Wood Stove exageration ....

[synthnut]

Corie...Please check your PM ....

myzamboni .....I need the extra size to have a fire all night ....I don't want to have to get up every 4-6 hrs to keep the home fires burnin .....No, I don't need that much heat, but I do need that much burn time ..... Thanks for your comments though..I do appreciate them ..Jim

BB.....Oh Brother Bart ....Talking to you is like talking to myself !!.....LOL .....We BOTH do things in a big way !!.....I have a tendency to OVERDUE things more than not .....I have TOO MANY motorcycles, TOO many boats, TOO Many bills , etc ......
I also shoot a 44 magnum ....and have a pistol grip 12 guage pump near my bed in case of emergency....Of my 5 motorcycles, I ride my VTX Honda the most ...It's a paultry 1800 cc.....My Truck is a close to 400 hp Toyota Tundra , and when I went looking for a small farm tractor for my cabin upstate , I ended up with a Case 580 backhoe .....Sound familiar ???.......

Putting in a smaller stove is too easy, not to mention less burn time .....OK, so your stove flue sit's back 12" , and mine will sit back 13" ....Pretty close in measurement .......I know what you mean about the connection though, and I didn't realize that the blown air would be comming over the top of the stove ....I don't know what I was thinking ( I probably wasn't thinking !! ) ...
Anyway, if I have to cut down the legs, or make shorter legs I will ....Really all I need is enough room on the bottom to open the ash drawer right ? ..... "break out the chop saw " ....BTW...Thanks for all your insight .....You are saving me a lot of "hold my breath " moments !!...It's much appreciated !!....

 

[BrotherBart]

The really big problem you are going to have is heat. Lots of heat. Stoves these days can't be cut back to low slow burns like the older ones. Any kind of efficient burn in the 30 is going to be north of 500 degrees stove top temp. That is 455 pounds of 500 degree stove in the place and it is going to get seriously hot in there. With a stove like the 13-NC you can run it efficiently, still stay warm for eight hours or so and not blast yourself out of the joint. Save a lot of wood also. Our offset to that is hotter shorter burns since the house holds heat well and the mass of the 30 and the hearth radiate heat for a good while after the stove burns down.

There are several size stoves between these on the market that are good stoves also.

 

[synthnut]

BB,
Thanks for your reply ....I might just look into the smaller version as long as I can get at least 6-8 hrs burn out of it ....The install will be easier ( more clearance ) and like you say, it's more efficient and not blow me out of the house .... My main heating system is an oil fired hot air system, and I have a well designed wood stove attachment that works REALLY well ....I use it now, but it's more of a furnace to use when it's really cold out .... It burn's really large splits, but it's really overkill in a lot of situations .... The smaller stove is not a problem as I said, as long as I can get no less than 7 hrs burn time out of it ....That's about my sleeping cycle anyway ....I'm OK with that ....Thanks again so much for your help .....I'm still going to hope for a 30 , but if the 13 is in the cards , so be it ..... You've been very helpfull , and it's much appreciated....Sincerely, Jim

 

[JimWalshin845]

Babalu,
I'm seeing a lot of stoves needing 16-18 inches of additional hearth in front of the stove .... I'm not really sure if that's a heat clearance, or if that's a clearance in case you drop burning wood, or sparks , or all of the above ? ....Jim
Babalu,
My hearth does not come out all that far ...Not a problem though, as I have plenty of tools , and plenty of blue stone to extend the hearth ....I’m seeing a lot of stoves needing 16-18 inches of additional hearth in front of the stove .... I’m not really sure if that’s a heat clearance, or if that’s a clearance in case you drop burning wood, or sparks , or all of the above ? ....Jim

A 18 inch hearth is the National code and is measured from the front of the doors. From one who knows, rolling logs or embers can do a number on rugs or finished floors.

If you are installing 'ungauged' blue stone, be very careful that it is installed very level. A tippy stove is a No-No.

Happy Thanks Giving,
J&K;

 

[synthnut]

Jim,
Thanks for the info on the 18" measurement .....I'm not guilty of rolling logs , but I have put some ashes that I did not think were hot in a 5 gal. pale ....It was a steel pale so no problem ....................that is until I moved it out of the way, and put it right on the carpet that I just had installed a week earlier ......I won't do that again ...DUH !......Jim

 

[Gooserider]

BB,
THANKS !!...I thought maybe the blower houseing was mounted inside the casing like some units do ....Not much in the way of visuals on the site ....With the slope of the back of my fireplace , it may not be an issue ( I hope !! ) .Thanks for the heads up ..... Jim

PS...The top of my fireplace goes back 26" from the face of the fireplace to the back. The top goes straight back 20 inches and then drops down on an angle for a distance of 20" ...That 20" measurement slopes quickly, and accounts for the addional 6" in depth ....I don't know if I'm explaining myself well ....I should post a drawing but I'm a newbie and don't know how ...I have to read more on the forum structure ....????....Jim

Easiest way to do drawings and such is to make them in your favorite paint or drawing program, then save them as JPG files - if need be shrink them to no larger than 640x480, and post... If you have a CAD program (and there are free ones on the net that do a pretty decent job) then you are that much ahead of the game.

Gooserider

 

[JimWalshin845]

One more thing about the blue stone or tile layout on the floor. Make sure the stove's legs do not fall on or near a grout seam. We were considering using slate and I had done several slate jobs in the past, but because of the irregularities we went with a PEI-5 rated porcelain tile.

 

[synthnut]

Hopefully this JPEG will post

This is a rough drawing of my fireplace ....The bottom shows a the openning of 36 x 28 with the hearth in front ....
There is a view look down on it with the flue openning and there is also a view from the side .....Jim

 

[Gooserider]

The sketch is helpful, though I will let Corie and Mike answer on fitting the stove into the FP since they know the things better than I do.

It does seem likely that you will need to extend your hearth though. Code now requires 18" (or more) protected floor area in front of loading doors, although some inspectors are allowing less in "legacy" installations (talk to your local inspector for details on what he'll accept) I think going extra wide is good for safety. This doesn't have to mean sacrificing floor space or adding a "toe buster" hump however. It is possible to do a "flush w/ floor" extension in front of the existing hearth - remove the existing carpet or flooring, and possibly some of the subfloor, and then build back up with a layer or so of Durock and some ceramic or stone tile. I just did this, and ended up very close to flush with our existing carpeted floor, looks great and seriously exceeds code.

Gooserider

 

[synthnut]

Gooserider ,
Thanks for your input ....I agree that the hearth has to be extended ... From info here on the forum, ANY stove that I buy will need to have a minimum of 18" from the front of the stove to the front of the hearth .....Thanks again , Jim