Hi
I am sweating bullets trying to come up with a wood burning stove to fit the only suitable spot in my great room. The problem is that it is a corner install. The wall in that space has a short leg of 46" and a long leg of 9ft. The 46" is at the end where one enters the room from a long hallway and that wall runs perpendicular to the hallway. The 9 ft run is toward a large archway that leads into the kitchen. In essence, the space is a triangle since that part of the room is used as an aisleway.
I'm attaching a rough sketch of the layout, I'm sure it makes more sense than my description. By virtue of the width being limited to a maximum of 46" it does make fitting a stove in that corner pretty difficult. A 45 degree layout is basically impossible, unless one finds a stove with very small corner clearances. The 11-14" corner clearances that are common, together with the 16-18" front clearance means that the floor protector would block the aisleway access.
One of the alternatives I am looking at is having the back of the stove face the 46" wall with the door facing toward the kitchen. By using a double wall pipe and heat shields, I should get a reasonable clearance on the back of the stove.
So here is my question: If double wall stove pipe and Class A is the same price, would it be OK to run the class A all the way to the stove connector ? The class A just seems like a far better quality product for the price and it has a 2" listed clearance to combustibles (even if the stove connector does not). I know that one will loose a little heat through the better insulation in the class A, but the draft should be great and it should last forever. I already have 18ft of Class A that I got for the run from the ceiling through the roof and I am considering if I should get another 10ft for inside the room. Besides the cost of the pipe itself, the adapters needed to go from the stove to the double wall to the class A add quite a bit to the cost. If I use the class A the stovepipe to class A adapter can be inserted directly into the stove connector since it has the same interface dimension as the botton of a stovepipe.
Due to more pressing commitments, we are not going to get the stove of our dreams right now, but are looking at the Jotul F100, Pacific Energy Vista or similar smaller stoves. Obviously, we need a stove with small clearances. The stove is not for primary 24/7 heating, just a small fire fire in the morning and a longer one at night to bump up the room temperature to a comfortable level and add ambiance. Our corn stove will run in the finished area down in the basement, where the HVAC will pick up the heated air and distribute it through the house. If both "alternative" fires goes out, the thermostat will kick in the NG furnace, which is on a programmeable thermostat. The great room is 16x16 and the kitchen next door is the same size, connected by an 8ft wide archway.
Any good recommendations would be appreciated.
Keith
I am sweating bullets trying to come up with a wood burning stove to fit the only suitable spot in my great room. The problem is that it is a corner install. The wall in that space has a short leg of 46" and a long leg of 9ft. The 46" is at the end where one enters the room from a long hallway and that wall runs perpendicular to the hallway. The 9 ft run is toward a large archway that leads into the kitchen. In essence, the space is a triangle since that part of the room is used as an aisleway.
I'm attaching a rough sketch of the layout, I'm sure it makes more sense than my description. By virtue of the width being limited to a maximum of 46" it does make fitting a stove in that corner pretty difficult. A 45 degree layout is basically impossible, unless one finds a stove with very small corner clearances. The 11-14" corner clearances that are common, together with the 16-18" front clearance means that the floor protector would block the aisleway access.
One of the alternatives I am looking at is having the back of the stove face the 46" wall with the door facing toward the kitchen. By using a double wall pipe and heat shields, I should get a reasonable clearance on the back of the stove.
So here is my question: If double wall stove pipe and Class A is the same price, would it be OK to run the class A all the way to the stove connector ? The class A just seems like a far better quality product for the price and it has a 2" listed clearance to combustibles (even if the stove connector does not). I know that one will loose a little heat through the better insulation in the class A, but the draft should be great and it should last forever. I already have 18ft of Class A that I got for the run from the ceiling through the roof and I am considering if I should get another 10ft for inside the room. Besides the cost of the pipe itself, the adapters needed to go from the stove to the double wall to the class A add quite a bit to the cost. If I use the class A the stovepipe to class A adapter can be inserted directly into the stove connector since it has the same interface dimension as the botton of a stovepipe.
Due to more pressing commitments, we are not going to get the stove of our dreams right now, but are looking at the Jotul F100, Pacific Energy Vista or similar smaller stoves. Obviously, we need a stove with small clearances. The stove is not for primary 24/7 heating, just a small fire fire in the morning and a longer one at night to bump up the room temperature to a comfortable level and add ambiance. Our corn stove will run in the finished area down in the basement, where the HVAC will pick up the heated air and distribute it through the house. If both "alternative" fires goes out, the thermostat will kick in the NG furnace, which is on a programmeable thermostat. The great room is 16x16 and the kitchen next door is the same size, connected by an 8ft wide archway.
Any good recommendations would be appreciated.
Keith
