OK, so the economy caught up with me in the high country. My financial reserve for the new stove is back into "cushion", for the next 6 months. May not be entirely bad, as the wife NOW has decided that black, steel stoves are OK, as long as they have 4 legs. Plus, the PE Summit we wanted was 8-12 weeks out, 'cause they only do the "Summit Classic" in enamel colors upon ordering.(according to one dealer, who WAS pretty decent, and informative). Anyone else run into this scenario? Anyhow, now looking at the BKK , for the long burn times and I already have 8" flue pie in that exact location. Single wall wrapped in newspaper for insulation, but only in the inaccesible areas.(JK) No, really.(nod head up and down)-serious face
Sooo, I have to remove the potted plants from my old, double door "Timberline", which BTW, I've never seen in operation. I measured the box, works out to about 3.05 CF or so, fire brick is decent, new rope around seal, and it's heavy-black-and has four legs(gettin' the wife used to the look). I'm alternating between a Dremel Tool and various wire brushes to clean the residue before I position it. Finally, my questions to you good folk-
1- In the "Timberline" stove, there is a baffle plate angled up, from rear to front, that is approx. 1/4" thick. Would it be beneficial to make that plate thicker( 3/8", 1/2",3/4") and/or change it's profile by bringing it closer to the front of the stove, to help with the burn times?Those familiar with this stove know that the air controls are at the front of the stove, so increasing the resistance of the outgassing by elongating the plate may be detrimental. I don't know. My thoughts on increasing the baffle plate thickness pertain to heat retention. Would it make a noticable difference, or am I smokin' crack?
2- The Blaze King calls for a DBL wall pipe right off the heater. If I go this route, I have a funky height requirement. What are the thoughts on the telescoping flue pies- double wall?
3- Back to the "Timberline"- To cut clearance requirements, I'm welding 18g. sheet metal to 1x1x11g. tube steel in a square 4'x4' panel. I will have one metal panel on each side of the stove, stove being positioned 45 degrees to corner of walls. Air gap between walls and metal panels to be 1"min. Wall facing is a "cheesey" form of concrete stone, most prob. non-combustible. Non-combustable insulation wired into the metal panels, wall side and not visible. Will this work for the winter? I expect to have the old stove pretty warm until April.
4- Thanks for the effort of reading this, any advice is appreciated( except for "POOOOOOOKS- magic heat- nawwww, not gonna go there.)
Sooo, I have to remove the potted plants from my old, double door "Timberline", which BTW, I've never seen in operation. I measured the box, works out to about 3.05 CF or so, fire brick is decent, new rope around seal, and it's heavy-black-and has four legs(gettin' the wife used to the look). I'm alternating between a Dremel Tool and various wire brushes to clean the residue before I position it. Finally, my questions to you good folk-
1- In the "Timberline" stove, there is a baffle plate angled up, from rear to front, that is approx. 1/4" thick. Would it be beneficial to make that plate thicker( 3/8", 1/2",3/4") and/or change it's profile by bringing it closer to the front of the stove, to help with the burn times?Those familiar with this stove know that the air controls are at the front of the stove, so increasing the resistance of the outgassing by elongating the plate may be detrimental. I don't know. My thoughts on increasing the baffle plate thickness pertain to heat retention. Would it make a noticable difference, or am I smokin' crack?
2- The Blaze King calls for a DBL wall pipe right off the heater. If I go this route, I have a funky height requirement. What are the thoughts on the telescoping flue pies- double wall?
3- Back to the "Timberline"- To cut clearance requirements, I'm welding 18g. sheet metal to 1x1x11g. tube steel in a square 4'x4' panel. I will have one metal panel on each side of the stove, stove being positioned 45 degrees to corner of walls. Air gap between walls and metal panels to be 1"min. Wall facing is a "cheesey" form of concrete stone, most prob. non-combustible. Non-combustable insulation wired into the metal panels, wall side and not visible. Will this work for the winter? I expect to have the old stove pretty warm until April.
4- Thanks for the effort of reading this, any advice is appreciated( except for "POOOOOOOKS- magic heat- nawwww, not gonna go there.)
