Was my stove installed correctly?

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If you 11" your good... thats a good stove for tight clearances. Sorry, what I meant was take the stove off and pull the stone forward at the same time you fix everything. But im guessing you would rather be in the corner, but id rather no offset. If necessary, you can slide laminate flooring under the stone with use of a wedge and pull it forward. You can always wait until your first major chimney cleaning to fix or setup differently.
I'm a little over 10" from the wall. I will consider moving it out. I've felt the wall and it's very warm but I can keep my hand on it no problem. Thanks for your awesome suggestions.
 
Unfortunately the manual does not specify minimum chimney height and we have not seen this stove before on Hearth.com. At least not to my recollection. It might be good to call Wolf Steel tech support and ask what is the minimum chimney height they recommend. Typically it is 15' from stove top to chimney cap, but some stoves specify less.
Thank you for looking into it. I will give them a call.
 
I'm a little over 10" from the wall. I will consider moving it out. I've felt the wall and it's very warm but I can keep my hand on it no problem. Thanks for your awesome suggestions.
If you can keep your hand on it, that's fine. Drywall is safe up to around 160º.
 
Yup, that's a pretty hack install as far as the stovepipe and chimney...and what you paid for is a grade A pro install!
Those stickers will come off when hot...literally when the pipe is hot...may or may not leave residue behind...goo gone will take care of that though (when cool)...if it leaves a mark in the paint hi temp black is very easy to touch up.

On the outside? The only way to get an accurate reading is to resplit the room temp wood, then check the freshly exposed face of the splits, in the middle. If its reading 20% on the outside it will probably be 30-35% on the inside...typical of what the firewood guys sell as "seasoned"
Thanks. I'll split some and check. I'm probably going to be disappointed. I've heard this "seasoned wood" fraud.
 
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I'll use an infrared to check the temp, didn't know the safe temp. Thanks!
for an accurate reading with an ir thermometer you will need put a spot of black tape in that area or a flat black something. Otherwise an adjustment needs to be made for the difference in emissivity. However, if you can touch it with your hand for a second or two, the temp is probably below 130ºF.
 
So here's the update. I had another company install a 3ft pipe which extends it beyond the roof peak and a Vacu Stack chimney cap that is supposed to solve the wind issue.

It didn't work. I actually think it's a little worse. Today we are getting 10 mph gusts and it smokes out of the stove, even when the pipe temp is reading around 350.

Any other ideas or did I just waste my money and can't run the stove if there is any wind?
 
Try it without the vacu stack cap.
 
So your saying smoke pours in house at startup?

Or all the time now? There are alternative wind caps than vacustack.

One on esty but I just installed yesterday from ireland..but it seems better than famco.

Famco needs constant grease and doesn't swing or move as easy.

I'll update next week.
 
So your saying smoke pours in house at startup?

Or all the time now? There are alternative wind caps than vacustack.

One on esty but I just installed yesterday from ireland..but it seems better than famco.

Famco needs constant grease and doesn't swing or move as easy.

I'll update next week.
It smokes whenever there is a gust of wind. Both on startup and while hot.

I think the wind is coming straight down due to the fact that we live on the side of a mountain with lots tall trees. Smoke coming out of the chimney will pour over the house. Like if you look out the window all you see is smoke blowing down from the roof.
 
Some say keep going higher with pipe....but try a rotating cap...

But it won't solve smoke upon startup with cold flue.
 
They just slowly start to stick...if you can clean and grease once a year I would try...

But I've never seen smoke come down after 45 minutes with the vacustack and stove up to 450 temps or so..

I can't go higher with pipe either...
Maybe invest in draft guage so you can constatly see the wind impact on guage.
 
I did. I had a standard cap and had the problem as well. That's why I switched it out for the Vacu Stack.
Sorry, maybe I misunderstood. Did you try it without the vacu cap, but with the 3 ft extension?
 
Sorry, maybe I misunderstood. Did you try it without the vacu cap, but with the 3 ft extension?
Yes, I had the standard cap with over 6ft in pipe, better draft but the wind was still able to come down the pipe.

It's enough wind to completely knock out a full blown fire.
 
A neighbor has a rooster tail cap for this reason. It turns its back to the wind. They come in galvanized or stainless.
 
Thats the famco make sure you get the collar and ss model...You need loctite copper Lb 8008 grease for that and it's not cheap.

There is another cap that has a round shield that makes a space between the shield and standard cap but doesnt turn. I'm looking for a photo now..

Some had luck with that....


Here is the one on esty but it takes 3 weeks or so to ship overseas.



Keep testing...
 
Here is the one I have not tried yet..


 
So I tested the dragon cap compared to famco.

The dragon move much better and increases draft more (not sure too much yet).
Seems like it also drafts better at coaling stage and when stove is off. The needle on magnehilic actually moves or gets a good draft readings when wind is blowing outside.

The famco didn't do this because it binds up with soot or heat after a while.

To be fair this is only a week or so of testing.

Hope this info helps. Please keep us posted.
 
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I might not be the brightest light on the porch but the laps on the stove pipe appear to be the wrong direction
Male end down/toward the stove is correct.