zero clearence fireplace / stove ?

[jeff123]

I have a zero clearence fireplace installed with a 10" flu in my home. The manufacture says DO NOT enclose the front of this fireplace with glass doors, my assumption is it will get too warm in the metal fireplace.

My questions is can I install a fireplace insert in a zero clearence wood fireplace ?

How about a wood stove sitting outside the fireplace on the hearth and vent the flu from the stove out thru the fireplace flu ?

Jeff

 

[mrsmarv]

We installed a woodburning insert in our old Heatilator fireplace in September. Because of the type of fireplace it is we had to go with a zero-clearance insert. We got a Pacific Energy Vista insert, which will handle up to 1,500 sq. ft. The flue liner/pipe is 7" oval because of the way the chimney is constructed, but at the joint where it meets the insert it's coupled into a 6" round, which, from what I understand, is standard on most inserts. We were hoping to be able to fit a larger capacity insert in the fireplace but because of size constraints we were limited. The only downside of the smaller unit is that we can't sustain an overnight burn without getting up to feed the fire. The only "middle of the night feeding" should be reserved for infants, so we have to start from hot coals in the morning ;o)

 

[basswidow]

I am in the same boat - but my existing flue is only 8 inches and not rated for high temps.

I would think you would have to line your existing flue with a stainless Steel liner w/ insulation. Your's is 10 inches - so you should have more then enough space to do that.

Depending on how high it sits, you should be able to Put a T in the fireplace box off the new liner and tie into a stove on the hearth pad.

Mine is too small for an insert or atleast too small for anything that will produce heat.

 

[jeff123]

Are you thinking the gas / smoke that would ome out of an insert or wood stove is that much hotter then the fireplace generates which would require me to install another ss flu ?

Jeff

 

[crazy_dan]

the draft would be terrible if you were to vent a 6" outlet in to a 10" flue as the flue has almost 2x the diameter. This would also create lots of creosote. The insert also may not preform as described because they need a certain amount of draft to work right.

 

[jeff123]

Now I understnad

thx

jeff

 

[the_dude]

Jeff,

Also, it is likely that your current 10" is only rated for 1700 degrees. An EPA stove or insert will require class A pipe rated for 2100 degrees.

 

[jeff123]

My current flu is 10" double wall galvanized, the does make any diffenernce ?

 

[polaris]

In the real world who knows but as was said most z/c are rated for 1700 and modern stoves want 2100 rated. I would have a flexible liner run inside your existing one. It would draft much, much better and would be up to code. This is what I did when connecting a Jotul Castine to our z/c.

 

[basswidow]

Even though you can burn wood in your zero clearance fireplace, a wood stove will burn much hotter and will require a class A Stainless Steel chimney or insulated liner rated to 2100.

I am currently looking to line mine and then install a stove on a hearth pad in front of the fireplace. What I am running into is problems with finding the right stove. Those that fit this application - height wise - are too small for my needs. The other issue is clearances to the stove pipe too.

I may just decide to pull the zero clearance fireplace and flue and install a class A and the stove I want. A complete re-do.

 

[the_dude]

For some of you replacing ZC pre fab fireplaces with something high efficiency, you do have the option of removing the prefab completely and putting in a EPA ZC fireplace. This is the route I went because the largest insert I could fit was too small and I don't have the room for a freestanding stove in front. Just a thought.