When To Expect To Need a Complete Stove Overhaul?

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JotulOwner

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Oct 29, 2007
360
Long Island, New York
I just replaced the main door and ashpan door gaskets on my Jotul F400 after three seasons of use. I am not surprised that I needed to replace them since I open and close my stove much more often than those who load the stove a few time a day (I prefer to add splits more often and I clean out ashes often as well). Anyway, I was just wondering how many years I can expect the rest of the stove gaskets to last before everything needs replacement (even the unexposed fire brick).

Thanks
Art
 
Good questions Art< I'd be curious to some of the resonses you get. I'm an Oslo owner and about 3 years in myself. To date my seals are in good shape, stove was checked when the sweeper came. Would be interested to know how long the firebrick will survive before needing to be replaced and what other items would need check and replace on this brand.
 
It seems to vary a lot on when gaskets need replacing but I doubt opening the door more often as you state has much to do with it. On door gaskets, we've had to replace them as soon as 2 years and others have lasted almost 20 years.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
It seems to vary a lot on when gaskets need replacing but I doubt opening the door more often as you state has much to do with it. On door gaskets, we've had to replace them as soon as 2 years and others have lasted almost 20 years.

That is quite a gap in time. What else affects the time frame for replacement? Operating temperatures? Ashes, etc caught between the stove and gasket? Quality of the gasket?
 
I just replaced 2 door gaskits after 9 years on my castine, Simple job. Wondering now about the ash pan door. Not gonna try to drop the entire ashpan. Curious how hard it was changing the gaskit whilst the door was still on.
 
if it were me i wouldn't worry to much about rebuilding. you'll know when it's time. when you start to notice things like. i blew thru 2 more cord of wood this year than normal, and your not getting the same 6 to 7 hour burn times but now your getting 4 to 5 and the last but not least and this you'll notice right away is that your stove is running hotter and it's hard to get it to back down, then you'll need to rebuild
 
fbelec said:
if it were me i wouldn't worry to much about rebuilding. you'll know when it's time. when you start to notice things like. i blew thru 2 more cord of wood this year than normal, and your not getting the same 6 to 7 hour burn times but now your getting 4 to 5 and the last but not least and this you'll notice right away is that your stove is running hotter and it's hard to get it to back down, then you'll need to rebuild

Thanks FB on the feedback. Your response begs new questions. I understand seeing differences in how the stove operates, I keep a good eye on fuel consumption, temperature, length of certain burns (times of the season) , fuel type and odd situations that would alter any normal burns. That said, what rebuilding would take place (ie: parts) to bring the stove back to it's original state, close to when it was new?
 
Hi

'Run an F-12 (now marketed as an F600 cb) for 12 years now. It get used pretty heavily. 'Do gaskets, where needed, every 2 or 3 years. Last winter was the 10th season. I changed the burn tubes/manifold assemby in August, as the old one was starting to come apart (but still did the "gas stove" effect -- but not as well as when new.) We touched up the furnace cement where cracked. Now, its as good as new. I'll do something similar in another ten years, assuming I'm still around.

Regards,

Dexter
 
all stoves are different. even the same brand and model can differ from one year to the other. door gaskets are when needed when the dollar bill test fails. furnace cement seals are usually good for a while depend if you move your stove around or bang logs into it. bricks are obvious. but anything you have to disturb to replace some other part will need to be regasketed or cemented. if you find (other than new stoves) pieces of furnace cement in your ashes or you see gaps where there should be furnace cement, then it's time for a rebuild. trying to replace a piece of furnace cement doesn't usually last long because of it needs to put on a clean wet surface. if everything is in good shape it will just need a good cleaning or vac.
 
fbelec said:
all stoves are different. even the same brand and model can differ from one year to the other. door gaskets are when needed when the dollar bill test fails. furnace cement seals are usually good for a while depend if you move your stove around or bang logs into it. bricks are obvious. but anything you have to disturb to replace some other part will need to be regasketed or cemented. if you find (other than new stoves) pieces of furnace cement in your ashes or you see gaps where there should be furnace cement, then it's time for a rebuild. trying to replace a piece of furnace cement doesn't usually last long because of it needs to put on a clean wet surface. if everything is in good shape it will just need a good cleaning or vac.

I recall reading somewhere that Jotul uses fiberglass gaskets on all the seams (instead of just cement). From what I can tell looking at the stove in a few spots, it appears to be accurate. I think the firebrick is in between the cast iron walls. It isn't visible.

That is also why I am curius about the cause of gasket failure. I thought open and closing the doors (wear and tear) was the main cause, but some experienced wood burners believe that there are other reasons. Just wondering what they are and if the remaining fiberglass gaskets in the F400 might fail anytime soon for the same reason(s).

Thanks
Art
 
adrpga498 said:
I just replaced 2 door gaskits after 9 years on my castine, Simple job. Wondering now about the ash pan door. Not gonna try to drop the entire ashpan. Curious how hard it was changing the gaskit whilst the door was still on.

Actually, it was very easy. It's a much shorter length of gasket than the main door and I had no real problem removing the glue with a small wire brush. I imagine replacing the ashpan gasket is a much more difficult job unless the stove is turned on it's back or upside down.
 
Thank you Sir, I just may give it a shot. I must say when I pulled off the 2 doors and replaced the gasket it wasn't very difficult. ASh pan door still passes dollar bill test but I figured maybe time to replce the door gasket there too.
 
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