Most of you know my story with the Summit, I can only hit 700 once in a while and it seems to like 600 a lot, when it gets really cold I would like to be able to hit the higher temps so should I add 2 or 3 feet to the chimney, my guess is either one will not make it a runaway like some seem to have.
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Maybe you just need to fix that voo doo, doo doo EBT thingy? :lol: Seriously I don't think 2' would do much but 4' might.
Just remember, every 5 feet needs to be supported.
Did you try sticking a piece of single wall in there for testing for a bit?
pen
Did you try sticking a piece of single wall in there for testing for a bit?
pen
No not with the new chimney, I guess I could try that, I already have the roof support bought, just dont understand why most people have stoves (PE) that are hard to keep under 700 when I struggle to get there. It does work much much better with the new chimney though.pen said:
oldspark said:
With my Lopi I would've loved to be able to control the heat below 700. I can't remember, how much space are you heating where you want/need to get over 700? Honestly it sounds like you need a bigger stove or one that is more radiant?
I just want to be able to hit 700 on a regular basis, usually it stalls out around 600 or so, its 2500 sq feet or so but new windows and insulated well, yea i probably bought the wrong stove, did not realize if the stove was in a large open area the radiant is the way to go. IF I could sell this one I might consider a different one, this time I will do much more research.rdust said:
oldspark said:
How does adding length to the chimney, give you higher stove temps? Just curious...
oldspark said:
Gotcha, 2500 is a pretty large area with a 3 cubic foot stove so I can understand the need for more heat. Only a few modern stove a bunch bigger than the Summit though. What is the current height on the new chimney?
21 feet total straight up, other people with the same set up cant keep their stove below 700, I dont get it, it is a new chimney and the stove works so much better than it did before.rdust said:
oldspark said:
Okay...thx. I have very good draft, 16' straight up. Looks like I'm trying to communicate with aliens though. Good luck.
I should add it does a good job until it gets 0 or below and when I have a south wind it struggles, still learning how to burn with it, it seems I get the hottest fires when I make sure the wood is not packed too tight.
I'd be tempted to say the problem lies somewhere else. I've seen 950F stovetop temps with ~12 feet of pipe total. Though the hottest temps don't occur with max draft...for me they actually happen when I get the load burning, then 'throttle back' the air quite a bit. The stove is like a carburetor...you have to get the air just right for it to burn at max efficiency. Too little air and you're making smoke, a cool, sooty burn and sending BTU's up the flue. Too much air and you're just flushing cool air through the firebox and lowering stove temps as well.
You said the house is well insulated, does the stove have an OAK on it? I'm also wondering if something in the surrounding area could be making the difference in the draft when comparing your setup to other members.(trees, altitude etc)
The draft seems fine, I can start fires all day long in the shoulder season with out a problem, I think I could start a fire when it was in the 70's outside, the old chimney kinda did the same thing but the fire is much more active now and I gained at least 100 degrees on the stove top. The house is not too tight for the draw, tried that a long time ago. The fire looks good, blazing secondaries but just likes 600 or so, the temperture of the stove does not take off when I reduce the primary air like others report. I have total control over the fire, for the most part I can stop it dead in its tracks at any temp.
:lol: That has to come up some time.
I always thought if wood was 20% of lower is was good to go-silly me I will go stick some in the oven, how dry ya want me to get it? This oak was 3 years old and well below 20 %, I did hit 700 with it last night, just wish it was dryer cause I was shooting for 1000.Dune said:
Just cause you are so special dune I will post some pictures of the MM stuck in the wood I put in the stove when I get around to it.
oldspark said:
Dude, you don't have to get a "tude". I don't use a MM, but my wood is dry, and I can get all the heat I need from it.
If I had to guess though, my wood may well be under 20% since it is so light.
Of course I have a huge (5 cu.ft) old fangled stove, though it is a gassifier, I know it is much simpler to run than newer stoves.
Sorry I offended thee.
Well I said the oak was three years old in the post before you posted so I thought you were questioning what I posted, I only use the MM for fun as most of my wood is 2 to 3 years old but when I cut some dead stuff or a new type of wood I like to see how fast it dries. As far as a "tude" I thought you had one, my bad if I was wrong, but I will put my wood up against any bodys as far as being dry enough. Cheers and Merry Christmas.Dune said:
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
You might try a manual damper as you might have too much draw if like you said you start easy and have lots of fire. If the draw is too high then too much cool air is coming in like having the door cracked a little. Or does the stove have a leak some where maybe the cleanout door if it has one in the bottom of the stove are you getting the clean out door sealed back good?
Are you loading the splits up to the top close to the secondaries uptop so that their is a smaller area in which to build heat at the top. Battleaxe noticed this and told me about the trick that stacking the wood high makes the stove heat hotter at the top. Plus I found out the hard way that if I stack E/W and stack it high up front towards the door with the back of the stove stacked high that this extra restriction up front kind of holds the heat up there extra good and the stove got away from me one night and I had to stuff aluminum foil in the extra holes plus shut my manual damper completely closed.
I also believe this theory as I have tried loading just a couple pieces of wood and starting a fire with kindling , in this situation there is just too much open space in the stove with just 2 splits and I cant get the stove up to temp. Got to have a full load to make a small burn chamber up at the top of the stove as its much easier to build heat and too maintain heat up there.
Are you loading the splits up to the top close to the secondaries uptop so that their is a smaller area in which to build heat at the top. Battleaxe noticed this and told me about the trick that stacking the wood high makes the stove heat hotter at the top. Plus I found out the hard way that if I stack E/W and stack it high up front towards the door with the back of the stove stacked high that this extra restriction up front kind of holds the heat up there extra good and the stove got away from me one night and I had to stuff aluminum foil in the extra holes plus shut my manual damper completely closed.
I also believe this theory as I have tried loading just a couple pieces of wood and starting a fire with kindling , in this situation there is just too much open space in the stove with just 2 splits and I cant get the stove up to temp. Got to have a full load to make a small burn chamber up at the top of the stove as its much easier to build heat and too maintain heat up there.
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