Trim collar?

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nettlesf

New Member
Feb 15, 2016
3
Oregon
[Hearth.com] Trim collar?

We just bought a house and the wood stove pipe/liner is 6 inches in diameter. The pipe exits through a chimney as seen in picture. The opening approx 8 inches is bigger than the liner. What could I use to cover this gap? There is evidence of an old coverage that was 10 inches in diameter. Trim collar? Something else?
 
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Looks to me like there's DEFINITELY something missing. Whether or not it's ONLY a trim collar, depends upon what type of pipe is already in there. Can you get access to that pipe further up in the install? I'm thinkin it's an 8" Class A, but I'd need to see either a manufacturer's ID or maybe a look at the cap. If it's an 8" Class A, there should be an 8"-to-6" reducer there, instead of an SS flex liner, & a flex-to-rigid adapter to the connector pipe. Not a nice install, in my book. Others may chime in now...
 
Daksy can you take me to school on chimney classes? What's wrong with this other than the missing "trim collar"?
 
It looks like it's missing the through piece for the ceiling. It looks like that pipe is Duravent. So possibly you need the finishing collar with adapter?

I'm not an expert though.

[Hearth.com] Trim collar?
 
I dont see anything missing other than either a trim collar or some mortar. And possibly insulation on the liner. It looks to me like a flex liner with an adapter hooked to black stove pipe nothing wrong there. We would usually mortar it in with chamber tech or something like that regular mortar would be more prone to cracking but work just fine.
 
Daksy can you take me to school on chimney classes? What's wrong with this other than the missing "trim collar"?

As I see it, there are a NUMBER of things wrong here.
The connector pipe is supposed to be securely connected to a solidly anchored section of Class A chimney via a reducer. NOT
The use of Class A requires a support box, which has to extend a MINIMUM of 3" into the room from the ceiling surface. NOT
The weight of SS flex Liner & the Flex-to-rigid adapter are held up by the offset connector pipe, which, requires additional
securing (i.e. plumber's strapping or perforated steel strips or angles). NOT
The unsupported offset severely reduces it's weight bearing capabilities.
Granted, there isn't a LOT of weight there, but that doesn't make it right.
The SS liner & the F-t-R should not be visible for both aesthetic & safety reasons. NOT
End of lesson one.
 
NOT
The weight of SS flex Liner & the Flex-to-rigid adapter are held up by the offset connector pipe, which, requires additional
securing (i.e. plumber's strapping or perforated steel strips or angles). NOT
The unsupported offset severely reduces it's weight bearing capabilities.
Granted, there isn't a LOT of weight there, but that doesn't make it right.
The SS liner & the F-t-R should not be visible for both aesthetic & safety reasons. NOT
End of lesson one.
The liner is supported from the top it is not resting on the pipe. but i would secure it with mortar anyway. What are the safety issues with the adapter being exposed it is no different than the single wall black pipe below it. I would paint it black but the stainless needs to extend into the room so you can attach your pipe to it.
 
Now i don't know what that alcoves construction is unless it is all masonry there is probably a clearance issue but it looks like it may be all masonry.
 
What is critical in this installation is to know it's construction. If this is an alcove with wood framing, class A pipe is required.

Nettlesf is the stone we see on the walls a veneer, or solid masonry? Is the chase that the liner goes up into solid masonry all the way up, with 2" clearances from combustibles, of is it a stone veneered chase with wood stud framing?
 
This is all masonary. 6 inch liner and 6 inch pipe. Really just looking to cover that gap that can be seen. Is there any other way rather than mortar? Thanks!
 
Nice looking set up!

You definitely will want an answer from somebody more knowledgeable than me but if its masonry you shouldn't have to worry about anything other than fabricating your filler plate or buying one. You might see how much an adjustable storm collar is and if it'll fit up in there for you. Most of the connections I've seen on here seem to use a hose clamp between the liner and interior pipe, looks like yours is screwed in which could make attaching your filler tricky.
 
Just a simple stove pipe trim collar will work. But the right way to do it is mortar it that will hold that liner steady and prevent any air movement around that liner
 
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