It is 2" thick high temp fiber board. It comes 1'x3'Pat53 said:snowman49820 said:I used refractory board to line the inside of my boiler. It works great, doesn't sag or collect creosote.sparke said:Regarding the top of the unit. I had the idea a long time ago to line the sides and top with refractory. I called Mark and talked to him about it. (This was a few years ago). He said he had already tried it and the issue was the refractory did not hold up, it cracked and fell apart. He said he had the ss needles in the mix of refractory. Seems to me if we line the unit over the hex tubes there will need to be a steel frame to support it. I am considering building a frame and lining the sides and top above hex with fire brick. Do you guys think this would make enough of a difference in performance to bother with? I am curious more then anything. My unit runs clean, my goals would be to decrease wood consumption, I would think the HEX would perform better with some type of refractory above it? Not sure if I have the ambition this year...
Bought my refractory and board from GM Refractories in Brighton, MI http://gmrefractories.com/index.htm
snowman, when you say "refractory board", do you mean firebrick, or an actual sheet of material? Also, how thick is this board?
thx, Pat
Jesse said:
tigermaple said:Jesse,
Great work, I can't wait till you get that puppy up and runnin. I wish Greenwood put half the thought in R&D as you did.
What is the distance between the top of the HX and your new refractory? I ask because I am thinking that the refractory will eliminate the need for any mid-season HX cleaning.
my boiler acted like this when i first got it ( seton w200 ). i called fred seton and told him my issue. he asked how tall my chimney was. at that time it was at 18 feet. he said to add 3 feet. i thought he was crazy but i did it anyways. sure enough the dripping stopped. i do feel that green wood is going to give issues regardless of chimney height but the wood your burning should be plenty dry enough.Trzebs13 said:Well I finally had to scratch my itch and light a fire. And the resuls are less than stunning. I fired it with 2.5 yr seasond oak splits and some construction scraps. And even after having it fire wide open for at least 4 hrs the thing is still dripping. I'm really puzzled where this comes from. On a good note the back (outside) of the unit seems to be much cooler on the skins. And I can't really measure it but It did seem like I got less tempature drop when the infloor kicked in. But not like it's that cold out.
Well that's what experamenting is about. If you don't make many mistakes then, you must not do much.
"issue"? I call that friggin' scary. Did you have yer custom made skins at that time? On the lid too?Jesse said:first season I had an issue with my top piece becoming saturated with creosote, smoldering hot enough to deform my top skin and liquefying the galvanized coating.
2.beans said:did you build storage this year?
trailhound68 said:"issue"? I call that friggin' scary. Did you have yer custom made skins at that time? On the lid too?Jesse said:first season I had an issue with my top piece becoming saturated with creosote, smoldering hot enough to deform my top skin and liquefying the galvanized coating.
Trzebs13 said:Had to break down and light it up this week. Oh well here we go!!
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