NFPA 54 says 6 inches for the first 6 ft, or 90* turn, then 1 inch after that
Lil chip wood furnace?
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NFPA 54 says 6 inches for the first 6 ft, or 90* turn, then 1 inch after that
Should I separate the walls between the flu and the warm air vents? Or would all be in the same wall cavity ok? The interior of the wall will be metal studs and 5/8 type x drywall just as extra measure
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
@STIHLY DAN can maybe say what the code would be on that...I'd keep 'em separate just as a precaution, if something crazy happened you wouldn't want the duct sucking up a bunch of smoke,etc.
I see no reason to. the flue is sealed and the warm air vents are sealed. As long as clearances are met, thats all that matters.
Menards/daka pushed my ship date for draft regulator out another week was 1/3 now 1/10 but no guarantee. I emailed daka on warranty if I use a non daka damper and they said it does not have to be their brand, hopefully Menards will refund my money and not charge a restocking fee so I can just go get the stock volgenzang one for 12 bucks cheaper. I hope to have it all installed this weekend
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
This one is hard to beat for the money...quality product, and these guys ship quick. Also, this unit comes with the mounting collar to mount it directly on the pipe, no tee needed. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
Someone here a couple years ago was having issues with their furnace...and I can't remember exactly what was going on, but they had a VZ baro and I believe things improved after getting rid of it and buying a Fields baro...the OEM Baro on many quality wood and coal furnaces.
Maybe someone else here will recall the thread that I am thinking of...
Someone here a couple years ago was having issues with their furnace...and I can't remember exactly what was going on, but they had a VZ baro and I believe things improved after getting rid of it and buying a Fields baro...the OEM Baro on many quality wood and coal furnaces.
Maybe someone else here will recall the thread that I am thinking of...
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garmford
Member
Don't buy the VZ! I had one and now have the Fields. Worlds difference. Spend the $12 more and get a quality baro.
You convinced me, I ordered the fields should get it friday. Can I install it on a tee or is that not an option?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I got the chimney all installed, I was close, needed 5 3ft pieces and a 2 ft to clear roof got the fields installed on a tee and all of the chimney ran (minus last piece I have to change out for a 2ft) I will be doing my warm air differently than I originally was going to, more direct route. Shorter run. The front draft Control bracket looks like it's not drilled right? The holes aren't lining up with plate behind it.. I'll get a photo tomorrow. I redid the rest of my plumbing finally switching over to pex frim cpvc and relocating 2 drink to get the flu to work properly.. here is a picture with basement setup
maple1
Minister of Fire
I think I'd put a clean out T on the furnace outlet - rather than the elbow.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
garmford
Member
You may want to redo the opening you made for the chimney thru the floor. It should really be framed with 2X material and use joist hangers at the connections. Not sure if you're getting an inspection but if you are you will not pass.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I get the joist hangers, but why would you ever box out your floor joist with 2x4s?
Probably does need a radiation shield wherever it goes through framing though...
garmford
Member
I said 2X material. Not sure if those joists are 2X10's or 12's. The cross members that Razor is using as headers do not look like a 2X. They appear skinnier. Just easier to fix now than after everything is hooked up.
No need for a heat shield if the rough opening is the correct size and the support box was installed correctly.
No need for a heat shield if the rough opening is the correct size and the support box was installed correctly.
I Used 2x8 which is the same as the floor joists it has 2" + all the way around. Just no joist hangers its nailed through the outside 2x
garmford
Member
My apologies. The boards that are perpidicular to the joists look thinner than 1.5", must be from the angle of the photo. If it's the same as the joists then all is good.
Years ago carpenters made openings like that and never used joist hangers, probably because they weren't created yet. By today's standards there should be hangers. I don't know how long or how much weight the joist that you cut is carrying but it could start to sag over time. I also understand you'd have to remove your entire chimney to do add the hangers.
To avoid removing the chimney, you could probably get away with these on your header. (Look at picture)
Then put a joist hanger on the joist.
I would do this as a minimum.
I'm not nit picking, there's nothing worse that finishing a project then having regrets that you could have done something better.
Years ago carpenters made openings like that and never used joist hangers, probably because they weren't created yet. By today's standards there should be hangers. I don't know how long or how much weight the joist that you cut is carrying but it could start to sag over time. I also understand you'd have to remove your entire chimney to do add the hangers.
To avoid removing the chimney, you could probably get away with these on your header. (Look at picture)
Then put a joist hanger on the joist.
I would do this as a minimum.
I'm not nit picking, there's nothing worse that finishing a project then having regrets that you could have done something better.
Attachments
The basement span is about 17ft with one large support beam running lateral to the concrete wall in about the middle. Theread is just open floor above where I cut. The 2x8 are also about 12" oc which is why I had to move it over to get everything to fit.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Ooops, sorry, I guess you did say 2X...looking at it again I don't know how I read 2x4 into it!?
As I understand it, you hafta have 2" minimum no matter what...so what are the shields for then? I just put a new Selkirk/Supervent chimney up at my inlaws new house so I have been reading their manuals pretty carefully...although they are a bit hard to understand sometimes...my understanding is that where ever the chimney passes through framework (2" clearance) there was to be an insulation or radiation shield...
garmford
Member
No worries, I often these posts and think wtf! Then I re-read and finally understand what had been written.
I'll start by saying I'm no chimney expert.
The pipe need to be 2" away from any combustibles.
Now the support box I used requires an 14 1/2" rough opening and the support box is 14 1/4". The support box acts as a shield even if you're using a pipe larger than 6". Once you leave the support box then you must maintain the 2" clearance. I see that they do make shields but I would check you local ordinances before using them. I personally would only use the shields as a last resort.
In my application I used the support box at the floor to transition from stove pipe to chimney. Then at the ceiling I used a fire stop with radiation/insulation shield. My roof is made of trusses 2' on center so it was clear sailing from there. The support box and fire stop required the same R.O. I used Simpson Dura vent products including the 6" double wall isulated chimney. Very user friendly.
I'll start by saying I'm no chimney expert.
The pipe need to be 2" away from any combustibles.
Now the support box I used requires an 14 1/2" rough opening and the support box is 14 1/4". The support box acts as a shield even if you're using a pipe larger than 6". Once you leave the support box then you must maintain the 2" clearance. I see that they do make shields but I would check you local ordinances before using them. I personally would only use the shields as a last resort.
In my application I used the support box at the floor to transition from stove pipe to chimney. Then at the ceiling I used a fire stop with radiation/insulation shield. My roof is made of trusses 2' on center so it was clear sailing from there. The support box and fire stop required the same R.O. I used Simpson Dura vent products including the 6" double wall isulated chimney. Very user friendly.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yeah, assuming that nothing can be "tweaked" (can it?) to make it line up, then yeah, they missed big time!
