us stove 2000 please help

[Rings]

No matter what I do I can't get the stove pipe over 300. I have 4 and a half foot of single wall then 12 foot of double wall with 4 foot over the peak. So I don't think it is a draft problem but not sure. I can leave the damper open all day and it wont get any hotter. Wood seams pretty dry cut and stacked last fall. I plan to get a moisture meter in the morning to see if that's the problem. Any ideas?

 

[Pallet Pete]

Without more info I would suspect the wood is the culprit. Wood really needs a couple of years to dry properly and dense woods like Oak need even longer.

Pete

 

[firewoodjunky]

If you are in doubt about your wood, pick up a package of kiln dried wood at the local store or use some cut up 2x4's/dimensional lumber (non-PT) and see what that does....

 

[wkpoor]

I have a similar issue (not quite as severe) that has been with me through 5 stoves and over 10yrs of burning including Eco Bricks. Taping up the pipe joints helped a little. Basically I can have a 700 degree stove top and only a 200 degree pipe temp 18" above stove. I have 6' of stove pipe hooked to 35' of 6" class A.

 

[Sprinter]

No matter what I do I can't get the stove pipe over 300. I have 4 and a half foot of single wall then 12 foot of double wall with 4 foot over the peak. So I don't think it is a draft problem but not sure. I can leave the damper open all day and it wont get any hotter. Wood seams pretty dry cut and stacked last fall. I plan to get a moisture meter in the morning to see if that's the problem. Any ideas?

A few more questions: Is this a new problem? How old is the installation? What is the stove top temp when the pipe is at 300? What are you using for a thermometer?

Oh, and what kind of stove?

 

[BobUrban]

Does it matter what the pipe temp is(within reason) if your stove is getting hot - in the 500-700 range and you are burning clean with clear secondary performance? I would think 300 is plenty and just lets you know the heat is staying in the stove and subsequently in your home instead of the alternative and racing up the chimney.

Not that I am an expert by any means but I am thinking if you are getting the performance you want out of the stove you may be doing just fine with the 300 degrees?? I will be following this thread to make sure I am totally off my rocker.

 

[Rings]

The stove is a us stove model 2000 from tractor supply. Its a new install stove top temps of around 450 to 500 area useing IR thermometer. After a moth of burning like this I had about 1/6" of hard creosote not sure if that's a lot or not this is my first wood stove. I have creosote dripping from my cap a little bit to. Kinda lost any info would be greatly appreciated. It was in the 20's last night and it was 90 in the house with about half way on the damper much less than half and it dosent burn good.

 

[Sprinter]

I really don't know about the flue temperature question. Hopefully, some other members with more knowledge about that will come in.

I tend to agree with BobUrban, though. It seems to me that if the stove top is around 500-700° and is heating the room that well, the stove and flue is probably fine. I would sure look into that wood, though. With the creosote buildup and dark, cool-looking fires, that wood sounds very suspect.

Please let us know when you test it with the meter. Split some pieces open and put the probes in parallel with the grain.

 

[Rings]

Well my wood is the problem reading around 28-30%.

 

[DexterDay]

Is the 300* the surface temp of the Flue pipe? Because that would mean 600* internal temp.

The stove top temps you are getting are not bad, but could be higher. if you try closing the intake down, what happens? It sounds crazy, but by reducing the air, the stove will get hotter (Need dry wood).

One other thing to check, the baffle boards up above the burn tubes. Make sure they are in place and the heat is not going straight up the flue.

A family member has one of these and its a pretty solid unit.. IMO But they NEED Dry Wood. The temps and creo lead me to believe its wood related. But if the boards are messed up, and the air is wide open, it may be an easy fix.

(How does your glass look?)

 

[Sprinter]

Well my wood is the problem reading around 28-30%.

What are your local options for dealing with that? Can you find a source for better wood? One thing that is sometimes suggested here for that problem is using "Ecobricks" or other similar manufactured product, either alone or mixed with your wood to get a satisfactory overall moisture content in a load. I've also heard of using pellets in a special burning container, but I'm not sure if that's a good method or not. A ton of those pressed logs or Ecobrick products usually contain (roughly) the same BTU's as a cord of typical cordwood, just for an approximate comparison, but may cost about twice as much. You'd have to check on what's available there.

But I think everyone here would agree that 28 or 30% is not useable as-is and will cause huge problems.

You may want to start a new thread on this forum for alternatives on handling the wood issue.

 

[corey21]

Well my wood is the problem reading around 28-30%.

Sounds like wet wood you may try some kiln dried wood to see the difference.