What is the best brand/type of pellet vent exhaust pipe?

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mrmichaeljmoore

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 17, 2007
93
CT
Along with me, there seem to be a bunch of threads recently about leaking exhaust pipes, especially around the cleanout tee.

Just to get mine sealed up this year, I had to use a ton of hi-temp silicone around the cleanout tee.
I havent had to that in the past.....I've used the hi-temp silicone around the other joints to shore up some minor leakage, but not around the tee.
Unfortunately, foil tape didn't work, cause that would've been a lot easier to deal with.
Now it looks like it will be a real pain the butt to get that clean out tee off for cleaning/maintenance.

So, that kinda got me wondering....

My pellet stove (Whitfield Profile 20) was in the house when I bought it. It's just under 10 years old.
Not sure what type of venting it is.

But I was curious from the experts here.........

What is the best brand/type of exhaust piping?


Here are pics of my current setup. I am gonna check with my stove maintenance guy and see about installing new exhaust piping so that I don't have to deal with the leaking clean out tee.

[Hearth.com] What is the best brand/type of pellet vent exhaust pipe?

[Hearth.com] What is the best brand/type of pellet vent exhaust pipe?

[Hearth.com] What is the best brand/type of pellet vent exhaust pipe?

[Hearth.com] What is the best brand/type of pellet vent exhaust pipe?
 
Duravents Pellet vent pro series is supposed to be leak free with out sealing with silicone.

But I don't have that so I can't say it's true. Just what I read and hear.
 
Isn't this like, "What's the best truck to buy?"? I use duravent on my stove. Mostly because that was what was available in the size and parts I needed. It is a twist lock fit. I have never used a sealer or tape. But, I can put up with a little whiff of something every now and then. Keeps me in touch with what I use to heat my place. Problems with sealing may likely be with the way it was handled and how it was installed. I helped a friend take all of his pipe down and return it to the stove store for damage done before the install. The stove shop said, no problem and stuck the pieces back on the shelf and grabbed replacements. After an hour and a half, the owner gave us a check for the pipe and sent us down to get our own. We were able to not only pick the pipe at Southerlands, but the department manager asked if we would pull the rejects so he could send them back. I don't think many shops think about the final install beyond soak it in hi-temp and tape and they will never know. I pulled a flex pipe on a stove because it was leaking and really went after the installer. Looked like they over bent it to fit in the truck or ran over it. Tried to tell me it wasn't his problem. We went to the dealer, who called him in, we got the new pipe, a couple rounds of coffee for our wait and a credit for the owner for instore accessories. I got lunch and a large bottle of my favorite for just being patient..... What a change for me.
 
I too have heard that the Duravent Pro Series is good. I had also heard that ICC Excel was best thing since sliced bread.

Good is good, but it comes down to the install as well as the product. My ICC venting has leaked since it was installed by the dealer. I have adjusted the overall height by almost an inch so that it actually matches the height of the stove exhaust collar and replaced a 90 degree elbow once. The second elbow leaks at the same area as the first. Finaly taped the seams....leaks solved.

I will say that the ICC with the silicone rings inside look like they would seal very well without tape or external sealant. Again a proper install to begin with makes all the difference.
 
I have Simpson Pellet vent pro as I was told that it is the best . In Canada we are required to seal all of the seams .I did them all except the bottom of the clean out
and the inspector didn't notice . It doesn't leak as far as I can tell .I did look at a Selkirk vent system and I didn't think that the lock system was as good . I am quite happy with mine so far .We will see after 10 years if I last that long .
 
I keep looking at your set up and it doesn't look right to me. What is the size of the pipe from the stove to the thimble? either the pics are bad or my eyes. I'll take credit for now. The worst thing is the cleanout T. It's tipped 90 degrees. That could be a big part of your leaking. How high does the pipe rise before the return? Seems a little short. I don't like the "U" either. I prefer a standard cap, or a horizontal vent from a right angle. You have too many bends and blocks to air flow. The leaking inside problems may come from the increased resistance from all the twists and bends. Straighten that thing out and you may find no problems with back pressure.
 
One thing about the Simpson that I didn't like is the difficulty getting the clean out T cover back on . The Selkirk was way easier.
 
I still swear by my ICC-Excel venting. It has replaceable high temp silicone gaskets. Easy to remove and reinstall the vent pipe for cleaning. I read a post of one that leaked with the gasket, but personally have not experienced this at all. I don't have a compicated install though. Just a direct vent corner install with one 45 and a straight pipe, so only two gaskets inside the house. Just check it out if you have a dealer near you. Maybe a little more expensive, but for me it's worth it.
Here is a link: (broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/icc/EXCELPellet_for_Pellet_vent_)
Mike -

Ps. the gaskets have a lifetime warranty and free replacement at the dealer.
 
I have Selkirk with the built-in OAK... zero leaks and ez as pie to install.

(broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=7428)
 
littlesmokey said:
I keep looking at your set up and it doesn't look right to me. What is the size of the pipe from the stove to the thimble? either the pics are bad or my eyes. I'll take credit for now. The worst thing is the cleanout T. It's tipped 90 degrees. That could be a big part of your leaking. How high does the pipe rise before the return? Seems a little short. I don't like the "U" either. I prefer a standard cap, or a horizontal vent from a right angle. You have too many bends and blocks to air flow. The leaking inside problems may come from the increased resistance from all the twists and bends. Straighten that thing out and you may find no problems with back pressure.

What do you mean tipped 90 degrees?
 
krooser said:
I have Selkirk with the built-in OAK... zero leaks and ez as pie to install.

(broken link removed to http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=7428)

Unfortunately, can't get Selkirk in CT or NY it seems....
thanks though...
 
mrmichaeljmoore said:
littlesmokey said:
I keep looking at your set up and it doesn't look right to me. What is the size of the pipe from the stove to the thimble? either the pics are bad or my eyes. I'll take credit for now. The worst thing is the cleanout T. It's tipped 90 degrees. That could be a big part of your leaking. How high does the pipe rise before the return? Seems a little short. I don't like the "U" either. I prefer a standard cap, or a horizontal vent from a right angle. You have too many bends and blocks to air flow. The leaking inside problems may come from the increased resistance from all the twists and bends. Straighten that thing out and you may find no problems with back pressure.

What do you mean tipped 90 degrees?

The outside T has double clean outs. Don't see them much. They are pricey!
 
jtakeman said:
The outside T has double clean outs. Don't see them much. They are pricey!

You can say that again....$138 at Dynamite buys for the 4" version....YIKES!
 
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