Trying to pick a stove insert

[woodward-anja]

First off, I'm glad this resource exists! Have been reading a lot of threads over the last couple of weeks. Thanks to everyone who's contributed.

I just bought a 1965 rambler, 1350 square feet, little updating done since then (not the best insulation). It currently has an old flagstone fireplace with a ledge in front of it. I'm fine with keeping the facade, etc., but I've been having trouble finding any wood-burning inserts I really like. This will be my first major purchase for the home (well, other than the fun of replacing a septic tank and well). If I'm going to spend $3000-$5000 on something, I want to be pretty enthusiastic about it. This will also be my primary heat source.

I went to four stores and researched all the major brands I could find. Jøtul really impressed me - beautiful stoves, recycled material, great feedback from users. The Kennebec C 450 seemed like a perfect fit... except it's not 2020 approved. Nor are any wood stove inserts from them. I asked the store guys about trying to make a free-standing stove fit somehow (the Oslo F500 V3), but it seems like it'd require enough work to retrofit that I may as well just build a new hearth and chimney.

As far as other brands' inserts, Pacific Energy's T5 Alderlea is my second choice. But, the most resounding thing I can say about the aesthetics is, "I don't hate it."

At this point, even though I enjoy burning with wood (last house was heated with an insert for seven years), I'm kicking around the idea of getting a cheap gas insert for the fireplace. Maybe just a standby to keep the place warm for now? I don't have natural gas hookup and would have to use propane. Eventually I could put a wood-burning hearth elsewhere - maybe on the opposite side of the large open living room - and have the best of both worlds.

I might have to wait another year to afford the Jøtul along with all my other projects, though. I'm feeling a little burnt-out (sorry, couldn't resist) and definitely open to guidance at this point.

Pictures: my layout is similar to this, but instead of a "family room" it's just a foyer, and there are only three bedrooms (big master is on same side of house as living/dining room, as if you combined the two small bedrooms in the picture). The fireplace is on the wall separating the kitchen from the living room. I might put a wood-burning hearth on the wall separating the living room from the master.

Fireplace with ledge. Ledge is 21 inches deep at the opening. Fireplace opening is 34 x 24; the interior is close to 28 x 28 at the back, 16 inches deep at top, 22 inches deep at the bottom.

 

[begreen]

The 24" height is a tight one for some inserts. For example, there is the Quadrafire Expedition II, but it is 23 3/4" tall.

 

[Jason H]

I just had a regency 2700 installed in my place. Really pumps out the heat!
EPA 2020 certified. Has a catalytic reburn system.
Beautiful flames for a few hours, then coals and heat for another ther 4-6 hours.
Canadian made if that makes a difference.

 

[begreen]

I just had a regency 2700 installed in my place. Really pumps out the heat!
EPA 2020 certified. Has a catalytic reburn system.
Beautiful flames for a few hours, then coals and heat for another ther 4-6 hours.
Canadian made if that makes a difference.

Also available as the HI500 if the fancier Hampton version is preferred.

 

[LookingforWarmth]

Also available as the HI500 if the fancier Hampton version is preferred.

I see you recommended the Hi1150, I had this installed late last year, on the recommendation of the shop owner hat we did not need a bigger model. Are there tips for getting more heat from the insert? I find this to not be efficient to warm 800 sq ft.
Thanks!

 

[begreen]

I see you recommended the Hi1150, I had this installed late last year, on the recommendation of the shop owner hat we did not need a bigger model. Are there tips for getting more heat from the insert? I find this to not be efficient to warm 800 sq ft.
Thanks!

This wouldn't be the first time that a stove shop owner was incorrect. The HI1150 has half the fuel capacity of the HI500.
Is the house's total sq ftg 800 sq ft or just the area where the insert is located. Is the insert in an exterior wall fireplace? Did they put in a damper area sealing block off plate?

 

[LookingforWarmth]

It is in an exterior wall fireplace, we fitted into an exsisting fireplace. The "area to heat" is aprox 800 sq ft. I do not understand hte last question? The insert is in my livingroom, and when I work in the diningroom - right near it, I can be cold. The home was built in teh 1930 and is not well insulated. All of these things he knew and he event came ot the house to look and measure, apparently he does this with every insert.

 

[begreen]

It could be that the heat generated by the insert is being convected throughout the house. How many sq ft is the whole house? The other issue is the heat loss of the house, which may be significant if the house is poorly sealed or insulated. That is an area worth investing in.

A block-off plate that seals off the damper area can greatly reduce heat losses from the insert by keeping the fireplace cavity hotter. If there is room, insulating behind the insert can also reduce heat loss to the outside. Here is more information on the topic:

Make a damper sealing block-off plate

How to make a block-off plate A block-off plate is particularly helpful with inserts installed in fireplace on exterior walls with exterior chimneys. Without one, the flue liner (which should be insulated) and the stove will try to heat the mass of masonry that is exposed to the outdoors...

www.hearth.com

FWIW, a local stove shop owner refused to sell us a large stove. He claimed it would heat us out of the house and that I would be complaining. This was dead wrong. We got a stove twice the size he recommended from another, wiser dealer. There have been no regrets. Although our living room is not large, the floorplan is open and the heat convects very nicely throughout the house. There is a physical limit to the fuel capacity of a small stove. It will only put out so much heat. In our big (3 cu ft) stove I can always build a smaller fire if the weather is mild but in cold weather, it gets filled up and does a good job.

 

[begreen]

Another issue could be the fuel itself. How well seasoned is the firewood? When was it split and stacked?

 

[LookingforWarmth]

Another issue could be the fuel itself. How well seasoned is the firewood? When was it split and stacked?

That I do not know- it seems dry and well seasoned. I see many people using much smaller pieces of wood then I had delivered - I am thinking of chopping it up further?

 

[LookingforWarmth]

It could be that the heat generated by the insert is being convected throughout the house. How many sq ft is the whole house? The other issue is the heat loss of the house, which may be significant if the house is poorly sealed or insulated. That is an area worth investing in.

A block-off plate that seals off the damper area can greatly reduce heat losses from the insert by keeping the fireplace cavity hotter. If there is room, insulating behind the insert can also reduce heat loss to the outside. Here is more information on the topic:

Make a damper sealing block-off plate

How to make a block-off plate A block-off plate is particularly helpful with inserts installed in fireplace on exterior walls with exterior chimneys. Without one, the flue liner (which should be insulated) and the stove will try to heat the mass of masonry that is exposed to the outdoors...

www.hearth.com

FWIW, a local stove shop owner refused to sell us a large stove. He claimed it would heat us out of the house and that I would be complaining. This was dead wrong. We got a stove twice the size he recommended from another, wiser dealer. There have been no regrets. Although our living room is not large, the floorplan is open and the heat convects very nicely throughout the house. There is a physical limit to the fuel capacity of a small stove. It will only put out so much heat. In our big (3 cu ft) stove I can always build a smaller fire if the weather is mild but in cold weather, it gets filled up and does a good job.

The,-" You will be way too hot"- was what I was told as well. Very frusturating, since we were willing to pay the higher cost for the bigger unit. There seems ot be a backlog on the units as well- and I wonder if htat was part of his urging us to go smaller.

It's not like exchanging a sweater

 

[Caw]

I see many people using much smaller pieces of wood then I had delivered - I am thinking of chopping it up further?

When I bought a cord of wood to get started I definitely had to split it smaller. A lot of the pieces were massive...I'd split them into 2, sometimes even 3 or 4 pieces.

Big pieces are nice but you can fit a whole lot more wood I when you mix them with smaller pieces. Also a load of smaller pieces will burn hotter/faster so log size is another way you can control your burn.

Everyone will have their preference but I like 3-4" splits for every day use and I save the 5" ones for overnight fires. Anything bigger gets split again. I also prefer square/rectangle pieces whenever possible. I burn a lot of oak which is very easy to get square by hand. I think it's just easier to load.

 

[begreen]

That I do not know- it seems dry and well seasoned. I see many people using much smaller pieces of wood then I had delivered - I am thinking of chopping it up further?

That could be an issue if the wood was bought last summer or fall. Do you have or know someone with a moisture meter? If so, take some of the thicker splits, bring them up to about room temp and resplit them in half. Test the moisture on the freshly exposed face of the wood (not on the ends). In lieu of a meter you could place that fresh wood face up against your cheek. If it feels cool and damp, then the wood probably needs more seasoning.
Poorly seasoned wood puts out a lot less heat into the room so dry wood is very important toward getting top performance from a stove.