When to sharpen

[fireview2788]

I'm sure the info is here somewhere but I couldn't find it. When do you know it's time to sharpen. Should I use the "I've cut x number of trees so it's time" or "This thing won't cut butter" method.

Thanks,

fv

 

[Eric Johnson]

You should always sharpen your chain before it gets dull. I usually do it, with a file, after every tank--whether it "needs it" or not. It's just a good habit to get into, and ironically, your chain will last longer if you sharpen it more frequently. Trying to force a dull chain to cut is really rough on it. Rough on you, too.

 

[amateur cutter]

You should always sharpen your chain before it gets dull. I usually do it, with a file, after every tank--whether it "needs it" or not. It's just a good habit to get into, and ironically, your chain will last longer if you sharpen it more frequently. Trying to force a dull chain to cut is really rough on it. Rough on you, too.

I Agree, although I've been known to go 2 tanks sometimes. Another rule of thumb is to sharpen when the chain is making dust, not chips. By the time they make dust they're really dull though. Pay close attention to how the saw cuts with a new or sharp chain, if it ain't doin that it's time. If the chips coming out of my chains aren't as big as a small fingernail the chain is dull. This will vary slightly with chain pitch & cutter type, ie chisel vs. semi chisel, lowpro vs .325 or 3/8 chain etc. Pay attention, & you'll get the idea real quick. A C

 

[MasterMech]

All good info above. Rule of thumb is touch up the chain after every tank of gas. I'll be honest and admit I go several tanks before swapping out for a sharp chain. You will develop a good feel for when it needs to be sharpened and adjust your interval accordingly.

 

[bogydave]

I watch, listen & feel.
Watch the chip size on the ground after a cut
Listen to the sound of the saw, it has a sweet even sound when it's loaded & cutting well.
Feel how the saw pulls into the wood & how little pressure is needed for the saw to eat thru the wood. Shouldn't' need to force the saw to cut.

Get a picture, sound & feel for these with a new, sharp chain.
When you see smaller chips, hear a higher pitch or are making the saw cut, sharpen or put on a new chain. Saves fuel & work

It takes less than a 1/2 a second for the chain to hit the ground (or something other than wood) & be dulled.
Can happen after you just filled the tank.

 

[fireview2788]

Well, then my chain is really really really dull...... thanks guys.

fv

 

[lukem]

All good advice above for what to look for when cutting. I can usually look at a cutter and tell if it dull. If the leading edge has a glint to it, it is dull....

I sharpen every couple tanks, whether it needs it or not.

 

[Eric Johnson]

If the chain is doing most of the work, then it's sharp. If you're doing most of the work, it's dull. Pretty simple.

 

[Thistle]

I generally give the chain 2 strokes with a file every fill up.Depending on what I'm cutting that can vary though.Standing Red/White Oak snags,deadfall or any Hickory & Honey Locust really do a number on chains so they get touched up sooner. And milling anything other than Silver Maple gets touched up quicker also.Frozen wood below 20 degrees is rough on the cutting edge too.

Like others,I watch the size of the chips,dont wait until I see 'flour'. And every 3-4 sharpenings I take the rakers down a bit,2-3 light strokes with a small flat file.You'd be amazed on how many saw shops skip this step.

 

[amateur cutter]

Thistle is right on with rakers too. A C

 

[baratta930]

I have a dumb question. The last time I used my saw I was cutting some large pine logs and the chain was getting dull (taking more effort to cut, the chips were pretty small and starting to get a little dusty, no bite into the log, etc ...).

Yesterday I had to cut up a small pine tree and feeling lazy just started cutting thinking that I'll swap chains if it's too dull. The weird thing is that it cut fine, threw nice chips, good bite into the wood, engine didn't sound off, etc ...

Can a hot chain cut differently and act dull versus a cool chain? Was the sappier trunk wood to blame? A little confused

 

[Eric Johnson]

My guess is that your rakers are filed lower on one side than the other--or the chain is duller on one side than the other--causing your bar to try to "curve" as it gets deeper into the bigger trunks. What happens is that the bar starts to bind as more and more of it is drawn into the cut. That's not a problem with smaller wood, for reasons that may or may not be obvious. Suffice it to say one of the two conditions I mentioned would cause a saw to cut small logs a lot better than big ones. Sap and heat have nothing to do with it.

Once that happens to a chain, it's hard to get it back, especially if the problem is with the rakers. You can if you're patient and you know what you're doing, but considering the cost of a new chain, you're probably ahead to toss it and start fresh. Or, use it to practice your filing.

 

[greg13]

Curve cutting is usually from different angles being filed from one side to the other. It can be hard for some people to file a chain free hand.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Curve cutting is usually from different angles being filed from one side to the other. It can be hard for some people to file a chain free hand.

Ah yes, the memories. Probably most of us went through that when we were learning. I also recall being laughed at a good deal which sped up the learning process a lot! You won't laugh the next time!...

 

[MasterMech]

My guess is that your rakers are filed lower on one side than the other--or the chain is duller on one side than the other--causing your bar to try to "curve" as it gets deeper into the bigger trunks. What happens is that the bar starts to bind as more and more of it is drawn into the cut. That's not a problem with smaller wood, for reasons that may or may not be obvious. Suffice it to say one of the two conditions I mentioned would cause a saw to cut small logs a lot better than big ones. Sap and heat have nothing to do with it.

Once that happens to a chain, it's hard to get it back, especially if the problem is with the rakers. You can if you're patient and you know what you're doing, but considering the cost of a new chain, you're probably ahead to toss it and start fresh. Or, use it to practice your filing.

Right on Eric.

To fix a chain that refuses to cut straight, find someone who has a grinder and knows how to use it. You could do it with a file and measuring each cutter with a caliper but that would take awhile. A grinder properly setup would fix the problem during the course of a regular sharpening. If it's just the rakers, hand filing with a depth gauge tool should get you back to cutting straight lines.

Check your bar groove too. If it's worn then even a brand-new chain will want to "wander" in the cut. Nothing wears the groove out faster than a chain thats filed unevenly.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I'm sure the info is here somewhere but I couldn't find it. When do you know it's time to sharpen. Should I use the "I've cut x number of trees so it's time" or "This thing won't cut butter" method.

Thanks,

fv

Big chips = sharp

Small chips = not sharp

Powder = WTF!

 

[baratta930]

My guess is that your rakers are filed lower on one side than the other--or the chain is duller on one side than the other--causing your bar to try to "curve" as it gets deeper into the bigger trunks. What happens is that the bar starts to bind as more and more of it is drawn into the cut. That's not a problem with smaller wood, for reasons that may or may not be obvious. Suffice it to say one of the two conditions I mentioned would cause a saw to cut small logs a lot better than big ones. Sap and heat have nothing to do with it.

Once that happens to a chain, it's hard to get it back, especially if the problem is with the rakers. You can if you're patient and you know what you're doing, but considering the cost of a new chain, you're probably ahead to toss it and start fresh. Or, use it to practice your filing.

Thanks Eric, I'm still learning how to file but I'm getting better. My two chains have been with me for the last year of "learning" and probably need to be ground back into shape.

The Granberg gig helped make me a much better filer but I'm still working on consistent pressure side to side. I wouldn't be surprised if one side is duller than the other. The chain doesn't pull significantly to one side but it doesn't cut perfectly straight either

Thanks,

Berardino

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I sharpen every time I refill the gas and oil tank. It makes sure I have a chance to rest. Running a saw is the last thing I want to do when tired.

Matt

 

[xman23]

I have to admit, I don't sharpen, I buy a new Stihl chain. I was never able to get them as sharp as new chain or stay as sharp for as loog as a new chain.

 

[MasterMech]

I have to admit, I don't sharpen, I buy a new Stihl chain. I was never able to get them as sharp as new chain or stay as sharp for as loog as a new chain.

A saw shop (maybe your saw dealer?) should be able to sharpen them for $8-10 a chain. They should be like new if they know what they are doing. Or you could invest in a Timberline sharpener. Most foolproof way to get chains sharp that I've seen yet.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/

http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/

 

[DexterDay]

A saw shop (maybe your saw dealer?) should be able to sharpen them for $8-10 a chain. They should be like new if they know what they are doing. Or you could invest in a Timberline sharpener. Most foolproof way to get chains sharp that I've seen yet.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/

http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/

I agree.... Either spend the money to re-sharpen or get a device to help you.

A chain will only cut for so many hours (fill in your wood an cutting habits here..)

But there is SO MUCH your throwing away by NOT SHARPENING YOUR CHAIN.

I own a Timberline chain sharpening system. Its easy as can be..... Spend some money and sharpen all your chains. A good sharpening can be as good or BETTER than a chain.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I sharpen every time I refill the gas and oil tank. It makes sure I have a chance to rest. Running a saw is the last thing I want to do when tired.

Matt

This I do not understand at all. If you need to rest, rest. If you need to file, file. Why file a chain needlessly?

 

[rkshed]

Has anyone in NH used the Timberline and where did you get it?
I want to get my hands on one of those!

 

[MasterMech]

Has anyone in NH used the Timberline and where did you get it?
I want to get my hands on one of those!

All that have used it here have purchased it online. That's the only way I know of to get one. Follow the link in my earlier posts for reviews and a discount code for Hearth.com members. You can search "Timberline" on this forum too as we did some talking on the item a few months back.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't believe in hand filing. Instead, I use a grinder every time and I simply swap chains when the one I'm using gets dull. As such, I probably run each chain until they are quite dull and then switch. Easy to cut a cord with a single chain. I only bring one backup with me into the woods.

I think BiggRedd will agree that skip chains are the way to go since they seem to last just as long and only take half the time to sharpen.