Harmon Accenture overheating

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Your convection blower is the one I was wondering about it moves heated air through the stove and into the room. if it isn't turning or the convection air path is blocked the stoves sides will get quite hot as the stove is not having the correct amount of heat removed by the heat exchanger and sent into the room.

There are two complete air pumps in operation with a pellet stove, both must be operating properly to have the stove running normal.

The fire in the stove should reduce in size provided the esp is good, clean, connected, and the dip switches are set correctly as the stove reaches its preset settings.

put a new esp in,,, no change, still overheating. put digital snake camera thru airways, no blockages, cleaned flue pipe 4 times.
 
put a new esp in,,, no change, still overheating. put digital snake camera thru airways, no blockages, cleaned flue pipe 4 times.


I am not talking about the combustion side of things. Did you check the other fan (distribution/room) and its air path.
 
Now for the $64,000 question what is the flame doing from the time the stove lights until the time you pull the plug (turn it off)/
 
Your flame should be getting smaller as the stove gets to its set point. The set point is measured by the room probe if that is the mode you are running the stove in or by the esp if in stove mode.

If the flame isn't getting smaller then the control board would be suspect at this point.

Now if the distribution blower isn't turning then the control board or the wiring could be at fault. Do you know if either distribution fan actually works?
 
Your flame should be getting smaller as the stove gets to its set point. The set point is measured by the room probe if that is the mode you are running the stove in or by the esp if in stove mode.

If the flame isn't getting smaller then the control board would be suspect at this point.

Now if the distribution blower isn't turning then the control board or the wiring could be at fault. Do you know if either distribution fan actually works?

flame gets smaller and larger pending feed rate. control board was swapped out with a new one, no difference . all fans are operating. if i start the stove at a low feed rate, i get a smaller flame which just takes longer to overheat. sides of stove reaches up to 175 degrees
 
put a new esp in,,, no change, still overheating. put digital snake camera thru airways, no blockages, cleaned flue pipe 4 times.
what are the dip switch settings on the board, please? and the color of the ESP probe wires (black or red?)
 
flame gets smaller and larger pending feed rate. control board was swapped out with a new one, no difference . all fans are operating. if i start the stove at a low feed rate, i get a smaller flame which just takes longer to overheat. sides of stove reaches up to 175 degrees

When running the flame should get smaller as the probes tell the controller it is getting closer to set point this is independent of the maximum feed rate setting. Only the temperature setting should control this. If the stove for whatever reason is not responding to what the probes are seeing as the current temperature then it is possible for the convection fan to run at other than the speed required to keep the sides cool.

If the convection fan is not of proper specifications it is poissible for the fan to be running at the correct rotational rate but not moving enough air to keep the sides cool. If you are running the stove in an already hot environment it is also possible that the intake air is above the thermal rating of the stove and the convection fan is thermaling off also preventing sufficient cooling of the sides.
 
When running the flame should get smaller as the probes tell the controller it is getting closer to set point this is independent of the maximum feed rate setting. Only the temperature setting should control this. If the stove for whatever reason is not responding to what the probes are seeing as the current temperature then it is possible for the convection fan to run at other than the speed required to keep the sides cool.

If the convection fan is not of proper specifications it is poissible for the fan to be running at the correct rotational rate but not moving enough air to keep the sides cool. If you are running the stove in an already hot environment it is also possible that the intake air is above the thermal rating of the stove and the convection fan is thermaling off also preventing sufficient cooling of the sides.
the thing is, the OP was saying the sides get really hot.......the Accentra F/S heat exchanger is on the back/rear of the unit, and unless its not working at all, I dont really think an offspec distribution fan would make that great a difference. I wonder if it makes a difference if the unit is running in stove temp mode or room temp mode? The fire APPEARS normal, so the combustion blower must be functioning ok (IMO this is the fan that *might* cause side heat issues if it were offspec), but, given the "normalcy" of the fire, I dont think thats it either........are all connections ok, especially the one where the main bus attatches to the circuitboard (the opening access panel can come partially unhooked)......Im basically shooting in the dark here, since Im not sure what the correct temps should be on the sides of the unit.....
 
I'm wondering if the convection fan is removing enough heat or if the controller is being faked out by improper setup or if there is a blockage even partial in the convection air path, or even if the stove is in room mode and the room probe is disconnected or sitting in what is in effect a refrigerator and the temperature set point is above that temperature.

I get very leery anytime a stove burns with a steady non changing flame when it should be a steadily getting smaller flame if the probes are seeing the temperature (this is true even if the auger motor is too fast). All of your stoves are supposed to back off as set-point is approached correct.

I'm also aware that a dragging (slowing down, overloaded with ash) combustion fan can cause a heat buildup in the entire stove but even that should result in a smaller fire on your units.

A multiple event failure situation is also possible. But we are all flying blind here.
 
I'm wondering if the convection fan is removing enough heat or if the controller is being faked out by improper setup or if there is a blockage even partial in the convection air path, or even if the stove is in room mode and the room probe is disconnected or sitting in what is in effect a refrigerator and the temperature set point is above that temperature.

I get very leery anytime a stove burns with a steady non changing flame when it should be a steadily getting smaller flame if the probes are seeing the temperature (this is true even if the auger motor is too fast). All of your stoves are supposed to back off as set-point is approached correct.

I'm also aware that a dragging (slowing down, overloaded with ash) combustion fan can cause a heat buildup in the entire stove but even that should result in a smaller fire on your units.

A multiple event failure situation is also possible. But we are all flying blind here.
yep, they all should back off as the set point is approached, UNLESS its in stove temp mode, as then, it just burns along at the same exhaust temp....again, controlled by the ESP.....which was replaced. Yea, Im sure the stove fixer guy is a good guy, but he's not finding it....maybe just time for another stove fixer guy or gal to look at it?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.