box would allow you to get the top of the stove hotter sooner, but that's not happening for you?
Can't wait for your reports on the PH..you provide a lot of detail in your posts, which us nerds enjoy. :)

Yes, the top of the stove gets hot faster, but the stack temp, overall stove temp and development of hot coals takes longer. Therefore longer until I feel comfortable engaging the cat (I don't have a cat probe).

Yep, I'm a nerd too, feel right at home on this forum! :cool:
 
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longer until I feel comfortable engaging the cat (I don't have a cat probe).
Yep, I'm a nerd too, feel right at home on this forum! :cool:
My Dutchwest 2460 has a cat probe. The probe hole provided in the Keystone requires an 8" probe, which is too long to accurately transmit the cat exit temp all the way back to the dial. I either have to install a thermocouple probe, or drill a hole in the top of the stove for a shorter probe. As it is, the probe serves as a monitor of the flue exit temp, which pretty much parallels the temp of the surface meter I have on the tee snout in my rear-vented setup.
 
If you're not in a hurry to get the new stove installed, consider doing the break-in fires outdoors. New stoves stink! (And they stink again every time they hit a new high temperature.)
 
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Interesting thought, but for me more trouble than it's worth to get it off and on the crate base for multiple moves, which is the easiest way to move it. Guess I'll be opening some windows, but at least there isn't any extreme cold weather in the forecast...
 
for me more trouble than it's worth to get it off and on the crate base for multiple moves
I just put a box fan in a window near the stove, blowing out, then open a window across the room. That will get most of it..
 
I noticed when I got my PH (Rear exit - tee - up 15 ft) and started the first fire I realized that it started much easier than any previous stoves I have owned. It didn't smell too bad as most of it is soapstone and I opened a few windows.
 
(And they stink again every time they hit a new high temperature.)
That's true. After five years, I still occasionally get that, but sometimes its just dust after a period of non-use. In my case, I think it's often the outside of my double wall pipe that seems to have never quite fully cured and when I accidentally let the flue temp go up a little too much.

Its not really a problem but don't let it bother you after it's been installed if that happens.
 
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I noticed when I got my PH (Rear exit - tee - up 15 ft) and started the first fire I realized that it started much easier than any previous stoves I have owned. It didn't smell too bad as most of it is soapstone and I opened a few windows.

So do you usually use the top down method for starting, or the classic method with paper and kindling on the bottom?
 
So do you usually use the top down method for starting, or the classic method with paper and kindling on the bottom?
It doesnt have to be either bottom or top. I've been using an in-between method where I'll lay down a layer or two on the bottom depending on size, then a couple of small chunks of Super Cedars and build up from there. Works for me.

But every stove, every wood species, and every situation is different, so experiment. Whatever works.
 
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It doesnt have to be either bottom or top. I've been using an in-between method where I'll lay down a layer or two on the bottom depending on size, then a couple of small chunks of Super Cedars and build up from there.
I do that quite a bit. I'll put a couple Red Oak on the bottom, White Oak on top of the Red in the back, a flat Cherry on the Red in front, a couple small SuperCedar chunks and some kindling on the Cherry. That Cherry in the top front gets going a lot easier than Oak does, and that White Oak will burn well with the Red under it to make sure it gets going.
I've also built a top-down with coals, or a mostly-burnt split that went out in the back. I've got a BBQ tongs to put a few larger coals on the flat piece in the top/front. Sure, I could just throw new wood on the coals, but where's the fun in that? ;lol
 
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