Using A Pump To Empty Water Heater

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velvetfoot

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 5, 2005
10,203
Sand Lake, NY
I have to drain a water heater once a year and it always seems like a slow process, even though, luckily, I have a walk out basement. Anyway, I used it as a good excuse to buy a utility pump, http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-utility-pump-65836.html , and figure I'll be able to use it on something or other in the future, even though I've never had the need for one up to now (and probably not even now, lol).

For those that have done this, anything to watch out for?
 
I do the same thing every spring. I dont use a pump but I find if I disconnect the lines at the top to let it vent, it drains in about 5 minutes. Not sure if your set up allows you to do this but it might save you the money on a pump.
 
It takes a lot longer than 5 minutes for me, but I open some hot water taps and don't fool with the lines.
I thought I'd try a pump.
 
On the rare chance that someone doesn't realize it, the tank needs to be vented before its pumped out. Pulling a suction on a sealed tank is very bad.

The water utility I used to work for would occasionally have a major water line break and depending on the geography and household piping, random customers water tanks would collapse as the flow of water would create a suction. They same thing can happen when there is a major fire nearby or engineering techs(like me) drove around and tested fire hydrants.

They didn't admit fault but at some point they started installing backflow preventers on all water services as in addition to collapsing hot water tanks, sewerage could be sucked into the water supply.

I have a shurflow diaphragm pump for charging my SHW system It comes in handy for a lot of things.
 
Our hw heater is in a basement well with no same level access. Using a garden hose I created a siphon and let ours drain naturally. It took a while but worked pretty well.
 
My rationale is that having a utility pump lying around the house might be a good thing at some point. That's the rationale, anyway.
 
Find a way to add air pressure to the tank. A bicycle pump would do it.
 
I simply open the pressure relief valve, then open the bottom drain valve. Bet it drains damn near as fast as by the time you set that pump up.
No pressure as the relief valve eliminates any pressure.
Don't forget to bleed any air out at the relief valve after filling the tank back up.
 
Yes, yes, yes. I've done all that but now I have the pump and want to try it out. :) Hopefully it'll be a few more weeks before I crank the boiler up and switch to heating up the hot water from the electric.
 
Given my experience with the quality of the Chinese sourced stuff at Harbor Freight I'd save the pump for when you really need it.
It may only work once.

If you just have to use it, shut off the WH supply valve, open the safety vent and hook up the pump to the drain and pump away.
BTW, I usually replace the cheap plastic drain valves with a bronze quarter turn, ball valve. I do this to increase draining rates and to allow minerals that build up to flow out.
 
And make sure to shut your power to it off before any draining is done. I know, I know...everyone should know that.
That's easy to forget. Good think I was replacing the heating elements anyway. ;)
 
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