5 yo VC Resolute Acclaim stove. Every year I start with a smoothly operating by-pass damper. After a few months, it starts sticking, to the point where it won't open or close without opening the griddle and pushing/pulling it. I'm afraid I'm going to bend the damper rod. The only solution I've found is to let the stove cool, remove the flue cover, steel wool the damper ramp and rod, and rub graphite powder on them, which buys me another month. Anyone else have this type of problem?
VC Resolute Acclaim Damper Sticking
- Thread starter bilvihur
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That's a much older VC model than 5 years. Many of us New Englanders have gone thru the pain of maintaining VC stoves.....a real PITA sometimes as you'll find tales of woe online.
Anyhow, there is a tricky adjustment screw "system" to ease the damper rod and 'ramp' IF the damper is not warped. Check the Resolute manual for the exact instructions since it's not the same for all pre-2000 era VC stoves. If the damper is warped or the rod is bent, you will need a new kit to rebuild. Check out Woodman's in NH for parts.
Do-able but another PITA even if you are handy.
One guy here completely tore apart and rebuilt an Encore ...with excellent pics.Check it out.
It was selling 4 yrs ago according to this blog.
(broken link removed)
AFAIK the Resolute Acclaim is still for sale in some locations. Inventory clearance?
(broken link removed to https://www.lehmans.com/p-4419-vermont-castings-resolute-acclaim-wood-heat-stove.aspx?show=all)
Manual here is dated 4/2011
http://www.mainecoaststove.com/assets/pdf/2000893_Resolute_Acclaim_25.pdf
(broken link removed)
AFAIK the Resolute Acclaim is still for sale in some locations. Inventory clearance?
(broken link removed to https://www.lehmans.com/p-4419-vermont-castings-resolute-acclaim-wood-heat-stove.aspx?show=all)
Manual here is dated 4/2011
http://www.mainecoaststove.com/assets/pdf/2000893_Resolute_Acclaim_25.pdf
Look over BG's manual.
Sorry , the adjustment is an ALLEN wrench, not a "screw". Can be fussy.
The Acclaim was one of later VC's very troublesome products. Because of problems with higher temps normal in colder areas, one of the later VC owners, not the original, sent northern Acclaims down south. Not exactly ethical.
According to BG's research, those Resolute Acclaims must have been hidden away in a warehouse in the woods. Closeouts indeed.
Sorry , the adjustment is an ALLEN wrench, not a "screw". Can be fussy.
The Acclaim was one of later VC's very troublesome products. Because of problems with higher temps normal in colder areas, one of the later VC owners, not the original, sent northern Acclaims down south. Not exactly ethical.
According to BG's research, those Resolute Acclaims must have been hidden away in a warehouse in the woods. Closeouts indeed.
No creosote build-up as far as I can see. I'll try adjusting the Allen screw to lessen the ramp-rod resistance.
One of the common wear items in an Acclaim is the upper fireback. 5 years is a little early for that to be happening, and the symptoms don't quite match up, but it's really pretty simple in there, not too many things that could be wrong. BTW, that damper rod is 3/8" stainless and not likely to bend, even if you WANTED it to.
Wonder how much wood you burn in a typical season?
Wonder how much wood you burn in a typical season?
The acclaim is at least a 20 year old model that may have been new, but the OP didn't say how old it is, or whether it was used when he got it.
Also, SS is bendable and deformable ( a word ? ), not as strong as a steel alloy. Don't know for sure if the rod is SS, but doubtful since SS doesn't do as well as steel(s) in high temps and would have been more bucks for VC Possibilities.
In any case adjusting the damper ass'y is the best bet to try first.
I bought it new, and use it as a secondary heat source. Probably 1 1/2 - 2 cords a winter. It's supposed to be sub-zero over the weekend here, so I'll wait to try the adjustment.
OP said - 5 yo VC Resolute Acclaim stove - at the beginning of the first post.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
It was in production. The manual posted was dated 2011. The OP's stove is 5 yrs old. What's the mystery?
In nearly 30 years of servicing these things, I've not run across this particular issue. Acclaim dampers can be fussy on occasion, but I've never had a damper rod fail for example. Adjustment should help, but I'm unclear why the cleaning/ lubrication is necessary on a regular basis. It would suggest build up of some kind perhaps? But not creosote apparently. Do you burn anything but wood or could there be something corrosive on the wood itself or whatever kindling you use? I love a mystery, this one has me stumped.
Overburning can warp the damper in most VC rod & damper stoves. You're right that there should be no need for that "clean and lube" routine.
I'll put money on high heat. That ass'y gets most of the flame open and shut.
Not to be disagreeable, but the upper fireback ( or in the case of Intrepid 2's and some Defiants the damper housing) is almost always the culprit. I've reused many dampers as they DON'T often get warped as the rest of the assembly does.But again, I'd be surprised if either were a problem after only like 10 cords or less. Very puzzling. I'm now thinking visit a different forum, like exorcism.com. Some kind of evil demon maybe?
Just an update: With the stove cooled, I tried working the bypass damper back and forth from within the firebox, and the damper rod completely disengaged. It's definitely binding somewhere around the hinge tangs. 
I'll have to get by without using the damper until I can disassemble it and take a better look. Thanks for the replies.
I'll have to get by without using the damper until I can disassemble it and take a better look. Thanks for the replies.Took the stove apart for spring cleaning. Took the damper plate out and looked for any signs of warping - none found. Put it all back together after steel brushing and graphiting damper rod, ramp, and hinge ears. Still binding! Then I saw the problem. On one side the damper ear was sliding 1/4" backward before rotating in the hinge when the damper rod was engaged. The tab making up that hinge was practically straight, whereas the tab on the good hinge had a 30 degree bend preventing the ear from sliding. After bending the tab and reinstalling, the damper assembly works smoothly. I won't know for sure until I fire it up in the Fall, but I'm hopeful this fixes my problem.
Well maybe, but the damper tabs are supposed to be straight in that perfect world we hear so much about. I can't help but wonder if perhaps the part of the damper that engages the tab, the short rod-like protrusions, may need to be smoothed off? If there were excess iron left from casting it MAY cause that kind of issue. I'm concerned that while bending the tabs may work right now, that mid-season it may go south. I've certainly seen bent tabs, but they're not really ideal that's all.
The "rod-like" ears were pretty smooth to begin with, but I brushed them down and graphited them anyway. I also brushed out the hinge. Really, the only thing that seemed to make a difference was bending the tab to prevent the ear from sliding. Still won't know for sure until it gets lit next season.
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