Where's the heat, Myriad?

[A M]

As I wait for the Outside Air Kit and pipe and thermodisc and magnetic thermometer to place on the Drolet Myraid wood stove that I have had for three days now, ... I admit. I have wondered whether or not I have spent and wasted $1,000 on this new stove. I don't believe such a statement 100% but I have thought this several times in the past 72 hours.

The stove is not "heating" as impressively as I had imagined it would. The rooms I'm in run about 30' across by 50' with a wooden divide in the middle of living room, dining room, laundry room and kitchen.

The house is about 1500 square foot (double-wide home) on a quarter acre. This is my first NEW stove and bought it primarily based on the very positive reviews I've read from several different websites.

Well, by the 2nd day, the glass had turned nearly 3/4 reddish black. Only the upper top of it was still clear. The stove makes a pinging sound that I think is normal and probably when the metal is expanding and contracting with the heat. I never did smell that new wood stove odor and why you must first make your small fires so the paint will cure, and then you can burn with larger wood pieces.

My guess is the problem is my wood and it is about one year old. I'm having doubts now that it may not be as "seasoned" by now as I thought it was.

I need to get a hardwood like Oak. Instead I am using left over wood such as hickory, walnut and something else but I don't know the name of it. My other guess is that if the "peak" of the roof is considered the upside-down "V" part that brings the two sides of a double-wide house together, then I can tell you that the triple-wall Duravent chimney pipe is NOT past that on the roof and I think I should have my friend put up another two or three feet of pipe. He insists on measuring it first next week and says why should I pay for three feet if I really only need two? I guess he is right and so that's what we'll do.

I am even a little jealous when I read that owners of the Myraid say neat things like their Myraid is really cranking out the heat ... but I think that they are using the good hardwoods, too, and perhaps have taller chimneys than mine.

Yesterday, and without sounding dramatic about it, ... I started feeling really sick in the living room and immediately closed the primary air control, exiting for the back bedroom that was cool and had no smoke smell or heat in it. I think it is a combination of the stove sucking the air that is in this house (it is not air-tight like some of the newer homes are), but at the same time, with the one year old wood pieces I get from the garage, ... that it is the bad particles of carbon dioxide that I'm breathing in ... so, yeah, I can't wait to receive the air kit in a week to a week and a half. I just laid down for a good hour before I felt better and went back into the living room.

Today I started using more of the hickory and less of the dark walnut. The walnut gives off so much smoke inside the stove that I just thought that the light colored hickory might be better to use for now, that maybe it is actually truly seasoned? I got both of these woods from two different people during summer 2013.

I've got double-wall stovepipe.

I don't understand how the pipe itself can be so hot to touch for more than a second last night and yet if I walk out from this living room into the kitchen on the other end of the room, you really can't feel any heat there. Am I expecting too much from this stove? Perhaps I am, but, after reading about larger houses that have been kept warm with their same stove as mine, I figure it has got to be what I've mentioned above and relatively easy to solve.

Yesterday morning, I had my coat on over my bathrobe BECAUSE it was not warm enough to
not have the coat on WHILE the stove was running. Honestly, I try to be a smart consumer but there's no way I had intended to pay a thousand bucks for a heater that only heats up three feet around the stove, ... so, I am not blaming the stove directly but I am frustrated and somewhat disappointed that I am not experiencing all that I had anticipated from a "new" stove by Drolet.

The weather today outside was warmer than yesterday but I've kept the stove going all day with a little bit of wood and I did not want to start a fire tonight from a cold stove.

I know that I'll feel better when my friend determines how much more pipe I need on the roof, ... whether I should buy a 1/2 cord of seasoned oak AFTER I buy a wood moisture meter and perhaps even if I should buy an Eco-fan, instead of using the blower. The Owner's Manual does say to turn it on one hour after you first light the stove. Cold air comes out of it but I guess it's suppose to. Initially I thought it was suppose to be warm air.

My friend also suggested I start small when starting the stove in the morning (oh, there have been some red coals in the morning, just not tons and tons of them); i.e., paper, kindling, small pieces of wood and then WAIT with the door cracked open an inch until that's all going gang-busters and THEN add a bigger piece of wood. I admit I get impatient and will put on a big log too soon (after .20 minutes), and then in a few minutes, nothing is happening. It won't burn and I realize that I've pushed my luck and have gone 2 steps back instead of getting that darn fire going strong.

Specifics: From floor to ceiling, it is 8 feet total, then into the 24 inch triple wall box and probably (for a total of 5 feet (?) triple wall pipe,) but as I mentioned before, ... I think it needs more as it sits under the highest peak of the roof ridge and that is certainly within 10 feet of where the chimney cap is located.

Well, I think I've given enough information so whomever responds can give me ideas or advice that I can try. Or, something I have not thought of. I've learned alot reading from hearth.com and looking at youtube.com, etc., so I think I know what's wrong but I could be wrong and the wood I have is fine and maybe it is just a pipe issue. I'll see what you all can share and I'd especially like to hear from any Myriad owners out there!

 

[WriteNoob]

I haven't read all the way through your post yet, but with a short chimney, smoke infiltration, and feeling sick, I'd strongly advise that you stop using the stove, air out the house, and get a carbon monoxide detector, immediately. Don't use the stove until you have, at least, the minimum amount of chimney height, and a way to tell if the thing is going to kill you, if it's not set up or running properly. Trying to help, not preach, but this could be a serious danger, especially if their isn't enough chimney height to draw the carbon monoxide up the stack.

 

[Spletz]

More kindling. More patience to put on bigger splits. And definitely better (drier) wood will help dramatically. The pipe may need to be extended as well.

Once it is going full throttle, there ought be real heat. Why wait an hour before firing the fan?

I don't know your specific model, sorry. I'm sure others will chime in.

I suspect dry wood and patience will help your game.

 

[WriteNoob]

Couple questions/comments, on operation ...

1. Are you using the bypass? If so, are you closing it, when the stove comes up to proper temperature? (Bypass should be down 'open', when you start/reload, and up 'closed' when the stove heats up. I close mine at around 250* F, on a stovetop thermometer.)

2. Sounds like your chimney is on the edge of being too short. Minimum is 12', but it also needs to be a certain height in relation to its placement on the roof.

3. That much soot, so quickly on the glass points toward wet wood or draft issues.

Let's see what those with more experience have to say, though.

EDIT - Sorry, I mispoke on #2. You close the bypass once your wood is burning well/charred, and your chimney comes up to temp. Not your stove top.

 

[begreen]

So far, I think the issue is not the stove. Hickory, like oak needs two years to season after it has been split and stacked. Water does not burn. If the wood is damp in the middle it is not going to heat well at all. Go to the store and buy a few bundles of dry wood to try out for comparison.

The problem sounds like it may be getting confounded by a short chimney. It should be at least 15 ft for this stove. Also note that there are code specs for chimney clearances to nearby roof or building structures. If you add on chimney, it must be braced at the 5 ft level.

From the manual:
2. It must rise above the roof at least 3' (0.9 mm) from the uppermost point of contact.
3. The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10'
(3.04 m) distance by a height of 2' (0.6 m).

In illustration form:

 

[xman23]

I don't know your stove, but the same goes for all stoves. It sounds like you haven't gotten it hot enough. Blackened glass is more or less a combination of wet wood , smoldering burn and not hot enough burn. Regardless how it happened if the stove ultimately got hot enough for long enough you should have burned the glass clean. Assuming you were trying to get maximum heat out of the stove.

Cold starts can be tricky, but with a fire starter, a few pieces of kindling and few dry splits you should get it to take off every time. If it dies the wood is to wet.

I'm not sure what you were saying about a smell in the house. There should be none if it drafting ok. Occasionally we will get smoke to go over the roof and come in a open window. You could have just gotten it hot enough to bake the paint. It quite a smell that will get you a bit light headed. Best to have the windows open when you reach these temperatures. For a while you will get the smell each time you reach a new high stove temperature.

So get a cheep stove top temp gauge, some good wood and get that thing rippin.

 

[A M]

Thank you for these responses ... you don't know how much it means that you made the effort to chime in and help get me the answers I need. I'm going to post a few pics and that might help, too.

So far, I think the issue is not the stove. Hickory, like oak needs two years to season after it has been split and stacked. Water does not burn. If the wood is damp in the middle it is not going to heat well at all. Go to the store and buy a few bundles of dry wood to try out for comparison.

The problem sounds like it may be getting confounded by a short chimney. It should be at least 15 ft for this stove. Also note that there are code specs for chimney clearances to nearby roof or building structures. If you add on chimney, it must be braced at the 5 ft level.

From the manual:
2. It must rise above the roof at least 3' (0.9 mm) from the uppermost point of contact.
3. The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10'
(3.04 m) distance by a height of 2' (0.6 m).

In illustration form:

Begreen, ... I really believe that what you've pointed out (and thanks for the actual diagram), that the chimney pipe is not tall enough. THAT and not having the greatest wood is compounding the problem. Though my friend has more experience, per say, with fireplaces than actual wood stoves, I think I'm going to get the "3 foot" pipe extension and not the "2 foot," - he's big on saving money - but I personally do not care if I have to spend another $30.00 or $40.00 in order to be/feel safer with that extra foot of triple-wall piping. This all depends on what he measures out on the roof. I don't know if you saw my photos. I added them AFTER I wrote out my delimma with the lack of heat, smoking, etc.

I had read one post here a couple of days ago and the guy ended up putting up an extra two feet of pipe on the chimney and guess what? He reported back to everyone that after doing this his stove NEVER died out instantly again whenever he'd simply open the stove's door. But in no way do I regret buying a NEW STOVE, due to the secondary burn tubes and the two other older stoves did not have this. Also, there's no history with a new stove. There is with used, older stoves. Yes, I think and can hardly wait to have new additional pipe up there. I'll be so happy and far more content with my Drolet once this is accomplished.

Anyway, thanks again for helping out all of you: xman23, Spletz, WriteNoob. I will let you all know how it turns out.

Anita

 

[Cory S]

I'm betting on the wood and new stove learning curve.

 

[Spletz]

I'm betting on the wood and new stove learning curve.

Ditto. Poor wood leaves glass like that. The pipe ought be longer too.

 

[Matt93eg]

I'm betting on the wood and new stove learning curve.

This is what I would bet as well. Last year my Wife and I got a new EPA stove and there was a learning curve. I was trying to figure out how to properly work the stove and didn't have any seasoned wood for last year and that just made things worse. Once you have dry wood and figure out how to work the stove you will have much better results. I have much better wood this year and have our stove pretty much figured out, so far this year I am enjoying it much more.

 

[weatherguy]

You should have next year's woos already stacked and seasoning, in fact you should have two years worth in your yard so you never have problems with wood again.
You could supplement this years supply with eco bricks, Neil's logs or cut up pallets.
Good luck and keep us updated how it's going.

 

[A M]

Thanks, guys ... I know that begreen said the chimney must be a MINIMUM of 15' ... looked at the OM ... and it states a minimum of 12'. However, on the diagram he listed (above), I'd say my chimney cap goes to about the middle of the left-sided illustration.

Meaning, ... this chimney needs to be taller. As, it is BELOW the tallest peak of the roof. Don't think it is easy to tell by the pic I posted, but, trust me it is. It's just difficult taking a photo at eye level up on a tall ladder (the tallest I have is a 6-footer), so take that into account that the photo I posted is from the ground and I do not think that the base of the chimney part you can see on the roof is taller than 3'.

EVEN IF my friend measures it from the top of the flue opening that's on top of the stove, ... EVEN IF it comes out to being 12' tall, ... I really think I am going to get better results if we add on some pipe ... I've got a new question now for you all: if you add on pipe, is it a given that it will take longer for the long(er) pipe to heat up or is that no big deal, anyway?

I agree with you that I do need to learn as I go and get better at starting a fire; the patience thing I'm 100% in agreement. When I look on youtube.com, do you realize how many "methods" people out there have for starting a fire? It can get a little confusing because there seem to be so many options, so do you try all of them on different days and then decide which method works better for yourself?

I think I should buy a sharp mini ax and start cutting up really small pieces of "kindling," and get a huge bucket of it ready to go at any time for starting a nice fire.

 

[papa bears stove]

Agreed that seasoned wood and proper chimney set up and height are critical to getting the stove to burn properly. In a previous post you mentioned that the pipe was extremely hot but the stove wasn't. I'm curious if the bypass handle is removable. If it is I would remove it after loading on a good bed of coals as I had a bypass on a stove and when it would get hot enough it would open the bypass on its own. I resolved that issue by removing the handle in between loading. I understand the house isn't well insulated but a oak can only help you and is required for that stove when installed in a mobile home. If you see a slow burn and would like yo do a test for combustion air, I would crack a window and watch the fire. If the fire starts to really come to a vibrant burn, it would tell us you are lacking enough air for combustion.

 

[Cory S]

OAK are fantastic.

 

[A M]

You should have next year's woos already stacked and seasoning, in fact you should have two years worth in your yard so you never have problems with wood again.
You could supplement this years supply with eco bricks, Neil's logs or cut up pallets.
Good luck and keep us updated how it's going.

I have been considering buying a chainsaw even before I bought this new stove; however, and unfortunately, I have never had much arm strength, so nearly all of the chainsaws I've picked up at Lowe's or Sutherland's, for examples, are way too HEAVY for me. Honestly, it would be stupid of me to buy a chainsaw with the sole purpose of cutting my own wood - as much as I'd love to - a year or more early - as you mention, but, unless I found a chainsaw (preferably the cordless type w/lithium battery!), I can't get one yet. So...still searching. It's got to be light enough for me to comfortably handle before I engage it with cutting AND portable so I can scour the nearby woods in search of downed trees.

Oh, eco-bricks? Yes, I have heard of them. Dale Calder in Canada (on youtube.com), uses them in his cabin he built 2 years ago or so. The guy is pretty neat. He has his own house and some land, yet he really wanted a little "cabin" - so, he builds it about 600 feet away from his house and whenever he's in the mood for an overnight stay in the cabin, ... there he easily goes. It's got a small wood stove and a propane heater so he can even cook. It's like a mini vacation away from the norm ... he is retired ... but I understand how he feels. Instead of the expense of getting away somewhere other than where you are; especially in the Winter-time, there's your nearby cabin, and you can escape to a point in it, for even a little 24-hour jaunt.

Yes, Dale uses the eco-bricks and really likes them. I would like to master the "wood" properties before I ever venture out from wood, but, thanks for the suggestion!

 

[A M]

OAK are fantastic.

Cory, ... I am looking forward to getting that OAK, as well as using the wood OAK, ... as soon as it is possible, and thank you for saying!

 

[A M]

Agreed that seasoned wood and proper chimney set up and height are critical to getting the stove to burn properly. In a previous post you mentioned that the pipe was extremely hot but the stove wasn't. I'm curious if the bypass handle is removable. If it is I would remove it after loading on a good bed of coals as I had a bypass on a stove and when it would get hot enough it would open the bypass on its own. I resolved that issue by removing the handle in between loading. I understand the house isn't well insulated but a oak can only help you and is required for that stove when installed in a mobile home. If you see a slow burn and would like yo do a test for combustion air, I would crack a window and watch the fire. If the fire starts to really come to a vibrant burn, it would tell us you are lacking enough air for combustion.

Thanks for reminding me about the hot double-wall stove pipe. Because, that still concerns me a bit. What is up with that? You would think that with the pipe getting THAT hot, that it would have burned off that black creosote on the glass. No, it did not. That's a puzzle to me. Hope to God the outside triple-wall chimney pipe is cold to the touch, as I've read it is suppose to be.

Speaking of pipe: have you or anyone else reading this post ever bought and installed triple-wall STOVE PIPE before? It is not real abundant to purchase on the internet I notice and even if I could get it, ... wouldn't it probably (as I've read) imped the heat warming up the entire pipe causing your home to be less warm, overall? Let me know what you think, please.

The bypass damper I open (counter-clockwise; to the left is OPEN) or opened (I did not make a fire last night; it wasn't cold but that's not why. I did not make a fire because I want to get the pipe added on before I build one again. Sure, it might be OK safety-wise, but, I agree with what WriteNoob had to say (above)), and always close it after the fire gets going.

Are you serious? You stated that when your stove got hot enough, the bypass damper would OPEN on its own? OK, that's freaky and scary. To answer your question, yes, I can easily take off the lever - and the OM mentions taking it off if you have small children around, if your wish to - ... in other words, do you mean, does one truly need to use a bypass damper?

I'll have to remember the window test ... however, I have always had the intention of getting the O.A.K.; I had ordered it for the best price I found on the internet (homeclick.com), and think they order it directly from Drolet; therefore, the 2 to 3 week wait. It is technically suppose to ship out to me on 12/9/14. Maybe I will try and NOT use the stove until then? I don't know yet; will wait and see how the weather goes.

 

[papa bears stove]

Yes the heat and weight of the bypass would allow the bypass to open on its own, not all the way but enough to allow most of my heat to go up the chimney. I would advise to double check to make sure you are closing it correctly and remove it in between loading. I would also get a double wall pipe thermometer to see exactly what your flue temp is. You would want your ideal flue temp to be between 400/800 degrees. Where are you trying to run the stove with the control lever? The glass makes me think that you are either burning wet wood or you are starving the stove for air. I also didn't catch if you are getting smoke in the house when you are reloading it, please advise if you are or are not.

 

[begreen]

What brand triple wall pipe was purchased for this installation?
Don't worry about the bypass handle or the bypass accidentally opening up. The odds of it not working in your style stove are very slim. What you need is to get a hotter fire going. Dry wood and a proper flue will help that. A stove top thermometer would be a helpful accessory to pick up so that the actual operating temperature is known.

 

[A M]

Begreen: The brand of the triple wall pipe is the Duravent triple-wall chimney HT (used one season; got from private party; still looked new, about a six-foot total section). The stovepipe is Duravent DVL double-wall, bought new in a kit.

Did you get those specs from the OM of Drolet? That exact illustration which I find extremely helpful is not in the OM that came with my stove. It says 12' is the minimum; does your say 15'?

OK, ... I won't worry about the bypass damper.

My friend is coming on Tuesday to measure the roof, etc., but I pretty much told him that I'm going to have him install the 3' pipe, whether I need that extra foot or not and to put up the 4' "extension bracket" that is just being unopened and obviously never used from last year. I overbought thinking I'd use it then and did not. He thinks that from what he's seen the last time he looked at it two weeks ago is only a total of 2' tall, ... what is up there NOW.

Glad that the bracket for the extra pipe length will be fully utilized this week!!

 

[begreen]

Sounds good. Is this DuraPlus pipe by DuraVent. If so it should be fairly easy to find. Home Depot sells it.

You are right about the 12'. I missed it, but a search showed it up in the technical specifications. Thanks for the correction.

Any luck finding some drier wood? Maybe they also have bundles at Home Depot?

 

[Chuck the Canuck]

Hi there A M. I have a Drolet Austral, pretty much the same stove as yours. I have my Austral installed in the basement and it is heating the entire house very well. Once you have extended the chimney and get yourself some properly dry wood to burn, your Drolet will burn great for you! Don't give up; it is an absolutely fantastic stove!

Cheers

 

[weatherguy]

Yes, Dale uses the eco-bricks and really likes them. I would like to master the "wood" properties before I ever venture out from wood, but, thanks for the suggestion!

Hopefully adding 3 feet to your flue will solve your problem but if your woods not seasoned enough one of the ways to solve it is by mixing eco bricks in with the wood that you have seeing how the eco bricks are really dry. If you can find some wood seasoned enough even better but at this time of the year it can be tough depending on where you live.
Lets see how it burns with the added pipe before moving on to another step.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

I have the Austral too, which is basically the same thing as your stove. This is my first year burning in it so im learning as well. I had the same problem with the dirty glass and it was pointed out to me that i cant push the air intake rod all the way in because that chokes down the air to much and affects the air wash. By leaving it out 1/4 to 1/2 inch i pretty much eliminated the dirty glass problem. My chimney is only 12 ft high so i still have draft issues and stuff im trying to figure out as well. As far as heat goes im impressed with the amount of heat this thing kicks out. Load that sucker up, get it going good and it cooks. I heat 1600 sq ft easily with it.
Definitely more of a learning curve than i anticipated but i think once you get it figured out you'll be pleased with your stove.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

You stated that when your stove got hot enough, the bypass damper would OPEN on its own? OK, that's freaky and scary.

and yes indeed, i learned this the hard way on mine. If you leave the handle on the bypass damper the weight of it will open the damper by itself. You're suppose to take the handle off after each use which is a pain. I found if i just took off the round wire knob off the lever it was enough to keep it from moving on its own. I keep an oven mitt handy to move the lever when i need to. Got my chimney pretty hot a few times with that thing opening on its own.