Last winter, the 4th year I've had my Vermont Castings Dauntless, I had a problem keeping the damper door closed.
I'd close the damper using the lever on the left side of the stove (photo 1), and the damper would open itself some time later.
My mid-winter fix was to add weight to the lever handle.
This summer I want to make a proper fix. My stove dealer said I need to use the damper Adjusting Screw (photo 2 is from the operating manual).
My adjusting screw had a hex head as in the drawing; it doesn't accept an Allen wrench as described in the text.
I loosened the lock nut but couldn't turn the adjusting screw, or "pressure screw."
I applied penetrating oil over a couple of days but it wouldn't budge.
After I snapped off the hex head, I used a torch to loosen the screw and tried to turn it by gripping the stub with a lockwrench.
Of course I snapped off the stub.
I drilled a hole in the screw and used a screw extractor after applying more penetrating oil and heat, to no avail.
Current state of the damper plate, seen from inside the stove = photo 3.
Today I removed the stovepipe to see what's behind the damper plate (or door).
Photo 4 is taken from the rear of the stove looking down and towards the front of the stove.
They show a "damper rod" that is connected to the damper lever.
When I close the damper, the rod moves upwards to engage a tab and clicks into place, locking the damper plate closed.
If I'd been able to turn the adjusting screw I believe it would have pushed against the tab so it would engage the rod more firmly.
My question:
> Should I keep trying to remove the broken adjusting screw, or should I try to bend the tab instead?
There's about 1/4 inch of the broken screw pushing against the tab, which is called Damper Adjuster part # SRV2-00-586201.
(See photo 5.)
I won't be able to get much of a grip on the stub of the screw.
The tab is fairly thick... maybe I can get a shim in there if I can't bend it.
I'd close the damper using the lever on the left side of the stove (photo 1), and the damper would open itself some time later.
My mid-winter fix was to add weight to the lever handle.
This summer I want to make a proper fix. My stove dealer said I need to use the damper Adjusting Screw (photo 2 is from the operating manual).
My adjusting screw had a hex head as in the drawing; it doesn't accept an Allen wrench as described in the text.
I loosened the lock nut but couldn't turn the adjusting screw, or "pressure screw."
I applied penetrating oil over a couple of days but it wouldn't budge.
After I snapped off the hex head, I used a torch to loosen the screw and tried to turn it by gripping the stub with a lockwrench.
Of course I snapped off the stub.
I drilled a hole in the screw and used a screw extractor after applying more penetrating oil and heat, to no avail.
Current state of the damper plate, seen from inside the stove = photo 3.
Today I removed the stovepipe to see what's behind the damper plate (or door).
Photo 4 is taken from the rear of the stove looking down and towards the front of the stove.
They show a "damper rod" that is connected to the damper lever.
When I close the damper, the rod moves upwards to engage a tab and clicks into place, locking the damper plate closed.
If I'd been able to turn the adjusting screw I believe it would have pushed against the tab so it would engage the rod more firmly.
My question:
> Should I keep trying to remove the broken adjusting screw, or should I try to bend the tab instead?There's about 1/4 inch of the broken screw pushing against the tab, which is called Damper Adjuster part # SRV2-00-586201.
(See photo 5.)
I won't be able to get much of a grip on the stub of the screw.
The tab is fairly thick... maybe I can get a shim in there if I can't bend it.