BrotherBart said:
Anybody ever notice that these busted stoves are inserts. Folks quit running these things at temps measured on the front of it based on what PE and everybody else tells you about the temps on the stove top of a freestanding stove. Two years ago I reported here about testing temps on my old insert. The front of the thing is 150 - 200 degrees cooler than the top plate. I did the measurements again last year with the 30-NC and the spread is larger. Because the air wash in the front to keep the glass clean cools the front of the stove.
So if PE tells you that running a Summit at 900 every once in a while won't bust it, they ain't talking about 900 on a mag thermo stuck on the front of it.
Message to be repeated in another two years.
The other question is if the front is cooler vs the back, why would the cracks appear in the front of the stove (where theoretically the integrity of the steel should be stronger because it is cooler)? I am not trying to debate the use of the magnetic thermometers, but I think they are used more for curiosity/characterization vs operation gospel.
What would be good to know are the details of how everyone is running their PE stove (eg. how many cords of wood burned, type of wood, length & diameter of flue, do they feel it is running too hot, etc.). From reviewing the threads, there might be some variation in use (eg. Nic 36 had a cracked Vista Classic that he said only burned one cord a year vs my Pacific burning 5 cords a year).
From what I have heard, there has been a design change, since the 2006-2006 PE were manufactured. Apparently, they no longer weld the stoves at the places where the internal welds let go (primary air/airwash). That might be in recognition that the design was in part responsible for facilitating cracking.
Either way, I hope that we can all find solutions.