I'm sure the info is here somewhere but I couldn't find it. When do you know it's time to sharpen. Should I use the "I've cut x number of trees so it's time" or "This thing won't cut butter" method.
Thanks,
fv
Thanks,
fv
You should always sharpen your chain before it gets dull. I usually do it, with a file, after every tank--whether it "needs it" or not. It's just a good habit to get into, and ironically, your chain will last longer if you sharpen it more frequently. Trying to force a dull chain to cut is really rough on it. Rough on you, too.
Curve cutting is usually from different angles being filed from one side to the other. It can be hard for some people to file a chain free hand.
My guess is that your rakers are filed lower on one side than the other--or the chain is duller on one side than the other--causing your bar to try to "curve" as it gets deeper into the bigger trunks. What happens is that the bar starts to bind as more and more of it is drawn into the cut. That's not a problem with smaller wood, for reasons that may or may not be obvious. Suffice it to say one of the two conditions I mentioned would cause a saw to cut small logs a lot better than big ones. Sap and heat have nothing to do with it.
Once that happens to a chain, it's hard to get it back, especially if the problem is with the rakers. You can if you're patient and you know what you're doing, but considering the cost of a new chain, you're probably ahead to toss it and start fresh. Or, use it to practice your filing.
I'm sure the info is here somewhere but I couldn't find it. When do you know it's time to sharpen. Should I use the "I've cut x number of trees so it's time" or "This thing won't cut butter" method.
Thanks,
fv
My guess is that your rakers are filed lower on one side than the other--or the chain is duller on one side than the other--causing your bar to try to "curve" as it gets deeper into the bigger trunks. What happens is that the bar starts to bind as more and more of it is drawn into the cut. That's not a problem with smaller wood, for reasons that may or may not be obvious. Suffice it to say one of the two conditions I mentioned would cause a saw to cut small logs a lot better than big ones. Sap and heat have nothing to do with it.
Once that happens to a chain, it's hard to get it back, especially if the problem is with the rakers. You can if you're patient and you know what you're doing, but considering the cost of a new chain, you're probably ahead to toss it and start fresh. Or, use it to practice your filing.
A saw shop (maybe your saw dealer?) should be able to sharpen them for $8-10 a chain. They should be like new if they know what they are doing. Or you could invest in a Timberline sharpener. Most foolproof way to get chains sharp that I've seen yet.I have to admit, I don't sharpen, I buy a new Stihl chain. I was never able to get them as sharp as new chain or stay as sharp for as loog as a new chain.
A saw shop (maybe your saw dealer?) should be able to sharpen them for $8-10 a chain. They should be like new if they know what they are doing. Or you could invest in a Timberline sharpener. Most foolproof way to get chains sharp that I've seen yet.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/
http://www.timberlinesharpener.com/
I sharpen every time I refill the gas and oil tank. It makes sure I have a chance to rest. Running a saw is the last thing I want to do when tired.
Matt
Has anyone in NH used the Timberline and where did you get it?
I want to get my hands on one of those!