What am I doing wrong? Sharpening.

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TradEddie

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 24, 2012
992
SE PA
I've been sharpening chains for decades, freehand or with the simple Husky guide, but my newer Echo takes a different chain, so I got the 2in1 sharpener, and the results are far from ideal. The chain no longer "bites", I don't get that feeling of the saw being drawn into the wood, and even the last resort of leveraging against the dogs doesn't do much. FWIW, plunge cuts are excellent.

Any clues what I'm doing wrong? Rakers are perfect height. Freehand is a PITA . I've tried to keep the file horizontal, but I can see in these pictures that I'm at a slight upward angle, but that's what I always thought was better anyway.

TE
 

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From what I can sort of see from these pics the tip is blunted off, and it doesn’t look like the gullet is properly sharpened. It should look like a half moon unless you are using a square file
 
I agree, the tips seem not sharpened; first pic you can see the filing marks on the tooth, but they don't extend to the edge and to the tip.
I think you took not enough off.

And yes, the gullet should be more like a C
 
Obligatory Buckin Billy Ray link, his chains cut like a hot knife through butter:
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Another vote for the tip looks blunt, and the gullet seems too shallow. Also check the rakers with a gauge, shaving them down a bit will give you more bite if you have the power to pull the chain through.

I use a 2x4 block to check the chain as I sharpen sometimes, if I’m working on a trouble chain.
 
My first impression is that you are using the wrong size file for this chain. However, that profile might also be caused by rocking the file as you run it across the tooth (for example: maybe dropping your hand lower as you make the stroke, rather than moving it in a straight line.)

Also, maybe it's just the angle of the photos creating an optical illusion, but those rakers look far too low in relation to the tooth. Hard for me to tell by eyeballing photographs, though.
 
The best thing you can do to be good at sharpening is get a head lamp magnifier. If you can't very clearly see the edge change from dull to sharp you will just be guessing when you are sharp. With the magnifier you can see the top plate edge material "peel" off and see the sharp edge and corner develop as you file.

They are a game changer. Best $15 i ever spent.

 
Is that a semi chisel or full chisel? Some pics look like semi, and other look like very dull corner full?
If it is a full chisel that top plate corner is very dull.
The whole top plate is very dull as well.
 
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Buckin Billy Ray has a few great sharpening videos. The best show super close ups of the metal peeling off and turning teeth into nice sharp corners and top plates. He's got me dialed in to free handing.

Also files wear out pretty fast, try a new file and feel and watch the metal flakes fly off.
 
The top plate angle looks good - you were following the angle notch in the chain it looks like. The top plate corner is where the work of grabbing into the wood occurs. Your corners are dull. Think of this part as a knife - your knife is dull. Make sure the corner is sharp - and the rest of the top plate, too. Chains dull faster then most people realize.

Your rakers are low - so these teeth are going to be in the wood just not grabbing into it very well because the top corner is dull. You might have been lowering the rakers more and more because your saw wasn't cutting well? Probably if you sharpen the top plate and especially the corner your teeth will really start grabbing due to the low rakers - probably too much in hardwood.

Like said, you need to get the gullet - the area under the top plate. It should look like a "C". It took me a while, but I learned to really focus on the top plate cutting corner - everything starts there. Feel it with your finger it should be sharp and pointed. The gullet can't do its job if the corner 'knife' isn't cutting into and 'grabbing' the wood. But if the 'knife' is doing its job the gullet will peel out the chip.
 
I agree with others here. Your file is the wrong size. Looks like it's to big. It's causing you to not "get the gullet."
You're missing that hook between the top and side plates.
 
The best sharpening video I have ever seen is this one made by a Game of Logging instructor (and pro logger) in my area. He goes through the background of chain theory and design and how a properly sharpened chain is supposed to cut, as well as the actual instruction in sharpening.
The Art and Science of Sawchain Sharpening

Unfortunately, you have to pay for it. (Rent it for $1, download and keep for $7. And no, I have no financial connection to this video.) I had the privilege of getting that instruction in person from him, but bought the video anyway as a refresher and to lend out to friends who were struggling with sharpening.

If you want a free preview of his work, he did put up a video on his Youtube channel where he explains the design of a tooth and how it is supposed to work: How Saw Chain Works. This is not a "how to sharpen" video, it's strictly explaining how saw chain works. It does give you a chance to check out his style and see if it's something that suits you. There are also a number of other videos on his channel with helpful tips on chainsaw and felling technique.

Unfortunately the author, John Adler, passed away unexpectedly in Nov 2025 (heart attack).
 
I made a mistake and didn't pay attention when I bought my first 2-in-1. Bought the wrong size. It isn't just the wrong file size, all other specs would be incorrect also. Maybe you grabbed the wrong on on accident.
 
To those that pointed out the tip was dull, and the gullet was missing, well duh, I could see that too - my question was why!
File is the right size, rakers are almost perfect depth.

It appears to be because I wasn't taking enough off, full marks to stoveliker.
That chain had unavoidable ground contact, and likely at least one nail too. With the old Husky guide or freehand filing, 3-5 strong strokes always did enough, but I suppose with the 2in1, more of the effort goes into the rakers, so it requires more strokes. I went back to 10 freehand strokes on each tooth and it looks good again. Hopefully this impending storm won't cause me to test it too soon.

Thanks all.

TE
 
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You say 2 in 1 do you mean the Stihl or Pferd tool? My hands and wrists hurt me too much to sharpen free hand some days. I have the Pferd tool and it makes it a little easier on my hands and I can get a good job using them. I'm lucky enough to have 3 different size chains that I sharpen so I have 3 tools.
 
Why are you counting strokes? You need to keep filing until each cutter is sharp, duh! End of story.
So "what are you doing wrong?" You're not filing long enough. Like until it's sharp.
 
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Why are you counting strokes? You need to keep filing until each cutter is sharp, duh! End of story.
So "what are you doing wrong?" You're not filing long enough. Like until it's sharp.
Some are just used to thinking every tooth needs the same number for a strait even cut. Ex, 8 strokes on the dullest tooth and they all get 8.
I just file each one till they're sharp.
 
Some are just used to thinking every tooth needs the same number for a strait even cut. Ex, 8 strokes on the dullest tooth and they all get 8.
I just file each one till they're sharp.
Yeah that's an older wives tale. My buddy used to break out his micrometer and measure the length of each tooth. He'd get the shortest tooth sharp and then match each tooth by filing to that same length. That's an anal way to do it and not necessary and wastes a lot of tooth material. He is a very skilled guy fabricator, blacksmith etc. and likes to do thing correctly. But in this case it's not needed. Just sharpen each tooth till it's sharp and then set its raker. If you don't believe me go ask BBR.

I mean maybe you do what my buddy does if you are racing saws.

Counting strokes is Out. Not cool for many reasons.
 
Yeah that's an older wives tale. My buddy used to break out his micrometer and measure the length of each tooth. He'd get the shortest tooth sharp and then match each tooth by filing to that same length. That's an anal way to do it and not necessary and wastes a lot of tooth material. He is a very skilled guy fabricator, blacksmith etc. and likes to do thing correctly. But in this case it's not needed. Just sharpen each tooth till it's sharp and then set its raker. If you don't believe me go ask BBR.

I mean maybe you do what my buddy does if you are racing saws.

Counting strokes is Out. Not cool for many reasons.
Yes, this was my point. It's a wives tale.....
As long as the tooth is sharp, and the raker is set like you said, it's going to cut. It's not going to cut in a different direction'

FWIW, I'm not a BBR fan at all. He caters to the younger crowd, which isn't a bad thing, he's a bit goofy at times for adults to follow.
That's not mike dislike for him though. I'll say this once and then I'll leave it to rest. He promotes Ironhorse.....aka the Pot metal pony.
A well deserved nickname. Harvey is a known thief and Billy knows it. I have no love for thieves and no use for those who stand behind them.
 
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Yes, this was my point. It's a wives tale.....
As long as the tooth is sharp, and the raker is set like you said, it's going to cut. It's not going to cut in a different direction'

FWIW, I'm not a BBR fan at all. He caters to the younger crowd, which isn't a bad thing, he's a bit goofy at times for adults to follow.
That's not mike dislike for him though. I'll say this once and then I'll leave it to rest. He promotes Ironhorse.....aka the Pot metal pony.
A well deserved nickname. Harvey is a known thief and Billy knows it. I have no love for thieves and no use for those who stand behind them.
Hmmm i had no idea about any of that? Anyway yeah i get it with BBR videos, but i have to say his sharpening videos, although very long, were the 1st ones i saw with extreme close ups showing exactly what's happening as the tooth is being filed. So i have to credit him for upping my file game.

I used to be just like a lot of guys that would Count strokes, file away and think my chain was sharp, not get the rakers right, not really look for and see the correct cutter shape on each tooth. etc. and not understand how to get a rocked chain back to factory. And i started hand filing 40 years ago. That's a long time of wasted time.
 
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This guy gets to the point right away, without any BS and extreme close up of his filing.

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Hmmm i had no idea about any of that? Anyway yeah i get it with BBR videos, but i have to say his sharpening videos, although very long, were the 1st ones i saw with extreme close ups showing exactly what's happening as the tooth is being filed. So i have to credit him for upping my file game.

I used to be just like a lot of guys that would Count strokes, file away and think my chain was sharp, not get the rakers right, not really look for and see the correct cutter shape on each tooth. etc. and not understand how to get a rocked chain back to factory. And i started hand filing 40 years ago. That's a long time of wasted time.
Same here. I give the man credit for changing his life around. He does know saws, axemanship, and sharping of both. Let alone felling of trees. He changed my filing game too.
 
This guy gets to the point right away, without any BS and extreme close up of his filing.

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One thing I got out of that video: the guy probably needs to replace his file. I've never seen it take so many strokes to get a tooth sharp (not counting a tooth that has been severely damaged by hitting a rock or some metal - which is not the case here). I went back and counted. On the 3 teeth I watched, he was over 60 strokes each. It's normal for the first sharpening of a new chain to take a few more than normal, since you are reshaping the profile from the grinder used by the factory, but 60+? Something is not right there.
 
Personally i use a Stihl chain grinder when i first get a chain for a saw i use. I have 100lbs of used chains by now that i have picked up for free or next to nothing. It's been 20 years since i have bought a new chain.
Once it's trued up and i am using it, i touch up with a dremel type sharpener. We only have spruce to cut here so rakers become pretty much non existent on my saws.
Once you know how a chain cuts, it doesn't matter how you sharpen it.
I am not racing, just making firewood so as long as there is a stream of big chips flowing it's all good to me.
If i am selling a saw then the rakers get the normal treatment so the new owner can decide how they want to sharpen.
My saws just self feed and cut good