wood furnace always smokes..UPDATE

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Double wall pipe would be best, but you could get an insulation kit meant for flex liner, wrap that around it. Shouldn't make a huge difference though. I'd think more chimney height would help more.
 
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I don't know of any that could withstand a possible 900* temp other than double stainless. Any way you can use 2 45's and another straight piece to lose the other 2 45's.
 
Double wall will take more heat than the single that is there now....
 
Hey MR! I meant insulation around his single wall that could withstand that temp. K wool, but what to use to wrap it with?
 
Well...its better...when its hot it has very little smoke puffing out...but I see one big issue. Since I have 6 feet of black pipe inside the building it cools down fast and then it smokes again. Is there an insulation I can wrap that pipe with to keep the temp up?
I seriously doubt that the lack of a pipe wrap is a cause or material contributor to your problem. Although it is possible a pipe wrap may make things seem to be better, you still have underlying unresolved problems.

Are you sure what you see is smoke as opposed to water vapor condensation? A byproduct of combustion is water vapor, and if outside temps are below 32F the vapor may condense into a visible, smoke like stream from the stack.
 
Well...its better...when its hot it has very little smoke puffing out...but I see one big issue. Since I have 6 feet of black pipe inside the building it cools down fast and then it smokes again. Is there an insulation I can wrap that pipe with to keep the temp up?


So is the smoke you're talking about here out the top of your chimney, or out the door of the furnace?
 
So is the smoke you're talking about here out the top of your chimney, or out the door of the furnace?
Good question. And I would add to it...or are we talking about smoke coming from the pipe joints?
 
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Good question. And I would add to it...or are we talking about smoke coming from the pipe joints?

Watch the video earlier in this thread. It shows that he has smoke back puffing out the door of the furnace.

I think minimizing the bends by 2 or installing two 15° bends and a piece of pipe would help a lot. It needs more draft pulling up the air.
 
Watch the video earlier in this thread. It shows that he has smoke back puffing out the door of the furnace.

I think minimizing the bends by 2 or installing two 15° bends and a piece of pipe would help a lot. It needs more draft pulling up the air.
Right, I seen the video. I guess I had the impression (wrongly?) that maybe the issue had changed after the MH removal and that was why he wants to insulate the pipe...
 
Watch the video earlier in this thread. It shows that he has smoke back puffing out the door of the furnace.

I think minimizing the bends by 2 or installing two 15° bends and a piece of pipe would help a lot. It needs more draft pulling up the air.

Yes, but then he changed things and the follow up comment about smoke wasn't clear to me at least as to where he was now seeing the smoke after making the changes. Sounded to me like the smoke he was now seeing was out the chimney, would go away when the smoke pipe was heated up, and come back with a cold smoke pipe.
 
I went back and watched your video. You asked for comments and you got plenty here. Although I believe you have underlying problems as have been mentioned above, I did notice that you opened the loading door quite rapidly. My experience has taught me that almost any wood burning appliance will smoke if you open the door rapidly which causes a vacuum in the box. Not that this suggestion will solve your problem but I would like you to try this: -- Just unlatch the door and slowly crack it open about 1/2 inch which will allow the smoke and gasses in the chamber to start exiting the flue (7 to 10 seconds) and then slowly open it the rest of the way. That procedure should get the fire burning up instead of out your door.

I also think you would have better luck if your class A chimney were closer to the ridgeline even though you will have a longer run inside.
 
I went back and watched your video. You asked for comments and you got plenty here. Although I believe you have underlying problems as have been mentioned above, I did notice that you opened the loading door quite rapidly. My experience has taught me that almost any wood burning appliance will smoke if you open the door rapidly which causes a vacuum in the box. Not that this suggestion will solve your problem but I would like you to try this: -- Just unlatch the door and slowly crack it open about 1/2 inch which will allow the smoke and gasses in the chamber to start exiting the flue (7 to 10 seconds) and then slowly open it the rest of the way. That procedure should get the fire burning up instead of out your door.

I also think you would have better luck if your class A chimney were closer to the ridgeline even though you will have a longer run inside.
thank you all for your input... Greatly appreciated. 3. Answer some of the questions you addressed are as follows:. The smoke I'm talking about is coming out the door when I open the door to load wood. You mentioned I open the door quite fast. I did that in the video. But, I've tried opening it slowly and I've opened it and waited a few seconds and then open it wide. The same results happen. But, after I removed the magic heat the smoke was minimal coming out the loading door when the chimney is hot. As the chimney cools down it smokes profusely from the loading door. The chimney has to be at least 300 degrees to keep the smoke to a minimum from rolling out the loading door.
 
Solution: let the fire die down to low coals before loading.
 
HeHeHe...I worked all day too...it's called access to a 'puter at break time. Yeah, I guess I'm addicted!
Oh, and you're welcome ;)
 
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