Woodstove in Ranch Basement. Need Advice!

[MazzNH]

Looking to add wood to my heating setup, used one for a year before I bought my house and I love them. I have read a few of these posts and the poster's circumstances never match mine so looking for some help!

Looking to do a Class A install in the basement with an air exchange but on the opposite corner of the rectangular footprint as my stairs. Would go through the basement window and up the gable side of the house about 16 feet.

General Details:
- Location is New Hampshire (Gardening zone 5b)
- House has been professionally sealed and attic and chimney area insulated in the last 3 years.
- House is 1960 sq foot, no high ceilings or anything. Mostly carpeted over the basement area.
- Unfinished Basement is 1400 sq foot
- Current heating is Oil baseboard and a 2004 Harman Accentra pellet stove insert in the middle of the house.
- I have a two year old and another on the way plus whitish rugs so replacing the pellet stove with a wood stove isn't an option right now.
- We have almost 4 acres and some good trees that I can harvest over the next 3-5 years. In a rural town.
- Have a bulkhead to get wood in easily

Basement details:
- Currently unfinished but walls are all covered in foam board. Would consider making some updates as we are using the space a lot more lately.
- No insulation on ceiling
- Ceiling is on the lower side, maybe 7.5-8 feet max. I think this is an important factor?

Goals:
- Cut down my oil bill dramatically and use my wood on site
- Fill the gap the pellet stove leaves when its really cold out
- Power outage heat (rare but still)
- Keeping the dust and dirt in the basement

Looking at some new stoves in the 2400 sq foot range. Maybe a Hearthstone Manchester or Mansfield. Haven't made my mind up on that. Not keen on cat stoves after a neighbor read me the cat riot act. Seems like that's all the local dealers really sell though. Still a lot on this forum for me to process.

When its under 30 degrees, the pellet stove really struggles to move heat around the house and the kids rooms in the corners are typically the coldest. The wood stove would be below this room. Also the bedroom doors need to all be left open at night and the noise and light just sucks. I'm good at tweaking things and making them more efficient so any advice or criticism is welcome.

Thinking I may need to toss as many of those little eco fans on top of this as possible to move the heat.

Thanks all!

 

[stoveliker]

No cat stove is fine, though cat stoves are not really more complicated to operate than non-cats - if you talk to cat stove owners here. (Somehow tube stove owners seem to think differently - without operating said cat stove.)

Nevertheless, a preference for non-cat is perfectly understandable.
Don't go by "xyz sqft" as that does not say much; you already list your insulation and sealing, so your 2400 sqft would need less heat than a drafty 2400 sqft.

Having the upstairs sealed is good, especially for a basement install; want to avoid negative pressures in the basement due to a chimney effect from air leaking out high in the home.

Not sure about the legality of going through a window.

Low basement ceilings are fine. A stove opposite to the stairs is fine too. However, for warm air to go up, replacement air needs to come down. This works MUCH better if there is a circuit the air can move along. I.e. up the stairs, but having an air supply to the basement near the stove. I have this: a register in the floor of my living room, a metal duct between the floor joists to the wall of the basement, then a metal elbow, a fire damper (! see below), a flexible duct down to the basement floor, there a (floor-, not stud-mounted) inline fan, then a register on the basement floor.
This way I suck the coldest air from my living room floor and deposit that on the basement floor. As a result I'm pushing the hottest air from near the basement ceiling up thru the stairwell onto my living floor.

Firedamper: you make a hole in the floor. The floor is a fire barrier - it can burn, but it delays spreading of fire by a lot. Making a hole for air movement equates to making a hole for smoke and fire movement. Hence all metal until the fire damper; when things go wrong, the thing shuts closed. Fire safety maintained (smoke safety relies on smoke detectors).

I have a 825 sqft basement, a 1200 sqft floor above, that I can heat well with the stove, and 500 sqft or so above that that is colder - but bedrooms, so we don't care. Main floor at 68-70ish means basement *ceiling* at 80-84ish. Second 500 sqft story is at 65ish. Home with decent (but not good) wall insulation, great attic insulation (R57, and well-sealed), high efficiency windows.
So, if you want to be comfortable in the basement, your main floor will be colder - unless you use the heat from the basement to provide a higher base level on top of which the other heat sources on the main floor modulate to reach the wished-for temperature. If you don't use the basement, you could truly heat the main floor with wood - but the basement would be "summer wear temperatures".

I heat my home with wood, or with minisplits (when it's above 40 for 24 hrs or more, given the long (and low) burn capability of my stove. I don't use oil (at all) anymore for heating, other than for hot water.

Eco fans don't move heat, they are toys (I have one).

If you did not put up wood at least 1 (preferably 2) years ago, split, stacked, covered, then it won't be dry this winter. And your (modern) stove won't like it, provide frustratingly low heat output, and possibly create a lot of (hazardous) creosote.
If you intend to do this, get wood (split, stacked, covered, seeing sun, and feeling wind), NOW. MAYBE (if not oak, but e.g. ash, cherry, pine), it'll be fair next winter. It would be good the winter after that. You really want a moisture content < 20%. So get a moisture meter.

Non-cat Brands that folks here like are Pacific energy, Osburn (which is the Lexus of the) Drolet (Toyota), Lopi.

End of brain dump.

Others will have more to say for sure.

 

[cahaak]

A larger drolet or equivalent will go a long way to heating your house. You need to leave the stairwell open for the heat to rise, conduction through the floor is not very good, but some will occur. Chimney and stove need to be installed to code.

 

[Eman85]

Do you have ceiling fans? We leave the ceiling fan on in the room with the stove and it keeps the whole house warm. If we forget to turn the fan on it gets cool in the furthest rooms.

 

[MazzNH]

Thanks for the info, had not heard of those stove makers. The shops around here seem to only sell cat stoves.

Yes this would be professionally installed. Have been told by installer through the window is fine with proper distance and clearances. Basically fabricate two-sided metal plate with rock wool in the middle.

Have to dig into the deets of cat vs non-cat. Seems some people here do like them. Was originally looking at a BK 40 as the sale guy said the thermostat is legit.
I have some wood old wood but need to buy some. Around here there's a ton of standing dead ash. Good call on moisture meter. Any general numbers on how long standing dead trees need to season or is that the job of the meter?

 

[MazzNH]

Do you have ceiling fans? We leave the ceiling fan on in the room with the stove and it keeps the whole house warm. If we forget to turn the fan on it gets cool in the furthest rooms.

Yes but not in the living room where the stove is but I see how that would help quite a bit!

 

[EbS-P]

What is the budget? Installed for this winter? Tax credit important? Are you a family that likes schedules and stick to them? Kids take time. babies set the rules.

My thoughts. Get the right sized Drolet. Great stoves and great price point some are still shipping now. Why go cheap. Save what you can it’s an unfinished basement it could be that way for a while. Spend what you save on a mini. Split heatpump. The AC for the 5-10 days a summers is great. not burning wood, even though you have it and could, when it’s warmer out saves you time. Read up on the Hearthstone stoves they wouldn’t make my list.

Use the fire dampers make the hole bigger than you think. A 6” hole relying on convection does not move a lot of air.

 

[rijim]

The foam board should be a concern from a flammability standpoint, make sure you exceed recommended clearances. I have seen test burns of various foams and most are not good.

 

[begreen]

All new Hearthstone stoves are catalytic hybrids. The BK40 takes an 8" flue $ystem. Stick with 6" stoves for lower installation costs and a more universal flue system. There are many very good stoves in the 3 cu ft range that will get the job done. In cat stoves, consider the Woodstock Ideal Steel, BK Princess or Ashford/Sirocco/Chinook 30.2, Regency 3500. In none cats, consider the Drolet HT3000, Osburn 3500, Pacific Energy Summit, Lopi Liberty, & Quadrafire 5700.

The main question will be whether the basement is a negative pressure zone. If so, there may need to be some mitigation steps to remedy. Most stoves are ok with a minimum 7' ceiling height, but check specs there are some exceptions.

 

[MazzNH]

What is the budget? Installed for this winter? Tax credit important? Are you a family that likes schedules and stick to them? Kids take time. babies set the rules.

My thoughts. Get the right sized Drolet. Great stoves and great price point some are still shipping now. Why go cheap. Save what you can it’s an unfinished basement it could be that way for a while. Spend what you save on a mini. Split heatpump. The AC for the 5-10 days a summers is great. not burning wood, even though you have it and could, when it’s warmer out saves you time. Read up on the Hearthstone stoves they wouldn’t make my list.

Use the fire dampers make the hole bigger than you think. A 6” hole relying on convection does not move a lot of air

Would like to be below $9k. Yeah installed for this winter. Tax credit is important if I'm spending that much. Less so if I could spend much less. I work from home so I can tend the thing all day. Are Drolets sold thru a dealer or just online?

 

[begreen]

What is the design for the flue system that connects to the stove?
How will the heat get to the main floor? Will the stove be located close to the basement stairs and is the stairwell open with no door at the top?

 

[stoveliker]

No, stove is in the opposite corner as the stairs, see the first post

 

[kennyp2339]

I heat my ranch from the basement, I installed my class A chimney straight up, built a chase in my dining room to hide the chimney pipe, then used a fire stop when going from the dining room ceiling to the attic, my draft is actually to good and had to install a damper to slow things down.
I also did a OAK - outside air connection, just be mindful that code says the OAK cannot be higher then the stove - meaning under the right circumstances the draft can reverse and the oak can act like a chimney and transfer dangerous heat from the stove into an unprotected pipe.
As far as heating ability - my stove does great in its location, I have a blower that I turn on once temps stay below freezing, I also put a floor grate above the stove with a booster fan sitting in the chase to boost the hot air into the upstairs, only use that once the temps go into the lower teens and lower (this is to keep the upstairs around 70 or so)
You want to door to the stairs to stay open, you want as much of a return of cold air as possible to keep the convection loop established. As far as stoves - go big, 3cu ft fire box is in your wheelhouse - is you dont want a cat stove look at the big drolets, pacific energy's or lopi liberty's.

 

[begreen]

No, stove is in the opposite corner as the stairs, see the first post

TLDR

 

[MazzNH]

I also did a OAK - outside air connection, just be mindful that code says the OAK cannot be higher then the stove - meaning under the right circumstances the draft can reverse and the oak can act like a chimney and transfer dangerous heat from the stove into an unprotected pipe.
I also put a floor grate above the stove with a booster fan sitting in the chase to boost the hot air into the upstairs, only use that once the temps go into the lower teens and lower (this is to keep the upstairs around 70 or so)
You want to door to the stairs to stay open, you want as much of a return of cold air as possible to keep the convection loop established. As far as stoves - go big, 3cu ft fire box is in your wheelhouse - is you dont want a cat stove look at the big drolets, pacific energy's or lopi liberty's.

Hmm hadn't heard that about the OAK. Will have to double check. You mention code for the OAK... isn't cutting a grate above the stove NOT code? I thought someone else mentioned that.

Looking at the Empire Gateway 3500 since that is what my local shop carrier. Made by Drolet I guess. But good call on the bigger firebox. I think a 3.5 cu ft box will make more of a difference than a smaller cat stove. Plus it is cheaper. I work from home so long burn times aren't a big deal.

I will say this cat vs non-cat, cast iron vs steel, brand vs brand stuff is not easy to navigate for first timers so I appreciate all the advice.

 

[MazzNH]

Also anyone know any basic code for basement door vents? Everyone has said keep it open but with a 2 year old this isn't always going to be possible. A door vent or louvered door would be sweet if its allowed.

 

[kborndale]

Also anyone know any basic code for basement door vents? Everyone has said keep it open but with a 2 year old this isn't always going to be possible. A door vent or louvered door would be sweet if its allowed.

Maybe put a baby fence in the door, you want it open on the top and the bottom of the doorway for the convection loop.

 

[stoveliker]

Unless the door is an official fire barrier (meaning you'll likely have to have an automatic closing mechanism that shuts it when a fire alarm is tripped), you can do whatever you want, I believe.
As residential doors are not generally like that, you should be fine.

I concur with opening it up both on top and on the bottom.

 

[Rearscreen]

Not keen on cat stoves after a neighbor read me the cat riot act.

Huh? I'd love to hear the reasoning on that. I sure was reluctant - at first. Now, even my cat likes the cat. I also find it curious
when people who live in NH sometimes don't even mention Woodstock where their showroom and factory is just a short drive away.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Just as a heads up. Your going to go through more wood heating a basement are trying to get the heat up stairs. As suggested in another post, cutting a vent in the floor and putting a decorative grate on top is probably the better idea.. Its like the older gravity heat prior to forced air. The heat will go right uo the vend and your cold air return will be the stairs.. trying to get the heat and cold air to share the stairs it tough

 

[EbS-P]

Working from home with kids I would be finishing an office with good sound insulation. Fire dampers and vents are probably quieter than a louvered door. Do you like working where it’s hot? Me not so much.

 

[MazzNH]

Huh? I'd love to hear the reasoning on that. I sure was reluctant - at first. Now, even my cat likes the cat. I also find it curious
when people who live in NH sometimes don't even mention Woodstock where their showroom and factory is just a short drive away.

He's really old school and burns a LOT of wood. Has had both. I've never heard of Woodstock until you mentioned it. All I know is what the local shops sell which does not include those.

 

[MazzNH]

Just as a heads up. Your going to go through more wood heating a basement are trying to get the heat up stairs. As suggested in another post, cutting a vent in the floor and putting a decorative grate on top is probably the better idea.. Its like the older gravity heat prior to forced air. The heat will go right uo the vend and your cold air return will be the stairs.. trying to get the heat and cold air to share the stairs it tough

Right makes sense but I thought that was breaking code from other things I've read.

Dampers, vents etc like they will be needed to make this work. I'll have to budget for that.

 

[MazzNH]

Working from home with kids I would be finishing an office with good sound insulation. Fire dampers and vents are probably quieter than a louvered door. Do you like working where it’s hot? Me not so much.

I work from home, kids go to daycare! I'm not crazy!

 

[EbS-P]

Right makes sense but I thought that was breaking code from other things I've read.

Dampers, vents etc like they will be needed to make this work. I'll have to budget for that.

Holes need fire dampers.