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Posted By brack86svo,
Jan 26, 2013 at 6:51 PM
And what have you done lately beside stir up trouble?
I knew your post was rooted in sarcasm but, I figured I'd throw it out there anyway.
nothing. I like it that way.
not affiliated or sleeping with anybody...no claims made taken as Gospel, and I love the smell of bacon
Take note that the board RPM must match the auger RPM for proper stove operation. If you use a 1 RPM board you'd need to change to a 1 RPM auger motor.
I've been running the stove with this new board now since Friday. I was cleaning the burn pot everyday before. Now I ran it for two days without cleaning and the pot looked like I had only run it for one. So far, so good.
It may have a longer purge cycle during shutdown?
Keep us posted.
It didn't seem any longer. I think the burn pot wasn't as clogged up due to the stove staying hot, instead of cooling off and heating up. I really wish this stove had a pot stirrer.
You'll have to step over to the darkside to get that!
As much as I have moded this stove, I'm not against figuring out a way to have it stir as well. I know I need a pot with a rounded bottom and a auger motor. The rest I can fabricate or have my machine shop make for me. It very well may be my spring/summer project.
I was thinking something along the lines of this.
I'm doing a cost analysis ... I think I'd rather move this stove into the basement and by a newer used stove for a few hundred more dollars
You might need a new controller if you decide to add the agitator to this. The agitator on mine has a seperate feed from the controller to just run the ag independently from the auger motor. I suppose you could use the auger motors circuit. But becareful not to over load it or you'll cook the triacs. Maybe adding a relay?
Anyway here is a link to the company that makes these stove boards. Cool stuff there if you browse around. My stove uses the DHC4110 series. Chip is reprogrammable with an AVR programmer. Just need a coder on our side(hint).
That board looks like a direct fit. I checked the wiring diagram and it looks like it adds a plug for the agitator. Does yours have variable combustion?
Found the answer. I should have tried this board. I can do a realy with mine and make it work. I will just have to make sure it doesn't agitate too often and create an issue.
Yes, I wouldn't buy another fixed blower speed stove. So does the M55 stove.
M55 may work with the lager burnpot. Omega/Maxx-M(Mine) would have way too much power.
I may try the relay thing. I really do not want to buy another control board. I may also have to make my own burn pot. The agitator wouldn't be hard to make but, making the burn pot with a near perfect radius in relation to the agitator will be a challenge. This will certainly wait until spring. I will enjoy having my variable combustion for now.
What I was sold on by the DHC4110 is it has 5 trim settings for each heat range. Great for tweaking for different pellets and multifuels. Why, you could always sell this board to another breckwell owner. And move up to the M55 board. It already has the agitator control built in.
Are you going to order the Breckwell burnpot and agitator from their multifuel unit? SP6000 IIRC.
I thought this thread would have enticed a few more breckwell owners into looking for improvements. Maybe they all sold em off?
I have been running my Big E this way for the last 8 years[ HIGH /LOW] with original board and the new one Eric from Kinsmans sold me , once you set the damper to the right setting , I have never had any problems with fire going out. Just my .02 cents.
I'm sure I could sell it to someone.
I'm not sure wha burn pot I will go with yet. It would great to find a place nearby that stocks burn pots that I could buy and return till I found something that seemed like it would fit well.
Yeah, I would have thought it would have excited some Breckwell owners like it did me.
What setting do you run the stove when on high?
I'm betting your high is heat range 2. The damper possition between low and heat range 2 isn't that big a difference. When you go from heat range 3 or higher to low the difference is great enough(damper has to be opened more) that the fire will go out. It may be fine for short periods, but the longer time between low and high the greater the chance it will go out.
Some of the bigE's had ecessive air flow issues. These units had issues even going from low to heat range 2 and the fire would go out or smoulder enough to smoke the house up. Not to mention that the air flow issue was enough that they didn't produce heat as well as they should. These units were enhanced by putting a rheostat in the combustion blower circuit to reduce blower speed. help the issue greatly.
Your early bigE didn't have the issues the newer units have. Count your blessings and what works for you may not for someone else............ This will help those with issues. Cheaper than the route I took as I replaced my stove and lost a good bit of money in the process.
Ever wonder why Eric doesn't sell breckwells anymore?
I could kind of get away before with running 3 on high/low but, the fire would smoke real bad and even sometimes blow out. With the new board, I run 4 as my high, and it burns great on low. I'm not sure if the combustion speed is creating more heat, it makes sense that it would though. I noticed that the stove doesn't run very long on high and I seem to be using less pellets.
That being said, my thread should have said "for most" Breckwell owners.
If my stove didn't come with the house, I'm not sure that it would have been my first choice.
I run on 3 high , fire has not gone out since I learned where to set the damper, some times it will go out , but I find that the damper has been moved by my cats I assume or the cleaning lady [ I marked the damper shaft with a sharpie , so I can go back to right setting] , watch it go out tonight.
Nah, You'll be fine.