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oldspark
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This thread was about settings for max temp not flue temps, dont blame me. :cheese:madison said:"Asked and Answered", And demanded a retrial: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/61148/P0/
This thread was about settings for max temp not flue temps, dont blame me. :cheese:madison said:"Asked and Answered", And demanded a retrial: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/61148/P0/
Todd said:BeGreen said:oldspark said:I have a surface mount sensor so the internal temp at 600 surface is going to be at least 1000 or so correct?BeGreen said:sparky, no damper needed. The flue should be rated for ~900F continuous operation. A 15 minute foray up to 7-800 is safe and within spec. Let her rip if you want to get all 97K btus out of the stove. Ya can't complain about a horse getting up to speed while pulling back on the reins. Once the initial bloom of wood gas is burned off, she will settle down to 4-500F stack temps with a 700F stove top.
It's approximately 50% higher or 600 surface = ~900 internal. That is if the thermometer is accurate. Try moving the thermometer up 6" and see what it reads. Or take it off the flue for a week and just run the stove for heat. See if it seems to run better
PS: Hasn't this been discussed an awful lot already? I'm getting deja vu all over again.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/63355/
That 50% is bogus. With the Condar probes it's more than double and has been proven by many here before. I think even Wes999 used a digital thermo couple and it showed at least double the external temps. 600 external sounds too high imo. I may have a different stove but I rarely get over 350 external pipe temps when my stove is coming up to temp. Only when I'm in the bypass mode do I come close to 600 and that is a direct path straight up the pipe. Maybe that extra heat going up there is by design for the Summit and settles down later and may not even hurt the liner, I don't know but I think I'd worry about it as well.
pen said:The probe, well lets just say that boy is misleading.
pen
oldspark said:Pen, I often have wondered about something being amiss in the stove but have not had it apart yet as the stove was new last spring. If I load it up with oak on a hot bed of coals the flue and stove top come up about the same but it starts to slow down about 600 or so, if I load it with lessor wood (ash elm) the flue takes off like a rocket and can hit 600 wplhile the stove is still at 400. The stove works great (other than getting the temp up) and it seems like the draft is good but I wonder if it needs more draw to get the stove hotter. If it would warm up I would take the baffle out, I think there is a deflector plate in there, I wonder if any one with a summit has had a problem with that.
oldspark said:lillyrat, i usually do not get any smoke in the room but if I leave the door open when I load it and the load starts to smoke it will come back into the room some, I quit doing it that way so not a problem any more. Interesting that your stove runs like mine, I think the stove runs perfect except for the flue temps and not being able to get the stove top at 700 or so easily. Seems like more draft would make the flue temps worse but I think it wounld get higher stove top temps. After the stove settles in the flue temps are about 100 to 150 lower than stove top which sounds normal, just can not get the higher stove top temps with out the high flue temps.
oldspark said:Another thing that always amazed me was I can hit 500 stove top on sticks and very small splitts but can not get 700 on a full load.
RenovationGeorge said:pen said:The probe, well lets just say that boy is misleading.
pen
Thanks Pen,
Wow, if that means what I think it means, that's kind of eye-poppping.
Do you think this is relevant to the "Tonight, I miss my old stove..(BKK questions) " thread, where guys aren't getting enough heat out of their stoves--because they dial them down to keep their Condor probes from telling them their cat is over heating? (pant, pant, pant)
Just a thought.
you know. People always say those danged things cool down the flue too much. If your flue is always too hot, then this seems to be a reasonable solution.pen said:I think perhaps the only solution is going to be a Magic Heat Reclaimer %-P
pen
I thought maybe it was too strong but I believe it is too week for getting the stove up to 700 or so, seems counter intuitive in a way but the the specs on the chimney are marginal, 18ft of round 7 1/4 clay liner inside, two 90's (thimble and elbow) with 4 ft of single wall stove pipe. It draws well but if I had a straight up 6 inch chimney I think I would gain a lot of draw getting the stove hotter. I have total control over the flue and stove top temp now, when I reduce the primary air it stops dead in its tracks unlike others who have more draft and problems with over fire, that part I like as I can let the flue get up to 600 or so and keep it from going higher.Todd said:Oldspark,
How tall is your chimney? Maybe it is too much draft sucking the heat up the chimney? Maybe your chimney is walking a fine line and with a full load it creates a stronger draft than your stove likes? Did you try a pipe damper? Are you running wide open with a full load at first, maybe try 1/2?
pen said:oldspark said:Another thing that always amazed me was I can hit 500 stove top on sticks and very small splitts but can not get 700 on a full load.
That just doesn't seem right. How about a call to summit?
hmm. :-S
pen