Hmmm.... It sounds to me like you must not have much regulation about this - sort of surprising considering how rigorous Japan is about regulating other products. Here in the US, in addition to requiring stoves to meet safety standards for fire prevention, stoves made after 1988 must also meet EPA emissions requirements for clean burning, and many areas have made it illegal to install a non-EPA approved stove.
EPA stoves have the advantage of being much better heaters, they will give about 1/3 more heat out of a given quantity of wood than you would get from an older stove (what we usually refer to here as a "smoke dragon"), they put out almost no visible smoke, and deposit far less creosote in the chimney - many users report only cleaning their chimneys once a year, and not really needing it then.
There are two main methods they use to achieve this - the secondary combustion stove, which uses a carefully insulated firebox to keep the fire temperature over about 1,000*F and the carefully controlled introduction of additional air to burn the smoke; and the Catalytic combustion stove which uses a catalytic converter (or "cat" as we usually refer to it) sort of like the one in a car, to burn the smoke in a secondary chamber at a lower temperature. Each type has it's advantages and disadvantages, and you will see lengthy debates on the topic here.
They DO require that you only burn dry, well seasoned wood (usually cut and split for at least one year), no garbage or other trash, especially in cat stoves which are sensitive to having their catalyst "poisoned" or rendered inactive by the wrong materials.
As I see it, your question really has two different parts to it - how do you heat the water, and then what do you do with the water once it is heated. There are some threads on the forum where people have had stoves that they used for water heating, some for hot tap water (DHW, or Domestic Hot Water) and others for heating. However many of these stoves were also older smoke dragons. I'm not familiar with the stove you mention, but if it's a replica of a 1912 stove, it is probably not going to be very efficient or clean burning, at least by modern standards. The big challenge when heating water is to get enough heat into the water to be useful, while not cooling the fire down to the point where you either no longer have good combustion, or you start getting excessive creosote. What some people have done is to put the water jacket outside the stove, with a short gap between the stove and the jacket, so that the stove can radiate heat into it but not be cooled by the jacket. Having the water heated will reduce it's impact on cooling the stove, but not greatly - your water will normally never get over 180*F or so, and probably be closer to around 120*F. Considering that the firebox needs to be closer to 1,000*F and even the stove exterior is typically on the order of 4-600*F the fact that the water is warmer won't help a whole lot.
One thing that does need a great deal of care is to design the system with an appropriate pressure release valve in case of overheating, and especially if you are using a pump to circulate the water, designing a "failsafe" method to handle power failures, and other breakdowns. What I've seen described most often is to put a large tank in the ceiling over the stove for use as hot water storage, which is heated by convection currents, and which has a temperature / pressure release valve on it for safety.
The only modern stove I can think of offhand that is designed for use with a water heater is the (broken link removed to http://www.sedoreusa.com/index.html), which might actually work well for your situation, as it can deal with many different sorts of fuels, doesn't have a cat, and can be equipped with an optional water heating coil - only problem is that a lot of people consider them to be incredibly ugly looking.
Hope this is helpful,
Gooserider
