New guy here with a few questions.
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A BK requires more chimney height due to needing more draft from lower exhaust temps, also needs insulated pipe so it stays warm and has proper draft.
You can add more pipe outside with proper bracing, but you do meet the minimum for the stove you are looking at. That would have more than likely caused issues with the BK and having smoke roll out the door during reloads.
You can add more pipe outside with proper bracing, but you do meet the minimum for the stove you are looking at. That would have more than likely caused issues with the BK and having smoke roll out the door during reloads.
how much chimney would the princess ideally require?
I found it,,,
"Blaze King recommends a minimum vertical chimney height of 15ft (from stove top to termination) when installing an appliance at sea level (and up to 1000ft of elevation)"
another question would be how much pipe per extra elevation is required? I did not see that in the BK princess installation manual,, is their a general rule?
I live at 7300'.
I assume that would also be the case for the Drolet stove as well? minimum of 12' is all it says on the website, doesnt give any mention of elevation.
thanks again
When your at minimums sometimes you don't know till you know how the stove will react, some have to add a couple feet to get good draft and some are able to use the bare minimum. With your short stack I would stay with an easy breathing stove, the PE's are well regarded for working on shorter chimneys.
The Drolet is an easy breather. It is a good choice here. Here is an elevation chart from Regency. They also makes some easy breathing stoves.
I had existing 13' of pipe when I installed my escape 1800. After reading through this post ( link below) I felt my draft was low so I added a 2' section to the top. Seems better. Others with 20'+ of pipe are getting STRONG drafting from the Drolet 1800.
Lots of info here
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Also a tighter sealed house will make drafting more difficult.
Lots of info here
Dialing in the Drolet Escape (1500, 1800 and inserts)
The great value of these two stoves means lots have been sold. The intent of this tread is to help owners figure out the best/ most efficient way to run their stoves or inserts. I think the simple design is great but I am wondering if the easy breathing nature of this design results in an over...
www.hearth.com
Also a tighter sealed house will make drafting more difficult.
Caw
Minister of Fire
Yeah. I have the Osburn 1600i (2019 cousin of the Drolet) on a 24' external chimney and it drafts very well. In fact it could probably use a key damper. I manage this by not stuffing it to the gills when it's super cold out and just reload a tad bit earlier. They are good stoves for shorter chimney runs. At 7,000 ft though you'll absolutely need more than 12'.I had existing 13' of pipe when I installed my escape 1800. After reading through this post ( link below) I felt my draft was low so I added a 2' section to the top. Seems better. Others with 20'+ of pipe are getting STRONG drafting from the Drolet 1800.
Lots of info here
Dialing in the Drolet Escape (1500, 1800 and inserts)
The great value of these two stoves means lots have been sold. The intent of this tread is to help owners figure out the best/ most efficient way to run their stoves or inserts. I think the simple design is great but I am wondering if the easy breathing nature of this design results in an over...
Also a tighter sealed house will make drafting more difficult.
You won't have any issues with the 1800. I would suggest an outside air kit, it will help your draft, especially if the house is tight. I love my myriad, really burns great. I use just over 3 cords here in MN burning almost constantly.
OP also has an offset that will lower the theoretical height. I would try it with what you have, add height if needed.
I was just showing my wife last night the stoves and that is her favorite one, the myriad 3 , she likes it and will likely be the one we order.
you are saying,, instead of increasing chimney height, add the stove first to my existing set up and see how it does?
I could just add pipe if needed later to the top of existing setup. and the supports as well
Caw
Minister of Fire
Not to be a debbie downer but a 12' chimney at 7,000 ft with an offset is just not going to be enough chimney. If by some miracle out works take the W but I'd budget and plan on extending it at least 3 feet. Just know you may need even more.
I understand, and am planning on it actually, another thing we leave 2 windows cracked about 2”
One in center of house opposite side of stove in kitchen and the other at north end , in a small bathroom
My wife leaves them cracked so we have constant outside air flow
Even on the coldest nights. All of our wind comes from the N/NW in the winter which doesn’t come in those windows directly. But they are always cracked open.
I think I will also consider change all the pipe and start with all new, I'm really not sure how old the pipe is, it was here when we bought the house and we never met the owner it was a HUD home, so we have no idea how old the pipe is
its all double wall pipe, inside the house then what appears to be triple walled galvanized through the roof. I am going to order some single wall black for inside, and stainless triple for the remainder through the roof and to desired height, I will get 15' height overall to start for sure,,, also I think with the myriad 3 stove I can actually set it to where I may not need the 2 -45's and I could keep the chimney straight, I need to do some more measuring this morning, but I will get 2- 45's just in case . the current pipe appears to be in good condition. I really dont know if I should replace it or not actually , just figured maybe I would.
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What do you base that on? A 12 foot chimney at 7200ft is most likely going to have draft issues. If they are already always leaving windows open then an oak isn't going to improve draft.
We actually leave the windows open just for fresh air, it was never because of the wood stove. Only because we like fresh air coming in no matter the season. But apparently we were helping the wood stove all along.
My neighbor has a BK king and he literally has less pipe than I do
Granted it’s 8” diameter
But his is straight up through the roof
Just looking at it it’s less than 12’ for sure
He loves that stove and I’ve never heard him say anything negative.
My neighbor has a BK king and he literally has less pipe than I do
Granted it’s 8” diameter
But his is straight up through the roof
Just looking at it it’s less than 12’ for sure
He loves that stove and I’ve never heard him say anything negative.
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Caw
Minister of Fire
8" pipe will draft even worse than a 6". Just because he likes it doesn't mean it's working properly!
Again nobody can say for sure without seeing the set up, how it burns, or sweep results but 12' on 8" pipe and a BK at elevation there is basically no way that stove is working properly.
Again nobody can say for sure without seeing the set up, how it burns, or sweep results but 12' on 8" pipe and a BK at elevation there is basically no way that stove is working properly.
I don't think the myriad has side shielding, so it will need large side clearances. All of the info is available on the drolet site. You can even download the manual, I believe. These side clearances may or may not be a problem.
I would highly recommend that you get the blower for that stove. You will need it to keep your flue temps in check in the early stages of a fire. We got a thermodisc with our legend too. It didn't take very long and that become unused. We turn off the blower as soon as the fire is starting to "cruise".
I would highly recommend that you get the blower for that stove. You will need it to keep your flue temps in check in the early stages of a fire. We got a thermodisc with our legend too. It didn't take very long and that become unused. We turn off the blower as soon as the fire is starting to "cruise".
I’ll look into the side shielding, it does come with a blower. 100cfm, If I decide to get the 1800 I will get the blower for it as well.
I cleaned the chimney yesterday afternoon and the pipe all looks to be in good shape
Needed to be cleaned too.
I think it has a 20" side clearance. Based on the little I know, I would want to exceed that.
It has a big enough firebox that loading is not a tetrus affair.
Once you load N/S I doubt you will never want to be restricted to E/W again.
And you can load E/W in a large stove near the back of the firebox for a small load long-burn. I cut most of our wood too long for E/W tho...lots of it 20". 16" is better for E/W in this firebox.
Our legend just idles along with secondaries going for several hours on a small load. With a large load we can go out all day when it's -30C and come home to a bed of coals and a house that is warm enough to get warmed up really quick.
We burn slow-grown aspen and pine. A 10" pine around here is over 50 years old, so it's pretty dense. Sadly, they have all been killed by the beetles. It makes ready-to-burn wood, but is sad nonetheless. Our forest is not the same.
You might be able to mount a pedestal on a legend, idk. I priced out mounting legs on an 1800 (I think it was) and it wasn't ridiculous. We like the look of the legs, so I was checking that scenario out with a couple of stoves that didn't offer legs.
Oh, and consider getting the firescreen. We use ours quite a bit for burning down a big coal bed while allowing lots of heat into the house. I'd say we use it for about 1 out of every 4 or 5 fires or so for this purpose.
I wouldn't replace a good chimney whatsoever. Why?
It has a big enough firebox that loading is not a tetrus affair.
Once you load N/S I doubt you will never want to be restricted to E/W again.
And you can load E/W in a large stove near the back of the firebox for a small load long-burn. I cut most of our wood too long for E/W tho...lots of it 20". 16" is better for E/W in this firebox.
Our legend just idles along with secondaries going for several hours on a small load. With a large load we can go out all day when it's -30C and come home to a bed of coals and a house that is warm enough to get warmed up really quick.
We burn slow-grown aspen and pine. A 10" pine around here is over 50 years old, so it's pretty dense. Sadly, they have all been killed by the beetles. It makes ready-to-burn wood, but is sad nonetheless. Our forest is not the same.
You might be able to mount a pedestal on a legend, idk. I priced out mounting legs on an 1800 (I think it was) and it wasn't ridiculous. We like the look of the legs, so I was checking that scenario out with a couple of stoves that didn't offer legs.
Oh, and consider getting the firescreen. We use ours quite a bit for burning down a big coal bed while allowing lots of heat into the house. I'd say we use it for about 1 out of every 4 or 5 fires or so for this purpose.
I wouldn't replace a good chimney whatsoever. Why?
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The only issue I can see with a small fire in a big firebox is that it also comes with a heavier stove that takes a little longer to warm up from cold. Our stove is never cold from October to April, with some fires in September and May, so not a problem here at all.
I feel that the heavier the stove the better, for us. I had a piece of 3/8" steel plate laying around that fit nicely on top of the stove which added about 60 lbs. It extends out on the sides and allows lots of different temperatures for various cooking/warming things. In conversation with Drolet customer service the fellow said that it was a good idea because you can actually warp the top-middle of the stove with a very heavy pot and a very hot fire. Very heavy, very hot that is.
There's a couple of things; make sure to check the allen set-screws which orient the eccentric door adjusters before you even fire the stove. They will probably be snug, but not tight. Tighten them to eliminate the drama we had with our Columbia when one pin moved and we couldn't close the door tight when we had just loaded a raging fire. Eegads!
Also, the door gasket will be spliced bottom-middle and will have a tendency to fray there if you don't do something about it. I protected the splice by just wrapping a roughly 2" by 2" bit of tinfoil around it held in place with a wee bit of hitemp silicone. It may sound a little mickey mouse, but it's not. It has worked will on both of our stoves.
I feel that the heavier the stove the better, for us. I had a piece of 3/8" steel plate laying around that fit nicely on top of the stove which added about 60 lbs. It extends out on the sides and allows lots of different temperatures for various cooking/warming things. In conversation with Drolet customer service the fellow said that it was a good idea because you can actually warp the top-middle of the stove with a very heavy pot and a very hot fire. Very heavy, very hot that is.
There's a couple of things; make sure to check the allen set-screws which orient the eccentric door adjusters before you even fire the stove. They will probably be snug, but not tight. Tighten them to eliminate the drama we had with our Columbia when one pin moved and we couldn't close the door tight when we had just loaded a raging fire. Eegads!
Also, the door gasket will be spliced bottom-middle and will have a tendency to fray there if you don't do something about it. I protected the splice by just wrapping a roughly 2" by 2" bit of tinfoil around it held in place with a wee bit of hitemp silicone. It may sound a little mickey mouse, but it's not. It has worked will on both of our stoves.
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My wife likes the pedestal look is why the myriad, over the legend, personally I like this size , legend or myriad.
I’ve got 20” of clearance on the sides as well
How much clearance would I want from the front of stove to the carpet?
Currently have 24”
This stove is lower to the ground as well compared to the myriad or legend.
We eventually are going to replace all carpet with tile, in this main room and kitchen area
Stove is on a tile pad currently
Same here, we burn from October- May
Stove will run in mornings right now until around noon
Highs in mid 30’s
Sun is out
No wind
By 5-6 it’s time to start a fire again
We like it 73-75 in here
This stove has to have a log thrown on it every hour
With only the pipe damper to control
It’s really ineffective, it’s either on or off.
Not able to dial it in very good
Stove will run in mornings right now until around noon
Highs in mid 30’s
Sun is out
No wind
By 5-6 it’s time to start a fire again
We like it 73-75 in here
This stove has to have a log thrown on it every hour
With only the pipe damper to control
It’s really ineffective, it’s either on or off.
Not able to dial it in very good
I just keep editing away. Sorry.
Here I go again, lol.
Check the front clearance requirements. But 24" sounds ok. That's further than the dogs like to lay away from the front of the stove, panting away..weirdos..haha. We just have a cotton quilt on top of their doggy bed and it doesn't get too hot. Haven't cooked a dog yet, anyway.
Here I go again, lol.
Check the front clearance requirements. But 24" sounds ok. That's further than the dogs like to lay away from the front of the stove, panting away..weirdos..haha. We just have a cotton quilt on top of their doggy bed and it doesn't get too hot. Haven't cooked a dog yet, anyway.
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