VC Large Winterwarm - removing the throat plates

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Hi Wolfmans

I place the tip of the probe just left of the ball on the damper control when it's in the closed position. My door gaskets are weak as well, and I`ll be replacing them shortly.

Jonathan
 
Hi Wolfmans,

Well, you got it out, and that's all that's important! I tried the wiggling and prying, but didn't want to risk damaging the throat plates. It helps once you can see how the clip and plates together when you have the clip off. Perhaps I'll try this method again the next time I inspect the cat.

When I had the damper open, there was just enough room for me to slide my un-gloved finger through and around the back where the retaining nut was, and just enough room to slide down the needle nose vice grips to capture it.

Your cat looks about the same condition as mine, except your steel casing isn't as deformed as mine is. Since I could get it to sit in the refractory chamber and completely close the the refractory chamber door, I put it back in to give it a spin. The sweeps were in last week, and they inspected the flue. They said that there wasn't enough buildup to warrant a cleaning, and that they'd be back in the spring, so, the cat must have been working.

Once the stove is cruising with a good bed of coals, when I stop the air down to near fully closed and engage the cat, I get about 160F coming out of the top vent ( measured with a meat thermometer, about 3" away from the exhaust port ). This is with the firebox about half full with fuel. I'd be interested to hear what you get under similar operating conditions.

Jonathan

Have you guys had any issues on large winter warm insert damper getting stuck when you open or close? Yes I have some play in linkage and opening & closing. And at times when I open damper It gets stuck by hitting the pin that looks like a cotter pin. I fear it may come all the way out and then the whole damper lever rod collapses. My wife also put a new gasket on the door and we noticed you could run a dollar on top right upper hand corner above door latch. We don't know if the gap was always there or something changed but maybe this summer we can add a different size gasket to that section.
 
I fear it may come all the way out and then the whole damper lever rod collapses.

Chatting online with one of the original moderators here the other day and he said he had exactly that happen in his WWL in mid burn.
 
Thanks, If you have his username, Please send me his username and I would like to ask him how he solved the issue.

Here is what happened:

"Last year the bypass lever came completely loose. I had a massive blaze going and couldn't get it shut for quite a while. Finally managed to close it manually with a poker but nearly burned up a pair of welding gloves and was wondering if I was going to be calling 911 for the fire department or the local hospital burn unit for my hands. Luckily, when things cooled down, I noticed a bolt needed tightening. I was lucky it didn't come all the way out and fall into an unreachable void below it."
 
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