Wood Felling Predicament

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Nelson

Nelson

Feeling the Heat
Dec 5, 2013
265
Mount Horeb, WI
I'm attempting to fell a 16-18 dia Elm that is growing between two larger oaks. I took multiple looks at it to make sure I was comfortable that it didn't get hung up and felt pretty good about it. Turns out, I was wrong. I attempted to use wedges to get it to fall but they didn't budge it. After multiple attempts with the wedges, I resorted to try to persuade it with a long rope and pulling.While I was able to get it sway some, all it did was shimmy the tree off to one side of the stump. As it stands now ,the tree is essentially sitting square half on the trump, with the other half overhanging.

Looking for any advice on tihs one. Haven't run into this before and not sure where to go. I think I have a come-along that I may attempt to use tomorrow to get it to move but, outside of that, I'm out of ideas. I don't think I want to go near it with a saw at this point as I don't have confidence in which way it will fall.

Sorry, I don't have pics. I was out there til it got too dark to work and forgot to snap some. May try and post a few tomorrow if you think it would help understand the situation.

TIA!
 
Can you pull it with a truck/long rope?
Maybe a pulley to direct it away from the vehicle?
 
Definitely calls for some pics. It can be done but it isn't for the faint of heart. Or from advise from folks not seeing the setup.
 
Try a come-along?
 
Definitely need to see some pics to be able to offer any advice. I'm curious where it got hung up in the process when you made the initial felling cut. Did you use an open-face notch with a felling cut?
 
BigCountryNY said:
Definitely need to see some pics to be able to offer any advice. I'm curious where it got hung up in the process when you made the initial felling cut. Did you use an open-face notch with a felling cut?
Click to expand...

i used a conventional notch.

I completed the process of the felling cut. I think I misjudged where the weight of the tree was and that caused it to sit down rather than fall over. I used wedges to try and get it to go but they weren't big enough to make a difference. Big mistake was not staking my wedges to start - learned my lesson there. Open-face may have worked better in this scenario.

Thanks for the respones thus far. I wil get some pics in the morning.

I have a large amount of respect for felling trees and I always take my time, but this one definitely has me sweating. I'm no seasoned vet at felling trees but I've done enough to feel pretty comfortable. That said, the 16-18 in diameter is about as big as I want to go.
 
Can you stack wedges?

Sounds like the face cut may be too deep?
 
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jeff_t said:
Can you stack wedges?

Sounds like the face cut may be too deep?
Click to expand...

I think not stacking wedges was my big mistake. I think it's past the point of being able to stack any wedges as the fell cut has closed somewhat, due to the tree settling straight down on the stump.

I don't think the face cut was too deep. Went about 1/4-1/3 way in but maybe. What happens if the face cut is too deep?
 
The face cut on an open-face notch should cover about 80% of the breast height diameter of the tree at roughly a 70 degree angle and should only go in 15-20% of the breast height diameter. Your hinge size should be 10% of the breast height diameter. If the face cut (directional notch) is cut too deep and the hinge is too far back, it could result in the tree popping off the back of the stump.

I like to use a plunge cut so that I can leave a little holding patch at the back of the felling cut. This buys me just a little more time to make one final look around and make sure everything is clear before the tree comes down.
 
BigCountryNY said:
The face cut on an open-face notch should cover about 80% of the breast height diameter of the tree at roughly a 70 degree angle and should only go in 15-20% of the breast height diameter. Your hinge size should be 10% of the breast height diameter. If the face cut (directional notch) is cut too deep and the hinge is too far back, it could result in the tree popping off the back of the stump.

I like to use a plunge cut so that I can leave a little holding patch at the back of the felling cut. This buys me just a little more time to make one final look around and make sure everything is clear before the tree comes down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info BigCountry. Your instructions are pretty close to what I typically do except that I have been using a conventional notch instead of an open-face. I too like to use a plunge cut to leave a little bit at the end in tact so I can take one more look around. In this case, as my way back toward the end of my felling cut, my blade got pinched. That makes me think I misjudged the where the weight was.
 
MY property is wooded, so I deal with potential hang ups all the time. Hard to say without pics...but at this point I'd put a come along with a really logs rope or chain on it and crank it to where you want it to fall...then go behind with your saw and nibble on the back cut....crank come along, nibble, etc..until it's leaning good toward where you want it or the come along just pulls it down. Having a helper putting tension on the come along speeds things up. If it does get snagged, and they do sometimes...you just have to take it down 3 feet at a time which I hate but sometimes you just have to.
 
BrotherBart said:
Definitely calls for some pics. It can be done but it isn't for the faint of heart. Or from advise from folks not seeing the setup.
Click to expand...
I agree with BB, I have cut my way out of many problems, but without pictures, not much can be said.

If you have cut away enough tree, and it is simply leaning back on your felling cut (and the way it sounds, your hinge is no longer intact) then pulling the tree in the direction you want it to fall is the only way to go. Still think it would be tough to advise you even with pictures. Sound dangerous, be careful.
 
PIcs above were from this morning. Since then, I tied it off and was able to get it to drop off the stump. It's now standing straight up and down on the ground. I've been trying to pull it down but it looks like there is a bigger branch, up top, that is hung up on one of the nearby oak branches.

I thought about attempting to do another fell cut (open-face) but i'm worried about what will happen. My guess is that the new "stump" will be unpredictable when it goes and I don't want to be around it when it does.

Thanks for all the replies. I understand that there is hesitation in giving advice. At this point, I think I may give up and call a tree service and let them deal with it.

Andy
 
I see you have a rope in it. You are gonna have to pull and keep an eye on that thing. Whatever you do, don't go near that base again. That is very dangerous.

You need a come-along, or a big truck. Pull and MOVE.

I think most tree services would either charge you an arm and a leg, or just pass.
 
How did you pull it off the stump? I think I would keep doing that if you can't pull it over from the top- pull the bottom the other way. Should slide along the ground unless it hits an obstacle, like another stump or something.
 
Cutting at the base in this situation could be dangerous. Upright hangers do unpredictable things when disturbed. You don't want to be anywhere near the fell zone while working with it.

If the tree was hung at a steeper angle you might be able to cut low and drop it. As it is now, it would be safer to pull over with a rope or cable, snatch block pulley and a tractor.
 
Can ya get your tractor in place to pull the trunk in southeast direction? Whatever ya do.........SAFETY FIRST

Check your weather forecast, a south wind might do it for ya.
 
couple whacks with a sledge hammer she'll come down. Which way is any ones guess.
 
maple1 said:
How did you pull it off the stump? I think I would keep doing that if you can't pull it over from the top- pull the bottom the other way. Should slide along the ground unless it hits an obstacle, like another stump or something.
Click to expand...

I had it tied down and secured to a tree on the north side. Form there, I whacked it with a sledge hammer a few times and, eventually, it dropped off. Dropped straight off and is standing damn near upright right next to the stump.

My wife actually suggested the same thing, RE: pulling the stump in the oposition direction. I went out and bought a come-along so I'm going to see if I can pull it down with that. If that doesn't work, I will try pulling the stump.
 
Fred Wright said:
Cutting at the base in this situation could be dangerous. Upright hangers do unpredictable things when disturbed. You don't want to be anywhere near the fell zone while working with it.

If the tree was hung at a steeper angle you might be able to cut low and drop it. As it is now, it would be safer to pull over with a rope or cable, snatch block pulley and a tractor.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I'm not going near with a saw at this point.

I have a 4 ton come-along now and I'm going to give that a try as I htink that is the safer route as it will keep me away from the drop zone.
 
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