Random thoughts . . .
If you're determined to stick with the three brands you mentioned I would say you can't go wrong . . . all three are well known, loved and have their fanboys . . . well except perhaps for the "Jodel" . . . must be a Chinese knock off of the Norwegian Jotul line of stoves.

HehHeh . . . at least you didn't spell it Yotul.
If you opt to go with the Jotul line up AND you have 1,600 square feet of home . . . I would recommend the Oslo . . . this has a reasonably large firebox and would give you longer burn times and could easily heat up 1,500 square feet of space (I heat an 1,800 square foot two-story Cape here in Maine with 1970s vintage insulation with the Oslo as my primary heat source). You could perhaps go for the Castine . . . but I am a fervent believer in the idea of sizing your home to the stove and then going ONE size larger -- more folks complain about under-performing stoves here than folks complain about being driven out by the excessive heat . . . of course it is possible to go overboard which is why I suggest one size larger. One negative with the Oslo and a corner install is that you are not supposed to use the side loading door in this case which is one of its best features.
Seems to me that you may be in a bind right now . . . if you buy a stove now to heat 800 square feet you will either get a stove sized correctly for your home now and be happy and warm, but when you build the addition the stove will not cut it and you'll be very cold . . . on the otherhand if you get a stove sized to the future addition right now you will be driven out of hearth and home due to the excessive heat . . . and I like being warm like any other person . . . but there is such a thing as too much heat (hint . . . when the goldfish are dead because the water is too hot, the stove is sized too large.) I guess what I'm saying is that in my opinion you may want to hold off on the stove purchase until you build the addition . . . unless that addition is going up soon . . . or buy a smaller stove for the current home and realize you will end up selling it and taking a bit of a loss.
Radiation vs. convection . . . sounds like your concerns here are moving the heat from the room with the stove to the rest of the house and burn injuries to your child(children). First off, all stoves can heat up a place, regardless of type . . . moving the air in the home can actually be easily accomplished by using a regular desk top fan that you probably already own . . . putting it on the floor and aiming it towards the room with the stove will blow cooler air towards the stove where it will be heated, the hot air will rise and then flow out into the areas vacated by the cool air that the fan has pushed towards the stove. Truth be told, even radiant stoves heat with some convection . . . and vice versa . . . for example, with my Oslo -- a radiant heater -- you can feel the radiant heat if you sit in front of the stove . . . and you can feel the hot air rising from the back of the stove with the heat shield in place.
Injuries to children . . . as mentioned . . . all stoves will burn hot enough to injure a child. Gates and fences are often used to protect little ones.
Sizing the stove . . . already mentioned, but I will mention this again . . . I believe it is prudent to figure out the size of your home, figure out what size stove you need and then go one size larger. This worked for me . . . and it has worked for many others. I can burn efficiently and cleanly in my larger stove on days when I just need to take the chill out of the house and I can keep the heat at a comfortable level when the weather is sub-zero . . . the key is knowing how to operate the stove . . . and perhaps more importantly knowing how to load the stove -- i.e. for taking the chill out of the house on a cool Fall day I use a partial load of my low-BTU wood chunks . . . vs. using a full load of my "good stuff" in middle of January.
So you like it warm? Who doesn't . . . but forget sitting in your basketball shorts and T-shirt . . . think sitting in your boxer shorts and your wife or significant other wearing next to nothing . . . simply because you can and it's warm enough . . . of course while this is usually a good thing to us Neanderthal men . . . the negative is if you have unexpected company knock on the door and you have to make a decision of hurrying to get dressed or becoming the talk of the town when you answer the front door wearing nothing but your skivvies.
24/7 heating . . . as mentioned . . . all stoves can heat 24/7 . . . there are no stoves that I know of that can only hold a fire in the metal or stone box for less than 24 hours . . . of course if we're talking stoves that you can light a fire and they stay lit for 24 hours straight without loading . . . well there are not many . . . perhaps the best known are some folks who say their Blaze Kings were able to do so . . . long burn times in a stove generally boil down to either having large fireboxes or having catalytic combustors.
Chimney . . . most folks say the straight shot inside and through the roof is the preferred method of installing as you may get some heat from the stovepipe and chimney, the draft should be good and it may be easier cleaning . . . that said I have an install that is out and up . . . which I did due to my home's construction . . . and it works quite well for me. I am plenty warm, draft is fine and cleaning is actually very easy.