VOGELZANG 5770 SLIMLINE PELLET STOVE (NOT GETTING TOO HOT)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Yes i know where its is, but we call that downstate here ;) If your fuse was blown you would have no power at all.
 
Seems like E2 and E4 have been mixed up on my stove. So ignite failure which sounds right because it goes through the entire startup sequence without tripping the temperature switch because it didn’t ignite. Is your igniter bad? You can test it with a multimeter or do the board test. Read a little ways down this page.

 
Yes i know where its is, but we call that downstate here
Hey, to folks from the City, everything north of Yonkers is upstate, lol! I used to live in the mid-Hudson region, which is tolerably upstate, but youse guys are really upstate!
 
Hey, to folks from the City, everything north of Yonkers is upstate, lol! I used to live in the mid-Hudson region, which is tolerably upstate, but youse guys are really upstate!
Your definitely right about that, you's are really upstate lol, and don't even consider my area upstate, or country like you mentioned. To us your area is west bumble f**k new York, and I'm in West bumble f**k NY Lol
 
Your definitely right about that, you's are really upstate lol, and don't even consider my area upstate, or country like you mentioned. To us your area is west bumble f**k new York, and I'm in West bumble f**k NY Lol
I know I have to find my multimeter, but in the mean time do you think I should order the air switch, even though it clicks as you've stated it could be the components inside correct ? Idk if I should start off with that first
 
If you bypass/jumper the air(vacuum) switch and stove runs,then you "might" need a switch.Does the stove run at all,now? The E2 code is set by the sensing of the air switch.Saw an interesting video on youtube about this stove, the guy cleaning it,when cleaning the stove side openings,also runs his stove flue brush up the sides of the openings,and also across and down,from inside the firebox.He took before and after temperature readings,and was a huge difference.
 
If you bypass/jumper the air(vacuum) switch and stove runs,then you "might" need a switch.Does the stove run at all,now? The E2 code is set by the sensing of the air switch.Saw an interesting video on youtube about this stove, the guy cleaning it,when cleaning the stove side openings,also runs his stove flue brush up the sides of the openings,and also across and down,from inside the firebox.He took before and after temperature readings,and was a huge difference.
Ok,yes the stove runs for about a minute, then shuts down with E2 flashing, as far as the cleaning goes, I gently tap both chambers to get the excess ash out, then I take my ash vac and send the hose up, then after that I'll take a regular shop vac which is way more powerful and do the same thing. Then I clean all of the fans, anything I see with dust, and clean them with a paint brush, then shop vac it, because I know that accumulated dust can stop thing from turning because of the weight. I also do that to the upper inside of the stove as well as the fire box, etc. I'll search for that video, and also check everything outside again. It might be the simplest thing that im over looking...
 
OK,I will try,again.Unplug stove.Install a jumper,connecting the 2 wires together,electrically.Plug stove in.Try and start. If it does not,and comes up with E2,then, think about this---the stove uses the signal from those 2 wires to determine an E2 error.One of those wires is grounded,the other is power from the user panel.Both at the user panel.So,if it is jumpered,then there must be a problem with the wiring/connections,or control panel or control board have died,or have issues, unless you have caused a different issue,and the code is false.
 
Any chance the snap switch you replaced,is the wrong one?Any chance you knocked off/dislodged any wiring connectors? Just pointing out obvious things we have seen happen.
 
Any chance the snap switch you replaced,is the wrong one?Any chance you knocked off/dislodged any wiring connectors? Just pointing out obvious things we have seen happen.
As far as it being a different themal disc, no it's exactly the same numbers, and as far as the temperature switch, right above the air switch, I didn't install that yet. I don't believe Ive dislodged anything because on Thanksgiving it was running so clean and hot... Then yesterday went to put it on and that's when the code came up. So in between the time I shut it on Thanksgiving night and yesterday nothing was touched at all till the problem arose with the E2 code. Thanks
 
OK,I will try,again.Unplug stove.Install a jumper,connecting the 2 wires together,electrically.Plug stove in.Try and start. If it does not,and comes up with E2,then, think about this---the stove uses the signal from those 2 wires to determine an E2 error.One of those wires is grounded,the other is power from the user panel.Both at the user panel.So,if it is jumpered,then there must be a problem with the wiring/connections,or control panel or control board have died,or have issues, unless you have caused a different issue,and the code is false.
I've found some alligator clips and want to just get everything straight about jumping the switches, so am I going to take the connectors off off the air switch and connect directly to the temp switch, want to make sure thanks
 
I've found some alligator clips and want to just get everything straight about jumping the switches, so am I going to take the connectors off off the air switch and connect directly to the temp switch, want to make sure thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20201128_124616.jpg
    20201128_124616.jpg
    124 KB · Views: 134
  • 20201128_124604.jpg
    20201128_124604.jpg
    141.5 KB · Views: 133
ok we all get on the same page here, going in circles makes my head hurt. when we talk about a jumper, what we are doing is taking the suspected component out of the power loop. so if you took 2 wires off the vac switch (air switch) and hooked the wires together (not switch terminals) with the jumper and the stove does not start up and run then your vac switch is not the problem(at this point) but with the vac switch out of the loop the problem is coming from the control board, it is not sending power through the wires to continue the start cycle. so we need to know if there is voltage at the wires you pull off the vac switch. and if there is power going to the igniter. do all these wire changes with the stove unplugged
 
Ok sorry for the confusion, but the 9nly thing that im wondering is when I jump the air switch (vac switch) now the unit stays on and doesn't give me an error code at least for the minutes I keep it on for, leading me to believe it's the air switch, but I'll definitely know better after my company leaves is I'll find the multimeter and be able to work the right way, and I'm hoping that it's something small and not the circuit board or I'm not sure if you mean the user control panel. I know my terminology is not right, I just need to familiarize myself with the parts more. Thanks, sorry for the headache
 
Is it firing up?
 
did the combustion motor (exhaust) ever come on during the start ups? is the button popped on the (snap disc, thermodisc, High limit switch)?
 
The button did not pop out and it looks and feels just the same as the extra new one I have and I just installed it while I was down there. The combustion blower did not come on either