VC defiant 1945 - longer burn time

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TravisNY

New Member
Nov 14, 2018
45
Clinton Corners, NY
I am extremely pleased with this stove and the heat it puts off. I expect my oil bill to drop substainally now that we have this. Since the install I’ve been messing with the stove trying to figure out how to get the longest burn times out of it but can’t seem to get it down. They claim the max burn time is 12 hours and I can’t seem to get mine to burn more than 6 hours. When I come out in the early morning the stove is still warm to the touch but there isn’t much hot coals (all the wood is burned) left for me to start a fire. Just looking for some advice on how I can make the fire last longer/burn the entire night. I have the damper closed and the air handle turned to the lowest setting and I’m using super dry and seasoned cherry and oak.
 
You should be getting longer burn times out of that beast. Can you repost your question in the 2018-19 VC thread. Lots of knowledge members post there.
 
I agree with diabel. You should be getting double what are reporting. I easily get 12 out of my encore which is a much smaller fire box. I have a 1945 in my cabin and also get 12 plus hours easily out of that one as well. Have you checked all the gaskets? Specificity the griddle gasket and ash pan gasket. How many thermos are you using?
 
Alright I will repost over there. I’m using one thermo but alternate it’s location between the stove pipe and the middle of the griddle. I plan on picking another up tomorrow so I can keep a better eye on both situations. My stove pipe rarely gets over 350 but usually hovers right above 250. I feel like the stove is either full bore or barely burning. Right now I have the air control dialed all the way back (as I usually do)and the griddle temp is 700 (I know that’s at the upper limit). Now that you mention gaskets I’m sure that’s what it is. How difficult is it to do? I literally have zero experience doing it
 
I got 12 hours out of my Blaze King "King". The Secret is to stuff the box full of wood. Really Cram it in with good fire going before you go to bed. Let it get HOT (Not too Hot). Then damper it down (not all at once). Do it after the wood is going to keep going if you damper it down.
 
If your stovetop is 700, you are having a firebox burn. Not a cat burn. And I bet your firebox is engulfed in flame.
 
You came to the right place! We will get you burning right.
 
What is the difference between a firebox and cat burn? I have the damper closed so technically it should be a cat burn, right? Honestly the firebox isn’t engulfed in flames the stove is just putting out a ton of heat, currently it’s a lot of hot embers but the logs do seem to go relatively quick (3 hours-ish). So you guys think it’s gaskets causing this? The guy I bought it from said you can adjust the air control valve to basically make the stove burning hot or just smoldering and he’s an honest guy. Said it sat in his shop unused for 3 years when he sold it to me but never had an issue with it
 
You need to tell us your stove/chimney set up. Every application is different, we need to compare your set up to something similar to make suggestions. Take your time, your stove isn’t going anywhere.

I am heading out for some Italian.

Weekends are great to help with ideas.
 
My stove is a VC Defiant model 1945. Chimney setup is 4’ of 6” single wall before it hits the through-the-roof box. In the box it transitions to triple wall stainless and there’s two 3’ sections. It comes just out of the roof with the first 3’ and then there’s the second 3’ section. Nothing within 10’ so I’m clear with the safety issues
 
My stove is a VC Defiant model 1945. Chimney setup is 4’ of 6” single wall before it hits the through-the-roof box. In the box it transitions to triple wall stainless and there’s two 3’ sections. It comes just out of the roof with the first 3’ and then there’s the second 3’ section. Nothing within 10’ so I’m clear with the safety issues
How is your draft with only 10’ of pipe?
I would suggest getting a cat probe as well. These VC stoves need 3 thermos to burn them efficiently. A cat probe, stove pipe thermometer and stove top thermo. How hot are you getting the griddle top before you close the damper?
 
Also check your door gaskets by doing the dollar bill test. Being take a dollar bill and shut it in the door.m and latch it. If the dollar pulls out easily your gaskets are shot or your latch needs tightening. Do the test in multiple places around the doors. Also, how tight is your ashpan latch? With the ashpan door you have to lift it slightly as you are closing and latching it.
 
Gaskets are shot on ash pan,window glass and damper door. I need to adjust the door latches on both the ash pan and door latch but the set screw on the one for the doors in seized, gonna grab some kroil to see if that will help otherwise I’ll need to replace the latch I think. I would hate to bring my chimney up to 16’, it would stick about 7’ above the roof line and look ridiculous
 
Ash pan, door and griddle gaskets are very simple to replace. Damper door not so easy. How does the damper door move with ease? This was a used stove that you got right.
 
Gaskets are shot on ash pan,window glass and damper door. I need to adjust the door latches on both the ash pan and door latch but the set screw on the one for the doors in seized, gonna grab some kroil to see if that will help otherwise I’ll need to replace the latch I think. I would hate to bring my chimney up to 16’, it would stick about 7’ above the roof line and look ridiculous
Try and hit that set screw a few times with pb blaster and see if you can free it up. Replacing those gaskets is going to make a world of difference. While you are in the process of replacing said gaskets you might as well do the griddle top. A lot of use regular gasket for this instead of the wire mesh. Just seems to seal better. My total chimney length is about 15’. 7’ of double wall inside and 8’ of double wall insulated chimney pipe. It sticks above the roof about 6’. I don’t think it looks that bad. I would rather have a properly breathing stove than care about aesthetics.
 
You will need to open up the stove and see the condition of the cat and the refractory box. These items if need be replaced can be very costly, often more than what one paid for the actual used stove.

What is the total area you are trying to heat?
 
Is the stove useable if the cat and refractory box need to be replaced? Also, I see this post was moved to prior 1993 threads. I thought this stove was 2002 or newer based off my research. It’s in what I would consider good used shape and I feel like I got it for a good price
 
Is the stove useable if the cat and refractory box need to be replaced? Also, I see this post was moved to prior 1993 threads. I thought this stove was 2002 or newer based off my research. It’s in what I would consider good used shape and I feel like I got it for a good price


Not sure why it was moved, I noticed that too.

Maybe mods can move this to the VC ongoing thread?
 
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I highly stress a cat probe thermometer weather it’s a digital or other wise you need one.