Used Jotul F500 V1 Oslo questions

[fireisgood]

Hi everyone,

Looks like a wealth of information on here. I'm looking to buy a woodstove for my new house. I burned 24/7 all winter at my last place and want to do the same this coming winter.

I found this used Jotul an hour or so away from me. Anything you can ascertain from the photos? Anything I should look for when I look at it? They're asking $2000 but I'd be offering less than that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Or any other suggestions on dependable stoves. I have a 4000 sq foot house with big ole' radiators all over but prefer to heat with wood. Currently the fireplace I'd be putting this in is a ventless propane unit. It does the job but looks pretty lame and only heats the one room

 

[bunfoolio]

From what I can see the stove looks to be on great shape. In 2013 I bought mine new for 2500. Its been a great stove for me.

 

[kennyp2339]

Currently the fireplace I'd be putting this in is a ventless propane unit. It does the job but looks pretty lame and only heats the one room

Is this a ventless unit that was installed within a masonry fireplace or are you removing the fireplace, building a hearth then running black pipe out the wall or up to a ceiling support box then class a pipe for the rest of the way? and if its a lower ceiling, following alcove instructions from Jotul? Just trying to get depth of the install.
If its a masonry fireplace I wouldn't tuck that unit into the firebox, since theres no blower to push the air out.

 

[fireisgood]

Is this a ventless unit that was installed within a masonry fireplace or are you removing the fireplace, building a hearth then running black pipe out the wall or up to a ceiling support box then class a pipe for the rest of the way? and if its a lower ceiling, following alcove instructions from Jotul? Just trying to get depth of the install.
If its a masonry fireplace I wouldn't tuck that unit into the firebox, since theres no blower to push the air out.

Thanks Kenny for asking the questions I need to be asking...

As far as scale of the install, I'm not sure but I'm attaching some pictures for if you don't mind taking a cursory glance. The guy that's going to install it is an insanely talented contractor and has installed a lot of wood burners so my hope was, regardless of what it requires, he'd be able to pull it off....BUT he hasn't even see it yet so thank you for helping me think about the bigger issues...Here's what I hoped to do...

There's a crappy wood stove in the basement that functions and shares the same chimney as the ventless guy, just one floor down. My goal is to pull that liner out through the chimney at the roof and put it back into the other shaft in the same chimney. Apologies for any incorrect lingo (The house was built in 1784 and the chimney shaft would have serviced the basement, family room and 2nd floor bedroom)

So, could I potentially feed the liner into the other shaft and bring it down vertically through that metal top plate, or is it plausible that I could cut a large hole in the brick and join up the Jøtul with liner that is already there?

Theres plenty of room to fit the unit into the fireplace with the front half protruding maybe 16" into the room, standing on the tile. It will physically fit but are there 100 things I'm not considering?

Thanks so much for taking a look!

 

[fireisgood]

From what I can see the stove looks to be on great shape. In 2013 I bought mine new for 2500. Its been a great stove for me.

Thanks for the info! That's great to know. I was worried about what looked like discoloration but turns out it was all dust

 

[kennyp2339]

Yea lots of questions and I'm certainly not a pro, but first and foremost, older chimney? Dont take a chance and get an insulated liner, you don't know if there's any cracks in the mortar, and chances are you have balloon frame construction, so if there is a chimney fire and extension beyond the chimney it will run straight up the wall and into the attic, you wouldn't know until its to late.
Now flue size, can you fit an insulated liner? that needs to be measured first before proceeding.
The stove needs 16" of hearth in front of the loading door by code, you will also need to read the manual to see what kind of hearth is needed, whether its ember protection only (simple mortared tile) or something of thickness to meet the K factor.
I wouldn't recommend re-using a liner, generally its better to go new, you don't know what kind of mileage that thing has experienced or whether it took a shot during install or uninstall due to possible bends in the chimney
Refer to the manual or seller to get the height of the pipe on the rear exit, then compare to the existing fireplace, remember you want a small pitch back to the stove for and leaky creosote to be re-burnt.

 

[begreen]

There are some ongoing install threads right now. Read up on them to catch up on some key questions and answers. Some other things to watch out for are clearances to the mantel trim and shelf.

One important place to inspect on this stove is the base inside around the grate. This area needs close inspection for cracks, usually radiating from the corners of the grate opening. If they are present you may want to pass on the stove. Repairing requires replacing the base.

 

[ctyankee]

This house is post and beam construction.

 

[fireisgood]

Yea lots of questions and I'm certainly not a pro, but first and foremost, older chimney? Dont take a chance and get an insulated liner, you don't know if there's any cracks in the mortar, and chances are you have balloon frame construction, so if there is a chimney fire and extension beyond the chimney it will run straight up the wall and into the attic, you wouldn't know until its to late.
Now flue size, can you fit an insulated liner? that needs to be measured first before proceeding.
The stove needs 16" of hearth in front of the loading door by code, you will also need to read the manual to see what kind of hearth is needed, whether its ember protection only (simple mortared tile) or something of thickness to meet the K factor.
I wouldn't recommend re-using a liner, generally its better to go new, you don't know what kind of mileage that thing has experienced or whether it took a shot during install or uninstall due to possible bends in the chimney
Refer to the manual or seller to get the height of the pipe on the rear exit, then compare to the existing fireplace, remember you want a small pitch back to the stove for and leaky creosote to be re-burnt.

Thanks Kenny. A lot of great info on here. Much appreciated

 

[fireisgood]

There are some ongoing install threads right now. Read up on them to catch up on some key questions and answers. Some other things to watch out for are clearances to the mantel trim and shelf.

One important place to inspect on this stove is the base inside around the grate. This area needs close inspection for cracks, usually radiating from the corners of the grate opening. If they are present you may want to pass on the stove. Repairing requires replacing the base.

Thanks a lot!

Very helpful