Wood Stove on fireplace hearth Q's

[Alive]

I have researched, but being a total 'noobie' to wood stoves, I have several questions (ok..more than several )

I have a fireplace opening of approx 30hx42w. The hearth measures 33D.

Currently, there is an older (but in good condition) quadrafire insert (full length stainless steel liner in the chimney). However, is isn't doing much for heat at all. The room it is in is approx 600sq foot, with 300sqft being a pre civil war log cabin (freezing).

With the current setup, it helps keep the thermostat around 57*, without the heatpump kicking on much. However, as the boss says daily, this is cold (and it is). My total home sq footage is around 1900. I would like to supplement a large portion of my electric heat (however, given im used to keeping it so low... All i need is maybe 64* in my main living areas). I REALLY want this main room (with lots of heat loss through the cabin and old windows) to be somewhat heated!

The fire also doesnt last long at all, even with the air control almost fully shut. (for my old quadrafire)

I am looking for basically the largest unit I can fit (freestanding) within my $1600-1700 budget.

I originally was looking at only rear venting models because I thought that was the only way to get the piping up inside the chimney.

I was thinking about the dutchwest midsize catalyst model, as I found it for 1500+tax local, but the reviews don't seem that great.

Any help / tips on what stove, or even just TYPE of stove I can fit in my dimensions?

Thanks so much, I need to get this house warmer!!

 

[Grisu]

Welcome to the forum!

What model insert do you have right now? Something does not sound right. I suspect it is more improper installation and maybe operation that keeps you from getting enough heat. If your aim is getting heat and not buying a nicer/newer unit than we can try some troubleshooting:
Was a block-off plate installed with the liner? https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/make-a-damper-sealing-block-off-plate/
Is the fireplace at an exterior wall? Would there be room to put some insulation around the insert? https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-got-around-to-insulating-my-fireplace.75755/
How long has the split wood been stacked in a sunny and windy location? Did you check some pieces with a moisture meter by resplitting them and pressing the pins in the center of the fresh surface?
Do you have any idea how hot the inserts gets? An IR thermometer may be helpful.

Your budget is a bit tough for a rear-vented stove. The High Valley 1600 may come close but there is very little known about it here. If you can increase it a bit the Jotul F55 and the Woodstock Ideal Steel would be good choices. You could also look at a top-vented stove with a low profile. Some people shortened the legs of the Englander 30NC to fit it in their fireplace. Maybe Brother Bart can chime in how tall the fireplace needs to be then. Since it retails for ~$900 that may be your best "budget option".

 

[Woody Stover]

Have you worked on sealing air leaks in the home? The 3M plastic window film works great. Weatherstripping around doors is another place that can pay off big. Are you considering fireplace inserts also, or just free-standing stoves? You want to put a free-stander out on the hearth if you can, not back in the fireplace, to get the most heat into the room. My stoves are rear-vented into a tee on the bottom of the liner, but a lot of the cheaper steel stoves can't rear-vent. You could still top-vent, then enter the chimney above the mantle. How much of that 33" hearth depth is outside the fireplace opening? Is that a 6" liner?

 

[Alive]

33" depth outside the fireplace. I have not yet removed the insert to check the interior depth. Im not sure of the model. I need to pull it out and check. I wanted to do the nc-30 route, but was weary of it sticking in the fireplace at all.

 

[jatoxico]

Which Quad do you have? You ought to be able to get some heat out of it. A new stove might give a more efficient burn but unless the Quad is really undersized it may not give you the gains your looking for heat wise.

 

[El Finko]

I have the legs hacked on my NC30. I can check later but I think 30" is too short.

 

[Fsappo]

Figuring out your insert and spending $1500 on tightening up the house, may not be the fun way to go, but it is the smart thing to do. Air sealing will save on everything, including firewood.

 

[Alive]

Took out the 'surround' facer piece surrounding the stove. It was "insulated" with some regular insulation, brick,mortor, and dirt....

Obviously a hack. The liner is definitley stainless though. Only problem is getting the liner to move from the stove. Cant get it out to fully pull the stove out.

At a standstill for now.

 

[Grisu]

How about some pics?

 

[Alive]

 

[Grisu]

That looks like an older 3100i. Maybe you can confirm with the dimensions given here if you can't find a tag: (broken link removed to http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/250_0640.pdf) Are the blowers missing or did you remove them?

Given the dirt on the top I assume the chimney lacks a block-off plate. Thus, a lot of your heat will go up the chimney and warm the great outdoors. I would also be a bit concerned about the integrity of your chimney. How does it hold up on the outside?

The liner seem to have a nut on the left and maybe other ones. Did you try to remove those before pulling on the liner?

Did you look in the insert whether it still has an intact baffle and the kaowool blanket on top of the burn tubes? (manual page 24) Without those the secondary combustion will not work and you will not get much heat.

 

[Alive]

There is no block off plate at all. The chimney is actually quite solid with no visible deterioration. Inside that I can get to right now feels solid as well.

The originals fans did not work at all. Bought some others, died within a few fires. I have some others in the mail, but my hopes aren't high. Any suggestions fan wise?? Most I've found are for the under the stove style.

The baffle and blanket are fully intact as are those tubes inside. That manual is definitely correct for my stove. Thank you so much!

The stove company (that only check the stove out) is coming back tomorrow for a more rigorous inspection. I will also be trying to pick up some sheet metal and roxul insulation.

Thank you - immeasurably - for your help thus far. I'm a city boy that relocated to the country a few short years ago and am still learning the ways!

-brian.

 

[Fsappo]

Are you ordering fans from the manufacturer of the stove? Also, that is a heavy flex. It may take a lot to push it up enough to get the insert out. Also, want to be prepared for that flex dropping once it isn't sitting on the stove top. Unless you have inspected the stop of the chimney, no way to tell if it is secured properly. If that liner drops, it will cause a hell of a problem. That flex connector should just be sitting in the flue collar. Could be years of rust, and crap kind of have it stuck. You can work the edge of it with a thin flat bladed screw driver, wiggle it etc. Maybe have a 5 or 7 gallon bucket (upside down) on hand to slide under it as you pull the insert out. Wear heavy work gloves also.