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Posted By alltherage,
Feb 26, 2012 at 9:32 PM
I think they open at 8 am
Can you temporarily jump the sensor out on the board and see if the blower starts?
how do i jump it?
Not sure you should try that.....talk to Englander first....you don't want to void your warranty.
Putting a jumper wire between the two terminals where the sensor wires go. Not sure if you should do this or not, I'm just throwing it out there. Maybe macman will chime in on this......
i'll talk to them in the AM...have a good night and thanks X 10!
I talked with tech support this morning. Apparently, if you get a "9" in the heat range window when doing the diagnostic check, that's the indicator that the sensor is bad. I never got a 9, so the diagnosis is a bad board. They are sending one out today to me.
That stinks but at least it's still under warranty....let us know how you make out after it's in.....
it certainly stinks...blows my mind that a circuit board can be bad from day 1. It's a confidence buster too in that i'll always wonder how long the new one will last.
tech support is great though and it went well.
Just as an FYI, the control board must be reading the temperature sensor of the stove would not come out of start up and you'd get an E-2 error code. The start up cycle is completed based on time and temperature.
I honestly think you've got to give the unit a little more time to allow the blower to kick on. Remember, these stoves are tested during UL certification with the convection blower jammed and the stove on maximum fire. You burning the unit for an extra five minutes without the blower running isn't going to harm the unit.
But on the other hand, there is the possibility that there is a defect on the control board.
i'd love to let it go for an hour and see what happens. I don't want to create other issues though. The front gets hot to the touch after 15 minutes or so, and i let it go for roughly 30 min. Tech support told me the blower should come on in 13-15 minutes.
tech also said that he'd had this issue with another 10-cpm and it was the board.
You were able to get the blower to run in diagnostic mode though, right? So the blower and the electrical connection from the circuit board to the blower are all functioning properly?
That is correct.
brown truck just came with the new board...will try to get it installed tonight...fingers crossed!
Take your time replacing the board, and double check all the connections before plugging it in. There is a wiring diagram of the control board connections on P. 25 of the manual.
Keep us updated on how it goes.
Be certain the stove is unplugged.
got the new board in...it's pretty easy....and making sure all the wires are correct is the hardest part.
1st try the ignitor wouldn't light....realized the serial connector was undone....fixed that
Got fire and you guessed it....the blower will NOT come on. I tested it in diagnostic mode and it worked.
The sensor is tight on both ends...and the wires are snug.
What's up with this thing?
i'm thinking about just getting another pdvc...i'd rather deal with 2 augers and frequent cleanings...
Contact Mike at Englander....if they can't figure it out, maybe you can swap the stove.
The stove is doing other abnormal things. It goes through startup fine, but when it comes out of startup everything shuts down except the "huffer". I just watched it through an entire cycle, and the fire completely went out, yet the board stayed "on". No pellets were dropping and I had it set at 5-5. The stove was completely silent except for the "huffer".
Incidentally...when I put the new board in, i checked the mode and it was in "3", just as the original board had been. I changed it to "1".
Amidst all the excitement to try it out, i never checked the bottom 3 setttings. So...i just did and they were 1-1-1 from the factory. I just changed them to 3-5-1 so i'll try it again. This won't affect the blower i'm sure...110 degrees isn't that difficult to achieve and it should've come on the first time.
I'm going to PM Mike I guess, and provide my cell number. thanks for the help.
One last thought....you did make sure that all the connections from the daughter card to the main board are correct and on tight? Is the green LED blinking?
yes...off the top of my head i believe the only ones in common are 1 black wire, 1 white wire, and the serial connector. I just ran the stove in 3-5-1 and it works much better in terms of flame etc. The blower still doesn't work. Wish i could figure this out...didn't think i'd still have the same problem. Have a good night all...baggin' it for the evening.
even though it's not giving a code for a bad sensor, it still sounds like a bad temp sensor......something is holding out that blower .......well good luck and keep us posted........