Vertical through roof, or 45 along gabled ceiling, and then out?

[Greg egg]

We bought all the gear for a vertical chimney install for a Vermont Castings Intrepid II woodstove.

We have a snow splitter wedge and telescoping stabilizer arms and could add snow guards higher on the standing seam roof, but we are still having second thoughts about penetrating the roof at the low side because of the potential of losing the chimney in a snow event. We have a snow splitter wedge and telescoping stabilizer arms and could add snow guards higher on the standing seam roof.

Alternately, we could go vertical through ceiling, then switch to Class A, 45 to hug gabled ceiling of bedroom and 45 again to penetrate roof closer to ridge.

Without moving stove to center of house (not an option), which of these options is better? Is this enough info?

 

[stoveliker]

I don't believe class A 45s exist.
Best would be to.offset the penetration closer to the ridge by 45ing already inside the home.

 

[GLWHope]

We did a recent install in the Adirondacks and the pipe was placed low and the snow splitter was placed high enough to protect both pipe and stabilizer arms. At first it looked wrong but getting a good view via a drone video it makes perfect sense putting splitter up towards ridge to protect both arms and pipe.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

We did a recent install in the Adirondacks and the pipe was placed low and the snow splitter was placed high enough to protect both pipe and stabilizer arms. At first it looked wrong but getting a good view via a drone video it makes perfect sense putting splitter up towards ridge to protect both arms and pipe.

pic?

 

[gthomas785]

There are no 45s for class A bit you can get 30 or 60 degree elbows. If you have room to do the 30 degree offset, I would vote for that for 3 reasons. One the chimney is less likely to be damaged by snow, two you'll have a shorter section of exposed pipe above the roof, and three, the higher up your penetration is, the less damage it'll cause if it leaks. That last one is not really relevant if you do a proper job but with any penetration there's always a slight risk of it leaking.
If you are coming up too close to the eave you won't be able to use the 30 degree elbows and would have to offset with 60s. That's less ideal because the nearly horizontal pipe will not draft as well.

Edit: missed that you are trying to offset through a finished space. That makes it more complicated and probably not feasible depending on the layout

 

[Greg egg]

We did a recent install in the Adirondacks and the pipe was placed low and the snow splitter was placed high enough to protect both pipe and stabilizer arms. At first it looked wrong but getting a good view via a drone video it makes perfect sense putting splitter up towards ridge to protect both arms and pipe.

I have thought about something like this, but not in the mood to be caught experimenting . I would also love to see your photos.

 

[Greg egg]

I don't believe class A 45s exist.
Best would be to.offset the penetration closer to the ridge by 45ing already inside the home.

30s and 15s exist, so a 45 would actually be a longer sweep (which is better in plumbing, so probably better for exhaust, too?)

I think redirecting the stovepipe portion in the main living space would be too disruptive to both the living room and the upstairs bedroom.

 

[Greg egg]

There are no 45s for class A bit you can get 30 or 60 degree elbows. If you have room to do the 30 degree offset, I would vote for that for 3 reasons. One the chimney is less likely to be damaged by snow, two you'll have a shorter section of exposed pipe above the roof, and three, the higher up your penetration is, the less damage it'll cause if it leaks. That last one is not really relevant if you do a proper job but with any penetration there's always a slight risk of it leaking.
If you are coming up too close to the eave you won't be able to use the 30 degree elbows and would have to offset with 60s. That's less ideal because the nearly horizontal pipe will not draft as well.

Edit: missed that you are trying to offset through a finished space. That makes it more complicated and probably not feasible depending on the layout

The brand of pipe we're using does sell 30s and 15s, with the first sweep being hidden behind a knee wall, and the upper sweep hidden inside the hung ceiling below the peak of the gable.

I think I could get the visible class A to be limited to a straight section that mirrors the 12/12 pitch.

Of all the good reasons you mentioned, I do like the shorter exposed chimney...

 

[gthomas785]

The brand of pipe we're using does sell 30s and 15s, with the first sweep being hidden behind a knee wall, and the upper sweep hidden inside the hung ceiling below the peak of the gable.

I think I could get the visible class A to be limited to a straight section that mirrors the 12/12 pitch.

Of all the good reasons you mentioned, I do like the shorter exposed chimney...

You're right I was thinking of 15s and 30s but wrote 30 and 60 by mistake. 60 degrees would be a crazy bend.

 

[gthomas785]

Just be aware also you need to keep a 2" clearance to combustibles around the class A. In a living space, how do you guarantee that nobody will push furniture up against it, drape clothing over it, etc.? The usual way is to box it in with a chase.