what type of chiminey is this?? for castine w/ pics

[ejwoodward]

Can anyone tell me what kind of chiminey this is? And if so, how I might be able to extend it. I am burning a jotul f400 castine and am not getting the optimal performance. I have tried just about everything to try and get longer and hotter burns. The only thing left to change would be the draft. I am using a 6" double wall stove pipe that is appx 7 ft long and tying into my existing 8" chiminey that runs an additional 6 ft. Total, I have about 13 ft of pipe going straight up from the stove. The manual said that I need at least 14 ft of pipe to optimize performance. Any ideas on how I might be able to extend what I have without having to replace the whole thing would be greatly appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Hard to say from the picture. It looks like something cobbled together. You need to determine if this is class A pipe. If not, don't use it. It also appears to be well under the 10_3_2 rule for flue pipe. The pipe is supposed to be 2 ft. higher than the nearest roof, ten feet away.

Can you get up on the roof, with camera and a tape measure? Remove the cap and see if it is single wall or a double-walled pipe. With the camera shoot a top down view of the pipe. Then measure from the top of the pipe horizontally to the roof and report back what you find.

FWIW, if this were my house I would tear all of this out and replace it with a proper, class A, 6" flue. On top of the bad draft, it looks like the old assembly has been the source of leaks.

 

[polaris]

That looks like an air cooled chimney for a zc fireplace(I could be wrong though). It really needs to be lined with a 6" liner all the way up for best draft and safety.

 

[ejwoodward]

Yes, the measurements do not currently meet the 10, 2, 3 rule. When it was installed the installer told me that as long as it was three ft higher than the point where it exits the roof then I would be ok as far as ember protection. The installer told me that having a shorter stack would mean sacraficeing performance. Also, the pipe is insulated. Being that it is insulated, does this mean that it was originally designed for fire use instead of just being a piece of culvert piping? The internal diameter is slightly less than eight inches. I am toying around with having it replaced but I am trying to keep my costs down as I already have more money into the new stove than i had orignaly intended. Hearing your opinons has me leaning more toward having it all replaced. Any idea what kind of cost I would be looking at?

 

[begreen]

Hard to say cost without having measurements. Could be $500 to $1000 if you do the labor or maybe up to $1500 to have it done. However, that would be a cheap insurance policy. It is unlikely that this stove pipe is rated for woodstove use and if there is a fire, your insurance may not cover it.

What is the history of this flue? Was this setup in place in the house when you occupied it? What is the support box, connection like inside the house? Can you post a picture of this?

 

[ejwoodward]

Hard to say cost without having measurements. Could be $500 to $1000 if you do the labor or maybe up to $1500 to have it done. However, that would be a cheap insurance policy. It is unlikely that this stove pipe is rated for woodstove use and if there is a fire, your insurance may not cover it.

What is the history of this flue? Was this setup in place in the house when you occupied it? What is the support box, connection like inside the house? Can you post a picture of this?

The original stove was a fisher. Here is a pic of the inside connection. I don't think it was ever part of any other type of system in this home but then again the house was built in the 70s. Thanks for the input. I have been surfing this site for several month now and find all of your posts to be very informative. Thanks