Venting a pellet stove in log home

[mdenher]

Hi. Would this be a good spot to post for help on determining the venting option for a pellet stove in my log home?

 

[begreen]

Moved to the pellet stove forum.

The constraints for a log home are the same as for a stick-built home. Clearances to combustibles must be honored for the stove and for the stove exhaust piping per manufacturers' tested requirements.

 

[mdenher]

I wish to place my pellet stove in a corner. I have a 12/12 pitch metal roof and experience fairly heave snow loads. I am reluctant to have my venting be on the lower end of the roof for multiple reasons. Primarily for aesthetic reasons I do not want a 4-6 foot pipe extended out of the roof, and due to snow load it would require a snow/ice diverter (cricket) and supper for that length of pipe. What I wish to do if possible is vent outside to the front of my log home and have the pipe bend and follow the roof line under the log purlins and then bend vertical to push through the ceiling. This would allow for the pipe to vent high on the roof with less snow load issues and hopefully reduce the length of the pipe on the roof. I am considering also running the pipe (black)exposed on the inside of the home suspended from th log purlins as an option as well. I hope the pictures give an idea of what I am wanting to do if it is possible. I the picture outside the home, the stove would be located in the right hand corner, the inside view would be the left hand corner after removal of the zero vent propane heater that is in place now. Thank you for your input of the feasibility of the install.

 

[johneh]

Take it up the inside with black pipe (paint it yourself)
turn and out the wall to a termination pipe.
pellets stoves do not need a natural draft to work
See stove instructions for type and length of chimnies needed
examples from an enviro manual page 20

https://enviro.com/custom_content/docs/manuals/C-14595%20Instruction%20EF3%20Domestic%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

 

[mdenher]

Take it up the inside with black pipe (paint it yourself)
turn and out the wall to a termination pipe.
pellets stoves do not need a natural draft to work
See stove instructions for type and length of chimnies needed
examples from an enviro manual page 20

https://enviro.com/custom_content/docs/manuals/C-14595%20Instruction%20EF3%20Domestic%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

Thank you for the attachment and advice. I am justifiably concerned about pushing out thru the wall as it is log. These so called "wall thimble" push thru options are not very aesthetic and that is of importance. However it may become my only option as so far HVAC installers want to do the quick easy thru the wall installations and do not want to go thru the roof. Not like there would be another option if I were to do a wood stove instead of a pellet. I understand now that draft length above the roof is not an issue but if I can't find anyone willing and able to do that for me then thru the wall is my only option. I must wish there was a kit designed around a log home install that looked good.

 

[johneh]

I also have a log home well, to be honest
it is a 175-year-old hand squared cedar timber home
The cover for the thimble I had made for me by my local
blacksmith to match the wall

 

[Washed-Up]

The only other way to do it aside from roof or cutting into a log would be to sacrifice a window by framing it in and putting the thimble through the frame

 

[bogieb]

So honestly, the thimble can't look worse than the satellite sitting there (my opinion only). The thimble is small enough, and the nature of log cabin lines, as well as your beautiful windows and deck, that after a few days, you won't even notice it being there unless you are really looking for it.

You can buy thimbles in black or you can paint the thimble with high temp paint I painted the exterior side of mine hunter green while the inside is black.

 

[mdenher]

Still slowly moving toward getting my Napoleon pellet stove installed. Having issues finding a HVAC contractor to commit a visit or give a bid. My cabin is in a mountain community. With all the summer heat all focus is on AC and pushing back on any heating type of work. I have be wanting to remove my existing zero vent propane stove that I refuse to use because of more than one occasion feeling light headed while up in the loft while it was running and build a new hearth and media center surround for this stove install but without knowing exactly how and where the vents will be placed that project is at a stand still. Is it possible for home owner weekend warrior to install a stove as long as I following codes and have it permitted and inspected or is it only HVAC folks that can do it? Does that make it an insurance nightmare? Also the Napoleon stove I am going to use came out of a house flip (the stove was tested by me before buying) and the vent pipe exiting the stove turns down. How much lower can the vent pipe be than the exit pipe of the stove? Is it possible to vent down through floor and exit horizontally? My cabin a 8" sub flooring between the foundation wall and logs. Has anyone ever installed the fresh air return to draw from a crawl space.

 

[articcatbill]

When I did an install myself at our cabin the insurance company had me complete a form and submit some pictures of the install. Basically had to attest that I followed all the manufacturers instructions and clearances for the install. I was thinking it would be a big issue with them, but I followed everything closely and submitted the paperwork and it was approved no issues at all.

At our home I had purchased a new stove and had it installed by the company that sold me the stove. My insurance company at home didn't require anything to be submitted since it was professionally installed.

 

[johneh]

OAK picking up from the crawl space OK
Smoke pipe going down is a no no
power goes out you will know every air leak in that stove
smoke city and it will happen before your backup can kick in

 

[bogieb]

Yeah, you need to turn that exhaust so it goes up. Will be a pain to get the adhesive out, but definitely needs to be done.

 

[mdenher]

This project has been put on the back burner more times than I care to admit. However I just bought a pallet of pellets sooooo it is going to be started here very soon. I removed the vent pipe elbow that was attached to the flu pipe because it was venting down. Not sure how it passed inspection that way where the stove was removed from but I will be exiting horizontally. You will see the attach photo of the cleaned exit flu which is 3" solid pipe, however I did not measure the OD. I am in the mountains over 3000' elevation and will be using 4" vent pipe. Is there an adapter specifically made to transition from the flu pipe to 4" vent pipe? The prior owner had (IMHO) a really bastardized transition from the flu to 4" elbow (see pic). My horizontal run from the stove through the wall will be under 3', the outside vertical just under 4' and elbow with appx 22" under the roof overhang to the vent. So the overall run will be less than 10' Would it be better to go 3" through the wall and 4" for the outside vent pipe? Most of the current vent pipe I have is 4" DuraVent and is in good shape so I would like to reuse what I can outside. The stove manufacture states I can use 3" or 4". The other question I have is the stove manufacturer gives a clearance minimum of 2" from the stove corners to any "combustible" surface. I am installing this in a corner and there will be ample clearance at the corners. The manual does not indicate that a fire barrier be installed on the walls. This is my first pellet stove experience. Do I need the fire barrier (i.e stone, brick, or tile) on the wall behind the pellet stove? The hearth is a no brainer. The walls are log. Appreciate your input.

 

[begreen]

No barrier needed as long as the clearances for the stove are honored. 90% of the heat is blown out the front by the convection fan.

 

[johneh]

I believe that you need 24 in below eve for outlet termination
At least on Enviro stoves you do . check your manual

 

[Washed-Up]

4” let’s the stove breathe easier but not absolutely necessary, I’m at 5000ft and use 3”, it was cheaper and more readily available at the time. Happy to see you’re getting it figured out.

 

[mtnbiker727]

You might want more clearance on the sides if you ever need to get behind the stove, unless it's light enough to slide.

Duravent makes a bunch of different kinds of appliance adapters, the hard part is knowing which one fits correctly onto the back of your stove. Once you figure out which one you need, you can find them on Ebay for a pretty decent price.

Also, if you don't already have one, you should get a cleanout T for where the horizontal meets the vertical so you can more easily clean the pipe.

 

[mdenher]

I believe that you need 24 in below eve for outlet termination
At least on Enviro stoves you do . check your manual

The pic of the vent pipe is deceiving. That is just laying up against the wall. The vent will actually extend just beyond the roof drip edge.

 

[mdenher]

You might want more clearance on the sides if you ever need to get behind the stove, unless it's light enough to slide.

Duravent makes a bunch of different kinds of appliance adapters, the hard part is knowing which one fits correctly onto the back of your stove. Once you figure out which one you need, you can find them on Ebay for a pretty decent price.

Also, if you don't already have one, you should get a cleanout T for where the horizontal meets the vertical so you can more easily clean the pipe.

Thanks. Have the cleanout T in 4" Stove is not light but should have ample clearance on the sides.

 

[mdenher]

Anyone have a nice idea for a hearth build for my free standing pellet stove? Pics of what you have done would be great if you are willing to share.

 

[mdenher]

Hy gang. Still here and have made some inside progress. I have the hearth/mantle built and stove in place. going thru a bit of anxiety about cutting into the log wall to vent to outside but that will occur later this summer once finished with a retaining wall project. My fresh air vent goes through the floor to the crawl space.

 

[blades]

looking good, hard part will be boring that 6" or so hole through the wall but not as tough as going through a poured concrete wall that is 8" thick. I have a six inch dia. spur bit just the ticket for what you need to do. Plumbers use these all the time in various sizes to pass the piping through . These are not a hole saw as they do not cut a plug. A. lot faster and easier than drilling as series of small holes around a dia. and then using a Saws All to cut through the splines left behind - another option.