It got 300 hrs on it and being to not want to pull its self up small hills. Best I can tell that the belt has never been changed and fluid either. Am I missing anything?Tuff Torq K62 trans
Trouble shooting a jd lx 277 tranny.
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Two weeks ago, the drive belt on my Husqvarna tractor snapped at 329 hours. Before that, the tractor was sluggish on hills and slower than usual in reverse. After replacement, it drives like new.
When looking in the owners manual at the section on how to change the belt, I noticed that it stated to inspect this belt every 100 hrs. Who knew?!!
When looking in the owners manual at the section on how to change the belt, I noticed that it stated to inspect this belt every 100 hrs. Who knew?!!
Two weeks ago, the drive belt on my Husqvarna tractor snapped at 329 hours. Before that, the tractor was sluggish on hills and slower than usual in reverse. After replacement, it drives like new.
When looking in the owners manual at the section on how to change the belt, I noticed that it stated to inspect this belt every 100 hrs. Who knew?!!
lol I am at 270 on mine and never changed and just now changing the deck belt.
I can't recall exactly but most LX's had serviceable transmissions so fluid change is just pull the plug and refill/bleed. I do recommend starting up with the rear off the ground and working the pedals until the trans runs normally. Check Tuff Torq's site for fluid recommendations (probably 5W50 synthetic engine oil). JD filled everything with either Low-Visc Hyguard or 10W30. 
If the belt is in good shape, (it's likely getting close at 300+ hours), the fluid change should help. How does it drive cold? Is the trans noticeably weaker as it warms up?
If the belt is in good shape, (it's likely getting close at 300+ hours), the fluid change should help. How does it drive cold? Is the trans noticeably weaker as it warms up?
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
Turf torq publishes both what the Oem fills the trans with and their recommendation.
I can't recall exactly but most LX's had serviceable transmissions so fluid change is just pull the plug and refill/bleed. I do recommend starting up with the rear off the ground and working the pedals until the trans runs normally. Check Tuff Torq's site for fluid recommendations (probably 5W50 synthetic engine oil). JD filled everything with either Low-Visc Hyguard or 10W30.
If the belt is in good shape, (it's likely getting close at 300+ hours), the fluid change should help. How does it drive cold? Is the trans noticeably weaker as it warms up?
No it is pretty consistent. I mowed about an acre with it and was doing the same thing from the first pass to the last.
Bret Hart
Burning Hunk
Bret Hart
Burning Hunk
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Use only the oils
recommended. HY-GARD® - JDM J20C can be
mixed with 5W30 or 10W30 in this application.
Do not use LOW VISCOSITY HY - GARD® oil.
recommended. HY-GARD® - JDM J20C can be
mixed with 5W30 or 10W30 in this application.
Do not use LOW VISCOSITY HY - GARD® oil.
Wow, Deere actually doesn't recommend Low-visc...... Usually it's interchangeable if not outright preferred.
Fwiw: I would check with Tuff Torq and if they say 5W-50 then that's what I'd be pouring in it.
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
http://m.deere.com/servlet/com.deer...riteria=LA+135&language=english&submit=Search
Your T40 is the first line in the Tuff Torque chart. 5W50 is the rec. replacement fluid.
Deere has some very odd sizes of belts that they use. They frequently have widths that are 1/16" or 1/32" wider/narrower or a profile that is different than a standard 4L, A, B 1/2" or 5/8" belt that you might find elsewhere. Stens has a few that match up better (and are good belts) but nothing beats the OEM fit with Deere.
Their belts are of exceptional quality and I've used them in applications outside of lawn & garden to amazing results. There is no tougher environment to run a belt drive in than a mower deck. Heat, dirt, moisture, varying loads that often spike rapidly,
. It's a great torture test of a belt. Most of the time the pricing isn't too bad either for the quality of the belt. There are some OEMs that demand a fortune for belts that you can buy off the shelf anywhere. (Husqvarna was one notable offender. Wasn't unheard of for some of their Commercial ZTR belts to approach $200. 
)Their belts are of exceptional quality and I've used them in applications outside of lawn & garden to amazing results. There is no tougher environment to run a belt drive in than a mower deck. Heat, dirt, moisture, varying loads that often spike rapidly,
Tell me about it. I just paid around $100 for an OE exmark deck belt. Their wheel drive belts are well over $100 and you need 2 of them! Good thing I went to hydro drives. I've always replaced any type of belts before they are noticibly going bad and kept the old one as a spare. Doing so has saved my butt on more than one occassion.
La 135, actually all of the LA series use a throwaway peerless Trans. Same as the mtd, huskey, and the rest of the box store units. not serviceable, replacement is about 1/2 the cost of the mower new. Once these start slipping they are generally toast. My take after spending quite a bit of time on various mower forums regarding trany issues. That's the scoop, consumer beware , brand name doesn't mean squat in this class of units. There is a company that rebuilds these trannies , with shipping not much less than new. Very sad state of affairs considering the money expended for these.
New one 600 bones that's not a throw away.
There was a la 140 with over 1000 hrs on it still asking 1000.00 bucks. I only had to rebuild a crab in almost 300 hours. However i don't believe one should be pulling a plow. If we all listen to the internet we all would have a 1k tractor.
Uh, no. Peerless Gear has all but disappeared. After Tecumseh came undone, Husqvarna bought them out so I would expect to see them more and more under those machines but only the gear drive tractors which would be quite limited. The LA series along with about 90% of the residential L&G category is rolling on Tuff Torq (a division of Kansaki) transaxles. A few use Dana/Spicer gear drive units but that's a drop in the bucket by comparison.
The T40/K46 transaxles found in so much of today's entry level equipment (with hydrostatic) isn't as "non-serviceable" as you say. It is indeed possible to change the fluid (but not usually with the trans in the machine) and Tuff Torq offers a complete line of spare parts and even upgrades for even these "throw-away" units. Google "k46 upgrade" and there will be more than a couple of videos and forum threads on servicing the t40/k46 transaxles.
Update on the 277. I get there this morning and start on the tractor. Then we find him dead in the bathroom. Once everything is done we could do with the last thing we talk about was fixing that tranny! WE DID FIX IT...................it was the belt.
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