Waterproofing around stovepipe.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Normally the flue cap has a 2-3" collar on it that the ss liner slides through. That acts as an effective water dam. Other caps have a raised lip where the pipe goes through so the water sheds away from the pipe. That system may have a storm collar above this lip.

It's easier to to spot the problem in a picture. Any possibility of posting a shot of the flue cap?
 
Hi, I know this looks a terrible mess in the pictures but the cracks are just shrinkage lines and not the problem. When it has the finishing coat it will look fine. The problem is, in heavy rain, water runs down the SS liner and enters the chimney between the liner and the cement.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Waterproofing around stovepipe.
    IMGP0964x2.webp
    54.2 KB · Views: 312
  • [Hearth.com] Waterproofing around stovepipe.
    IMGP0963x2.webp
    61.6 KB · Views: 292
  • [Hearth.com] Waterproofing around stovepipe.
    IMGP0850x2.webp
    23.4 KB · Views: 263
Seal around the pipe where it meets the concrete with hi temp silicone. Work it in good with your finger.
Then put a storm collar around that pipe and sel it same way.
 
A storm collar will help for sure, but I wouldn't trust the cement joint. It can't flex with temperature variations. I'd put a proper flue cap on, sealed with HT silicone, then a storm collar, also sealed.
 
Hogwildz said:
Seal around the pipe where it meets the concrete with hi temp silicone. Work it in good with your finger.
Then put a storm collar around that pipe and sel it same way.

Second the motion by hogwildz....use Rutland high temp silicone rated to 500 degrees F...then finish off with storm collar
 
BeGreen said:
I'd put a proper flue cap on, sealed with HT silicone, then a storm collar, also sealed.
OK! But I need to know what I am looking for. It's not as if I could go into a shop here and say "flue cap" or "storm collar" and have someone know what I was talking about. Is there any chance you could post a link to a picture? Thanks.
 
Heres a storm collar. Not sure what size pipe your using, I used a photos of a 6" collar.
(broken link removed)
 
I think what BeGreen was referring to in the way of flue cap is a metal cap that would cover the entire area of concrete with flanges wrapping down the four sides a few inches. It would have a hole in it for the pipe to come through, and the hole would have a raised lip anywhere from 1/2" to a couple inches high. The storm collar would then seal around the pipe above the flue cap lip. IN your case, it would prolly have to be custom made by a sheet metal shop. I think you could try and get away with the storm collar alone, and caulking around the pipe where it meets the concrete. If water does end up coming in the concrete, then you could have the flue cap fabricated & installed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.