I also have an anti-burp hole.The 1/4" hole definitely helps burn down the coals but I think its intended purpose was to prevent backpuffs. It allows a small amount of air into the firebox so that when the draft is turned low, gasses can't build up and cause a backpuff. It's kind of an "anti burp" hole.
Get a laser thermometer and monitor your nearby combustible temperatures. If they are approaching (whatever pyrolysis temperature is) then worry. If they are at or over that amount, make changes immediately. Perhaps someone here can put numbers to ‘ain’t nothing but a thing’ ‘worry’ and ‘stop burning now!’My ash pan door seems tight after the paper test I did On it. My anti-burp hole has a small amount of ash that comes out of it onto the heat shields which is a little concerning. Another concern I still have is the 150-175 degree separation in the stove top and stove vent temperature. Woodstock seems to think that is about average but I seem to think it should be a greater separation especially when running it hot. I don't think a stove top temperature of 650 should have a vent temperature of 500. I guess time will tell. I'm only a month into burning this new stove with no really cold days yet to judge the true performance of it.
I still have is the 150-175 degree separation in the stove top and stove vent temperature. Woodstock seems to think that is about average but I seem to think it should be a greater separation especially when running it hot.
With air completely shut, you're burning on cat mode= no secondary.
No, I don't think the separation will be greater in your stove when running with the air open further and secondaries lit, since you are flushing more heat up the chimney faster. Different stove here, but if I have the air 1/4 open, the cat is glowing plus there's flame in the box, and the flue is definitely hotter. I'd have to compare between a .5 cat-only burn and a 1.0 cat-plus-flame burn, and take note of exactly how much hotter the flue is, but it is hotter.I’m wondering how often you’re hitting 650. Is it a regular thing? Full load of wood? Big/small splits? Species? MC? Vent closed to what level? I’ve only seen 650+ a few times and only when reloading in a hot stove with a full load of wood, something I have yet to do this year. I don’t think I’ve touched 700. I tend not to need hot reloads until we hit 10 or lower for extended times...not just overnight. As you’re in Virginia, I’m guessing you aren’t needing the heat as much as some of us that are more climatically abused.
Same here. Different stove though. 16' stack, rear-vented into a tee, then flex liner to the top.The only time my progress runs that close on exhaust temps is when I forget to close the bypass. It’s normally 55% of stove top temp. Roughly.
In my setup, 25% open on the air is running the stove full blast. I don’t run it past that except to reload, start a fire or burn some coals down. I normally run it about 15% or 0% for overnight burns.
Get a laser thermometer and monitor your nearby combustible temperatures. If they are approaching (whatever pyrolysis temperature is) then worry. If they are at or over that amount, make changes immediately. Perhaps someone here can put numbers to ‘ain’t nothing but a thing’ ‘worry’ and ‘stop burning now!’
I’m wondering how often you’re hitting 650. Is it a regular thing? Full load of wood? Big/small splits? Species? MC? Vent closed to what level? I’ve only seen 650+ a few times and only when reloading in a hot stove with a full load of wood, something I have yet to do this year. I don’t think I’ve touched 700. I tend not to need hot reloads until we hit 10 or lower for extended times...not just overnight. As you’re in Virginia, I’m guessing you aren’t needing the heat as much as some of us that are more climatically abused. What do you have to do to get the stove to run at, say, 500? 400? If you do that, does your house stay warm? Are you using the Woodstock supplied magnetic thermometer (mine wasn’t terribly accurate) When at full temp and fully closed down are you seeing no flames, getting flames off the wood itself, or just secondaries from the ‘roof’ of the firebox? Have you seen 700? More?
The 700 degrees are a thing of the past since I have tightened up the ash pan. I'm able to keep it below 550 without any issues. I'm currently loading it 3/4 full and running on a 12 hour burn time. I'm running the stove fully closed down once the combuster is in engaged. I'm getting a 150-200 difference between stack and stove top temps. I'm also using a infared temp gun and it shows about the same. I'm located in WV and temps are in the low 40's in the days and mid 20's at night. I'm heating a 2200 foot house including the basement. I'm keeping it 70-75. I still get some smoke out the door during reloads but it seemed to improve after I plugged the ash lip holes. I still got some ash out the burp hole which does concern me. I'm getting settled into to using the stove and seem to be seeing better results.
Mine is currently running at 460 with exterior stove pipe at 220, about 16” above the stove top.
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