Wood not drying in shed, what now?

[Optimistic]

Hi all,
Last fall I built a new shed and put about 1.5 cords of split ash and oak, both standing dead when cut, inside. The moisture content of the wood when I put it in there (according to my hand held meter) was around 23%. Now, 12 months later, the moisture content is about...21%! Basically it seems like it would have been just as dry if I'd felled it and split it yesterday. The wood is on pallets, on top of dry gravel. The shed has a sliding door (not a tight seal) and the rafters are open to the outside on both ends.

I read a book called "Norwegian Wood" recently (probably many of you have received it for Christmas gifts?), and it looks to me as though I should have kept the wood out in the weather (with something to keep rain and snow off it) through the winter to let the wind dry it and then put it in the shed in the summer sometime (is that right? Because now I have a bunch more ash to split and stack somewhere.). The author specifically says not to do it the way I did it, sticking it right in the shed.

Anyway done is done and I'll be needing the wood fairly soon. Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Stack it outside for a month or something? Leave the door to the shed open? As I said, a lot of it is ash, which seems to burn reasonably well even wet, so I guess doing nothing and doing better with the next batch is also an option.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Cheers,
David

 

[Medic21]

That’s perfect to burn it. At 23% it would have went in my stove without second thought.


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[lsucet]

As long is 21 is good. Be sure to bring it inside for a couple of days and check on a fresh split. I deal with softwood but I don't like to split and stack it right away. I check the weather for rain in the next two weeks ahead or so, if everything good I let it in the ground for awhile. Sun light and air early summer is the best for me.

By the time I stack it, it feels dry. Being softwood it can be burn that winter but I am years ahead. I think a few weeks under sun light and air in an open space, including for hardwood should be good for the drying process.

 

[Optimistic]

Thanks for the replies, that's interesting to hear, I thought I was aiming for like 15-18 percent? I have a catalytic unit (Fireplace Xtrordinair Apex 42) and I'd heard that they worked better with dryer wood...although to be honest the thing throws so much heat maybe I don't need it to work any better than it already does...

 

[lsucet]

Any modern wood burning stoves regardless technology, ( should be the same for old stoves ) calls for dry wood and manufactures recommend 20 and under. If I remember correctly, I was reading a owner manual online one time ( forgot the brand and model ) and they recommend 25 and under. I don't know if it was a typo.
I will say 21 is good as mentioned earlier. Take a good amount inside if possible next to the stove and it will help a little. You are okay.

 

[jotul?]

There was a thread here last week concerning a solar kiln made from clear plastic sheeting. It seemed pretty straightforward and might be very effective if you get enough sunny days for the next month or so. Especially since your splits are already a year old.

 

[JohnDolz]

Hi all,
Last fall I built a new shed and put about 1.5 cords of split ash and oak, both standing dead when cut, inside. The moisture content of the wood when I put it in there (according to my hand held meter) was around 23%. Now, 12 months later, the moisture content is about...21%! Basically it seems like it would have been just as dry if I'd felled it and split it yesterday. The wood is on pallets, on top of dry gravel. The shed has a sliding door (not a tight seal) and the rafters are open to the outside on both ends.

I read a book called "Norwegian Wood" recently (probably many of you have received it for Christmas gifts?), and it looks to me as though I should have kept the wood out in the weather (with something to keep rain and snow off it) through the winter to let the wind dry it and then put it in the shed in the summer sometime (is that right? Because now I have a bunch more ash to split and stack somewhere.). The author specifically says not to do it the way I did it, sticking it right in the shed.

Anyway done is done and I'll be needing the wood fairly soon. Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Stack it outside for a month or something? Leave the door to the shed open? As I said, a lot of it is ash, which seems to burn reasonably well even wet, so I guess doing nothing and doing better with the next batch is also an option.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Cheers,
David

How did you measure the moisture? Did you split a piece and measure the center? Did you bring it inside (assuming not very humid inside), leave it for a couple of days and then split and measure the center? Thinking the wood in the shed is reflecting the humidity from outside vs. true "wet/green" wood (you mentioned it was standing dead). Willing to bet that once you bring it into a heated area for a couple of days that the moisture content will be lower.

 

[Optimistic]

How did you measure the moisture? Did you split a piece and measure the center? Did you bring it inside (assuming not very humid inside), leave it for a couple of days and then split and measure the center? Thinking the wood in the shed is reflecting the humidity from outside vs. true "wet/green" wood (you mentioned it was standing dead). Willing to bet that once you bring it into a heated area for a couple of days that the moisture content will be lower.

I just took a piece right out of the shed, split it, and measured at the center of the split face. I'll try what you suggested. I've been meaning to build a rack to hold a few days of wood inside, this experiment could be further inspiration for that.

 

[lsucet]

In winter is important to bring the wood inside for a couple of days before split it and measure it cause of lower outside temps affecting the reading but in summer and early fall that still warmer outside I think that the reading off the stack can be accurate or so so. Maybe I am wrong.

 

[JohnDolz]

I just took a piece right out of the shed, split it, and measured at the center of the split face. I'll try what you suggested. I've been meaning to build a rack to hold a few days of wood inside, this experiment could be further inspiration for that.

Inspiration is always a good thing. My bet is that you will be fine with the wood.

 

[NoGoodAtScreenNames]

Any modern wood burning stoves regardless technology, ( should be the same for old stoves ) calls for dry wood and manufactures recommend 20 and under. If I remember correctly, I was reading a owner manual online one time ( forgot the brand and model ) and they recommend 25 and under. I don't know if it was a typo.
I will say 21 is good as mentioned earlier. Take a good amount inside if possible next to the stove and it will help a little. You are okay.

While getting 20% or below at the center is great and you can’t go wrong with that. The “official” method to get 20% is to take 3 readings (1/4 in on both sides and one on the center) and then average them. At least that’s something I’ve read on here before. If the center is 23% you are probably at or below 20% on average and it will burn ok, not perfect, but nothing to worry about.


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[SpaceBus]

Just leave the door open on nice days. In the future give the wood a year outside and then bring it into your wood shed at the end of your burning season. In other words, restock your wood shed every spring. This will keep the spring rains off the wood and take full advantage of summer. Most folks don't even cover their firewood until it sits in their wood shed all summer. Sounds like your firewood is nearly at prime dryness and a few days indoors will be all that you need.

Post pics of your wood shed and indoor rack (when it's finished). I could use some inspiration myself.

 

[brenndatomu]

Check that Ash you are getting ready to process...the smaller diameter stuff from the upper half of the tree very well may be ready to go too...Ash dries well, Oak not so much!
21% is usable, 18% is better
You have already figured it out I think, but wind and sun are the key...for as long as possible, especially with Oak!

 

[Simonkenton]

Something is wrong, the wood is barely drying in a year. What is the shed made of? Please post some pics of this shed.

I am getting green hickory down to 17 percent in one year in my shed.

Now, the wood floor of my shed is 16 inches minimum off the ground. Also the shed gets lots of sunshine.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Hi all,
Last fall I built a new shed and put about 1.5 cords of split ash and oak, both standing dead when cut, inside. The moisture content of the wood when I put it in there (according to my hand held meter) was around 23%. Now, 12 months later, the moisture content is about...21%! Basically it seems like it would have been just as dry if I'd felled it and split it yesterday. The wood is on pallets, on top of dry gravel. The shed has a sliding door (not a tight seal) and the rafters are open to the outside on both ends.

I read a book called "Norwegian Wood" recently (probably many of you have received it for Christmas gifts?), and it looks to me as though I should have kept the wood out in the weather (with something to keep rain and snow off it) through the winter to let the wind dry it and then put it in the shed in the summer sometime (is that right? Because now I have a bunch more ash to split and stack somewhere.). The author specifically says not to do it the way I did it, sticking it right in the shed.

Anyway done is done and I'll be needing the wood fairly soon. Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Stack it outside for a month or something? Leave the door to the shed open? As I said, a lot of it is ash, which seems to burn reasonably well even wet, so I guess doing nothing and doing better with the next batch is also an option.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Cheers,
David

Keep in mind, that book contains a lot of information pertaining to the Norwegian Climate and types of wood.

Oak is something they very rarely get over there I believe and those techniques they describe are typically centered around less dense soft woods.

 

[RGrant]

Regarding the wood shed- If you're not getting the drying you want, it might be because there's a lack of airflow and lack of sunshine on the wood. A few guy's I've gotten advice from indicate they prefer the airflow over anything else.
If you're worried about the moisture content not from 23% down to 21% but of something at say 30% or more not drying should you get that in the shed- maybe let it dry outside in the air for the first year or two, and when its ready to go, put it in the shed to keep it away from the elements.

 

[lsucet]

When you have just a few rows stacked, air can be the way to go but when you have a big shed and many rows of wood air just doesn't go through. Heat at this point is more important. A combination of both is the best but not everyone can have the best of both worlds.
For e.g. a 15 x 30 she'd full of wood, the air just work on the first few rows depending on the orientation of the shed. I do think it is a tricky deal.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Is your shed oriented with the summer prevailing winds. And is your shed vented so that the prevailing winds can exti out of the shed and the air can move through the stacks... 1 % itsn alot of movement for that period of time..

 

[Chas0218]

Hi all,
Last fall I built a new shed and put about 1.5 cords of split ash and oak, both standing dead when cut, inside. The moisture content of the wood when I put it in there (according to my hand held meter) was around 23%. Now, 12 months later, the moisture content is about...21%! Basically it seems like it would have been just as dry if I'd felled it and split it yesterday. The wood is on pallets, on top of dry gravel. The shed has a sliding door (not a tight seal) and the rafters are open to the outside on both ends.

I read a book called "Norwegian Wood" recently (probably many of you have received it for Christmas gifts?), and it looks to me as though I should have kept the wood out in the weather (with something to keep rain and snow off it) through the winter to let the wind dry it and then put it in the shed in the summer sometime (is that right? Because now I have a bunch more ash to split and stack somewhere.). The author specifically says not to do it the way I did it, sticking it right in the shed.

Anyway done is done and I'll be needing the wood fairly soon. Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Stack it outside for a month or something? Leave the door to the shed open? As I said, a lot of it is ash, which seems to burn reasonably well even wet, so I guess doing nothing and doing better with the next batch is also an option.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

Cheers,
David

If you have a picture of the shed from a good distance away we can get a little better idea of what is going on.

 

[tadmaz]

+1 Norweigan Wood. I borrowed it at my local library.

 

[EODMSgt]

It would be interesting to see pictures of your wood shed so we have a better idea of the construction. Everyone has different ideas, tips and techniques so like the moisture meter readings mentioned above, take all the advice and get an 'average' that will work for you. I have a lot of airflow through my shed and have found that for me, air/wind on the stacks is the key up here in the northeast. I try to leave my stacks out as long as possible and don't fill the shed until the fall, just before the snow flies. It's a different story if you have 3-4 years of wood already processed however I'm only 1-2 years ahead at the moment.

 

[maple1]

I would certainly keep any doors open all the time, except maybe close them during a weather event.

Beyond that I think we'd need to see some pictures. Tight walls or a sheltered location will also hinder drying.

 

[Optimistic]

Hi all,

Sorry for the incredibly sluggish reply, heinous week at work last week! Plus, I wanted to get a little further on painting it before I posted photographic evidence. I'd used 3 different colors of tinted primer and it looked crazy!

Anyway, pics attached. The wood is on pallets, which in turn are on crushed stone. Definitely the crushed stone stays dry, but we do live in a fairly wet low-lying area. As you may be able to see the roof is open to the air on either end, and the door is not a tight fit. The doors face south. The dimensions are 12x18, I think around 12' high at the high end and 7' at the low end.
Based on the recommendations above, I've started keeping the door open on the wood side. Thanks for the all the replies, and interested to hear if the pictures will alter things!

 

[JohnDolz]

Hi all,

Sorry for the incredibly sluggish reply, heinous week at work last week! Plus, I wanted to get a little further on painting it before I posted photographic evidence. I'd used 3 different colors of tinted primer and it looked crazy!

Anyway, pics attached. The wood is on pallets, which in turn are on crushed stone. Definitely the crushed stone stays dry, but we do live in a fairly wet low-lying area. As you may be able to see the roof is open to the air on either end, and the door is not a tight fit. The doors face south. The dimensions are 12x18, I think around 12' high at the high end and 7' at the low end.
Based on the recommendations above, I've started keeping the door open on the wood side. Thanks for the all the replies, and interested to hear if the pictures will alter things!

I have a very similar wood shed with the following exceptions:

* No Doors
* Back wall is horizontal 1x8's with about an inch of space between each
* Sides are pine tongue & groove siding so far from airtight but looks good from the outside
* I used some 2x12"s from an old building on both sides (inside, spaced several inches from the pine siding) about 5' high - preventing my wood from smashing through the sides.

I found these to be a reasonable compromise - allowing decent airflow but not forcing everyone to stare at stacks of wood. Of course I have lots of other wood stacked outside for people to stare at so not quite sure what my point is. Wasn't thinking I would ever have this much wood on hand I guess. Then again didn't think I would own 4 saws - things happen............

 

[Simonkenton]

Looks like vinyl siding. It is a day late, and a dollar short, but if your walls were wood, the water vapor would pass right through it, eliminating the need for ventilation.