What diameter should I split my wood down to for an Englander nc 30?

[freddy4play]

Couple of questions. I am a newbie and just looking for a little advice.
I have an Englander NC - 30. Just purchased it on the advice of everyone here. Thanks. Anyway, I was splitting wood today and was wondering what diameter I should split the wood down to? Just small enough to get it in the front door or should I split it further? Should I keep the pieces larger or does the stove work better when split smaller?
Also, I have a 1200 square foot open floor plan ranch house in the Madison, wisconsin area. My house is fairly well insulated, but not fantastic. How many face cords of wood can I expect to go through in a typical winter? I have had a load of maple dropped off and a load of ash dropped off so far and was wondering how much seasoned wood I should plan on buying since this is not going to be ready for this year.

Also, I am getting the wood dropped off from a local tree trimming operation. Today they dropped off a load of maple, for free, delivered. Only problem is they basically drop off these humongous logs. 25-30 inches in diameter, along with the really nice logs. They do this so they dont have to go all the way to the dump to drop the wood off for disposal. The problem is, holy smokes, I cant move these huge logs. Is there an easy way split these damn things or should I tell them not to drop them off and risk losing the free wood? I am 40 years old and in good shape and have an electric splitter and a nice fiskars axe, but I am dreading trying to get this trunk split. Any suggestions?

 

[johnstra]

Big! The 30 loves big splits! Just make sure they are dry. Mine was happiest with 8-9" oak splits.

I burned 3 cords last winter. I'm in Northern Colorado and we get lots of sun and you're in a colder region. If you're heating exclusively with wood, you'll probably burn 4-5 cords.

That wood from the tree trimmers is not going to be seasoned. Hope you have access to some dry wood.

 

[dafattkidd]

Hey Freddy,
Sounds like you made a good choice with the Englander. Most members on the forum like a mix of split sizes. I usually have a mix of 6", 4" and a few 8" and 2". I like having a mix on hand depending on the circumstances I like to have options.

As for splitting monsters: Are the logs cut to firewood length? If so I would split them by hand to get them down to a manageable size, then bring them to your processing area. To split monsters you have to start hacking away at the sides. Don't try to cut them in half. Hack smaller chunks off the sides, circling the outside of the log. Be careful with the Fiskars. Those suckers are sharp!

 

[freddy4play]

4 to 5 full cords? Holy smokes. My house is only one level and 1200 square feet. You really think I will need that much?

Think it will be ready next year?

 

[freddy4play]

Yeah, the fiskars is sharp. I thought I would get a hell of a workout in by hand chopping. That lasted a day. Went out and bought an electric splitter from Home depot that got good reviews. I think maybe I should have went bigger if I am going to need 4 to 5 full cords a year. I did 3 face cords today and can barely move. The wood was wet and heavy as hell, but I figure I have to get something split at least hopefully for next year.

 

[HDRock]

You will probably burn 3-4 cord heating 1200 sq ft, that's a big stove for 1200 sq ft.
As far as the big chunks , I use sledge n wedges to break em down to manageable size, (see pic) and some times lay them on their side and noodle them with the chainsaw

 

[freddy4play]

Yeah, I went with a bigger stove since it was on sale from Home depot for $700 or something like that. It should still be ok, right? I wanted a bigger one so I didnt have to load it as much and it would be able to burn through the night.

 

[begreen]

We burn 7-8" splits in the T6 which is a similarly sized firebox. Large is fine, but keep them manageable. Smaller splits will dry out quicker if that is an issue.

 

[paul bunion]

Bigger splits are going to be easier to control in your stove. They will lessen the chance of a runaway if you give it too much air. Splitting larger also reduces the number of pieces of wood that you re-handle all the way through the process, another benefit to splitting on the big side. On the other hand, the bigger the split, the longer it takes to season, so species dependant, the ones that take a long time to dry take a lot longer in large chunks.

Free wood from the tree guys is the way to go, nothing like a complimentary years worth of heat placed in your yard. Get yourself a peavy or cant hook for rolling the logs. With a little leverage you will be suprised what you can move. A metal pry bar or collins ax can do the trick also.

 

[PapaDave]

freddy, sounds like you could be in the market for a chainsaw if you're getting logs dropped.
My home is similar in size and I have the 30 on my short list.
As I get older, I find that the bigger the split, the more difficult it is to handle. I'd much rather deal with more splits, than try to manhandle the huge splits.
7-8" splits are the normal for my large, and as dafattkidd said, a variety is good.
I'm in Northern Mi, and it gets a little chilly up here. We use pretty close to 5 cord/year in an older stove with dry wood. Usage has dropped somewhat since we discovered that wet doesn't burn.
Keep getting the wood and determine the best way to deal with it....if you have the room. You're going to need dry wood for that stove to work the gooderest for you.

 

[Jags]

You will be able to hang meat and make jerky with that 30 in 1200 sqft of space.

I don't make any splits that I can't pick up one handed from the end. I also like a variety of sizes.

 

[coldkiwi]

Let the big ones stack up ,then go and rent a log splitter for half a day and you are good to go

 

[Highbeam]

You will be able to hang meat and make jerky with that 30 in 1200 sqft of space.

I don't make any splits that I can't pick up one handed from the end. I also like a variety of sizes.

Took the words from my mouth, I like a big stove but in that house you will find the need to partially utilize the stove. Smaller splits will make it easier to burn low output fires but your burn times will be lower.

One handers is a good way to go, you can always split them down smaller as needed.

 

[ozzy73]

Mix it up, I use 5-8" for regular loads and a 8+ for overnighters. They take longer to season but I think its well worth the wait

 

[begreen]

Agreed, a mix is good. My wife likes to stick with 4-6" splits and rarely will do a full loading. That's fine, she is sticking within her comfort zone.

 

[BrianN]

You will be able to hang meat and make jerky with that 30 in 1200 sqft of space.

I don't make any splits that I can't pick up one handed from the end. I also like a variety of sizes.

I'm also with Jags on this one. If I can't pick it up with my weakest hand, it is too big. But, since my hand injury, I have to get the wife to stack, if she can't pick it up with her strongest, it is too big.
I will usually load 5 - 7 splits at a time, and that will last 12 hours or so.

 

[begreen]

I don't go by weight. The difference in weight between an 8" alder split and an 8" locust split is substantial. Instead I go by the fire. If it is just starting then smaller splits go in. If it is a reload I pack it with big splits and smaller ones in between to get it as tight as is reasonable. This is a pair of 9" splits rolling along.

 

[Maple man]

My 30 loves big splits it will run 12 hours on a big full load. I live in the catskill mtns in ny and go through 4.5-5 courds a winter and that is burning 24 7 some times it has a hard time burning down the coals though

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Couple of questions. I am a newbie and just looking for a little advice.
I have an Englander NC - 30. Just purchased it on the advice of everyone here. Thanks. Anyway, I was splitting wood today and was wondering what diameter I should split the wood down to? Just small enough to get it in the front door or should I split it further? Should I keep the pieces larger or does the stove work better when split smaller?
Also, I have a 1200 square foot open floor plan ranch house in the Madison, wisconsin area. My house is fairly well insulated, but not fantastic. How many face cords of wood can I expect to go through in a typical winter? I have had a load of maple dropped off and a load of ash dropped off so far and was wondering how much seasoned wood I should plan on buying since this is not going to be ready for this year.

Also, I am getting the wood dropped off from a local tree trimming operation. Today they dropped off a load of maple, for free, delivered. Only problem is they basically drop off these humongous logs. 25-30 inches in diameter, along with the really nice logs. They do this so they dont have to go all the way to the dump to drop the wood off for disposal. The problem is, holy smokes, I cant move these huge logs. Is there an easy way split these damn things or should I tell them not to drop them off and risk losing the free wood? I am 40 years old and in good shape and have an electric splitter and a nice fiskars axe, but I am dreading trying to get this trunk split. Any suggestions?

Welcome to the forum Freddy.

So, what diameter? Well, that depends. I do not feel anyone should give a blanket size to that question and the reason is that we do not know what wood you have but we do have a good idea that your wood is not ideal. And for less than ideal wood, you need to split it very small so as to hasten the drying process a bit. Stack that wood off the ground and outside in the windiest spot you have. Don't cover until the snow flies and then top cover only.

How much wood will you burn? See the answer to the above. But most folks in your area would be planning on burning about 4 full cord; not face cord.

Any suggestions on getting your wood split? Yes. First is the cutting. You need a chain saw but it does not sound like you need a large one. For the size you quoted, 25-30", which are about the size we cut the most, I have a Stihl 290 with a short 16" bar. You could go up to as high as a 20" bar but I see no need for it. Yes, the larger saws are nice and can be fun to run...when you are younger. You are 40 and I am 30+ years ahead of you. I still put up wood every year and plan on doing so for many more years.

A big helper for you would be a cant hook for rolling the logs. For example, you have some dropped off in log form that need to be cut. You do not want that saw chain to touch mother earth at all. So, cutting down at least 3/4 of the way through the log and stopping helps a lot. Make several cuts, then roll the log to finish the cut. That will save the chain and you won't be getting the saw clamped in the cut like a vise. You may very well get by with your electric splitter and fiskars but you may not. For sure those knotty pieces could give you problems. One thing you could do is save out the ones that split hard and when you get enough of them, rent a splitter for a day or part of a day. Or many times a sledge and wedges will do the task for you without renting. As for the Fiskar's, many seem to love them but I tried one and compared to the wood I split for many years, I would not buy one. I'd have a splitting maul or if you wanted an axe, any decent axe would do the trick. The sledge and wedge does the tough jobs.

One of man's best friends is pictured below. It is called the cant hook. Either a 3' or 4' handle and I don't think a good wood handle can be improved upon.

 

[HDRock]

One of man's best friends is pictured below. It is called the cant hook. Either a 3' or 4' handle and I don't think a good wood handle can be improved upon.

+1 , I think It's a must have tool

 

[jharkin]

As others I like a mix of sizes, bigger splits for bigger loads. But one word of advice... If any of those tree service loads brings Oak, split it small if you can't wait 3 years to burn it.

 

[blades]

I am in Milwaukee, so based on my past few years with the 30 in 2k sq ft running 24-7 with wood under 20 % moisture Min 3 cord ( 12 face cords) The maple you have( looks like Silver Maple) split stacked loosely say in 4-6" splits will be ready for use next season same for Ash ( 2014-15). Tree services generally run all the smaller stuff into the chipper. Unless you find a supplier that has had material split and stacked for over a year, or states it is kiln dried, it isn't going to usable this year. Only way to be sure is visit one of them if possible with a moisture meter ( get one from the box store or HF about $30 or less is all ya need) With most of these companies/guys the wood was cut last winter spring and all summer, split into a big pile over that same time period or worse yet split the day before delivery although it might have been laying around in rounds for 1/2 a year. Even if it kilned that does not mean it is dry enough as that spec from our DNR is for killing bugs not drying wood. That said there are a couple companies around kiln drying at real premium pricing in my area.
Chain saw, much as every one here loves Stilh or Husky, and I am not knocking that, the box store saws 18" bar 45- 50cc class, a little cheaper. Used is a shot in the dark. Both S & H make 3 levels of saws, homeowner, contractor and pro. Oh and I am not a fan of the " ez start systems( which again based on my experience, I refer to as never start systems, tools work better when the kiss principal is applied) With saw you can 1/2 or 1/4 those large rounds to manageable size to get on splitter ( 7 ton electric?) One more thing welcome to the world of CAD( chainsaw acquisition) and FAD( firewood acquisition) diseases.

 

[cre73]

In that small of a house I recommend smaller splits to control your heat better with smaller fires. I started out a few years ago with larger splits. Every year now I have to remind my self to split smaller. But I also sometime leave some nice sized splits mixed in for what I refer to as overnighters.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Definitely the larger splits for overnight fires in mid-winter. But you will still need some small ones too.