Wood stoves and best burn times

[shaman]

Hello y'all...

This is my first post. I joined the forums on this site after lurking in the shadows for about 6 months. (nothing perverted mind you ;-p just trying to learn more by reading as much as I can)
This is my first winter relying on wood as my primary and only source of heat. Last winter we basically didn't have a winter... this year has been a different story altogether. (I live in rural Kentucky)
I have a 22 year old Vermont Castings Encore with a cat combustor. The combustor element is 7 years old, but has seen very little use until this year. Most of the gaskets have been replaced.
I burn mostly hickory, oak (red and white) with some walnut and ash. My moisture meter shows most of the wood at between 17 and 24%. Not always the best seasoned wood, but it's hard to find knowledgeable and/or honest suppliers.
My question is, with a fully packed stove, just before bedtime, and the "thermostat" air supply fully closed, what wood be a normal length of time before I need to reload? Often I am getting up in the night 2 to 3 times to add more fuel. Usually every 2 or 3 hours. The indoor temps are around 63 - 68 degrees at bedtime and drop 4 - 5 degrees by daybreak. My house is 1900 sq. ft. with an open floor plan and average insulation.
Are newer stoves that much more efficient, with advertised burn times of 6 to 12 hours? Or are they just sales pitches? I read so many conflicting reviews that my head is starting to spin. I'm not sure what to believe...
Have you all had the same experiences?
I'd be interested in hearing type of stoves and other variables you have, and any suggestions that may help me learn what I'm doing wrong and possibly point me in the right direction.
I think I'm suffering from sleep deprivation!
Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

~Shaman

 

[venator260]

Not sure why youre suffering from lower burn times. My insert (2.5 cu ft.)kicks off decent heat for 4-6 hours. Three reloads a day keeps my fair to poorly insulated 1400 square feet comfortable down to about 20 degrees outside. I'm not sure I could push it hard enough to load every three hours without getting it so hot it warped the baffle. My 30nc is tough to get to burn down to reload every 8 hours.

First thing, are you checking the freshly split face of a room temperature piece with your moisture meter.

 

[Allagash350]

More important than the room temp is what is the stove temp when you reload?

2-3 hours is nothing with the air down. I would think 6 would be a minimum even on an older stove.

Either an air leak in the stove, or you are reloading it too soon?

The wood is on the higher side of the moisture content so I would think you would get a much longer burn.

 

[bholler]

More important than the room temp is what is the stove temp when you reload?

2-3 hours is nothing with the air down. I would think 6 would be a minimum even on an older stove.

Either an air leak in the stove, or you are reloading it too soon?

The wood is on the higher side of the moisture content so I would think you would get a much longer burn.

It is a 22 yr old vc it has lots of leaks.

 

[Tar12]

Shaman...welcome...it is true that these modern cat stoves kick some butt! You are long over due for a new stove! Post up pictures of your current set up and detail of your chimney set up and we can help you spend your money so you can sleep! Whats the point in running that old set up if you can't rest? I am far north of you and run a cat stove...I load mine twice a day to accommodate my schedule....I load at 6pm and wake up at 6 am and stretch and yawn and look at the temp...always the same mid 70s always plenty left to light off for the next load...if its mild out 2-3 pieces till I get home...you will kick yourself for not upgrading sooner! These modern cat stoves require and demand well seasoned wood for peak performance! This will require you buying in advance if you don't process your own...There are several high quality cat stoves available to choose from..my personal preference...Blaze King...Woodstock...they both have well proven track records and a lot of satisfied users on here....I am sure you will be hearing from them!

 

[toddnic]

There are many variables when considering burn times. The age of the stove, how well sealed it is, type of wood, moisture content, etc. Let me give you my scenario. I have a Progress Hybrid wood stove which is 4 years old. The gaskets are all good and my wood is very seasoned (under 20% moisture content). If I load it with red oak for an overnight burn, I fill the firebox 2/3rd's full; after 12 to 14 hours I'm ready to reload. If I load it with a softwood like poplar or hemlock, I will only get between 6 to 8 hours.

As old as your stove is, you really need to check it for leaks. The addition of air into the firebox can significantly decrease the burn time. Also, the type of wood that you are burning as well as the moisture content has a significant impact. Hope that you get it figured out! Wood heat truly is the best!

 

[maple1]

Too much draft along with a leaky stove? As mentioned above, chimney details & pics will help. After all the stuff I've read over the years on here, it's amazing how chimney & draft gets overlooked or not even thought about when apparent issues arise. It's factor number one when it comes to any wood burner & performance.

Whatever it turns out to be though, get it fixed. Even it that means getting a new stove. That kind of burning schedule is not good for your well being.

EDIT: Also, wood should not be your only source of heat. Or even primary. You can use it as primary, but you should have another heat source that can do it all without manual intervention, which would technically be called primary. Even if you go thru the whole winter without actually using it.

 

[J5497]

I burn a Harman, tl300. It boasts 17 hr burn times, I don't know how true that is but a full load at bed time and lock into the afterburn and I will still have a solid coal bed with a few partially burnt down logs ready for the next load.

 

[shaman]

I want to thank all of you who replied with all your suggestions and what problems to look for. These are pics of my set up.The top of the chimney extends 4 feet above the highest roof line. The pipe is a straight run, no 90's. Total length is approximately 26 feet or so.

I'm seriously thinking of replacing it with a new efficient stove, and also considering 2 or 3 ductless mini splits in select areas of the house. (mostly open floor plan)

After 22 years in the building controls field, I have an aversion to ductwork... especially when installed in a crawlspace. I've seen a lot of nasty *%# inside those things. Mice, possums, raccoons and all their "litter". Dead and alive. Nests made of pillaged fiberglass insulation. Not to mention the mold and efflorescence lining the sheet metal interior. I really don't want to breathe all that funk. I've done my best to secure the crawlspace, but nature eventually has a way of outsmarting the best laid plans. I saw a bumper sticker once, it said: "Nature Bats Last" How true...

I seriously need to get outside and get some work done. I'll address a few of your more detailed suggestions later this evening.
Thanks again for all your input.

~Shaman

 

[maple1]

Yes, that looks like a setup that would pull serious draft. And I don't see any pipe dampers.

Very good call on the mini-splits too.

 

[Woody Stover]

My moisture meter shows most of the wood at between 17 and 24%. Not always the best seasoned wood, but it's hard to find knowledgeable and/or honest suppliers.

If that moisture is measured on a room-temp split, which has then been re-split to expose a fresh inner face...17% is great, 24% is pretty bad and won't produce much heat.
I would post on the VC thread..those guys know exactly what to look at on these stoves when you aren't getting the heat or burn time you need. That said, they are challenging stoves to run and maintain..you have to be 'into it.'
The position of the top of your chimney in relation to other roof ridges could be causing draft problems depending on where the prevailing wind comes from but you didn't mention smoke roll-out when opening the door, or trouble lighting a fire when it is not real cold out...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2017-2018-vc-owners-thread.162678/page-9#post-2228500