The Monolith has arrived.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
The ash pan os useless IMHO. There are a few of us that have put a piece of Firebrick there. If you remove the smaller piece in the back of the plug, a full brick can fit (it should? I didnt even think about it, until I cut the one I had :()
I figured as much. The ash pan was never a selling point for me, anyhow. I might look into the firebrick replacement.

The one question I have for you, is did it come with the blower in the picture you posted? ? The one on the box? I just got my blower a couple weeks ago and it isnt anything like that one. Mine is a giant rectangle and has 2 squirrel cages on each side of the motor (center). Almost looks exactly like the Convection blower on my Quadrafire.

Yep, came with the blower pictured. Kind of looks like a messed up blow-dryer.

Congrats again.. That shirt looks good on you :)

Thanks.

Now all I have to do is move the Defiant into the Living Room and then move the 30 into the Summer Kitchen/Den.
 
I would be willing to bet you've said that before.

That is a harder question to answer than you might realize. I knew for a while what the idle set up would be, the biggest variable was could I do it on a limited budget. Finding incredibly good deals on the Heritage, Defiant, and Encore made it possible to get to this point far quicker than I had thought it would be.

And just to reiterate; I had plenty of heat with the Vigilant/Heritage/Encore setup. I went with the Defiant (when the Vig broke) and the 30 specifically to maximize the burn cycles, which will make this winter the easiest winter to manage the heat in this house since I started burning.

I can not possible go any larger than what I have unless I do some serious remodeling of the kitchen fireplace, which isn't happening.
 
Hope you wind up as happy as I've been BBar.

You certainly have played around with enough stoves, it'll be interesting to see what you think and how it compares.

pen


I think the North/South burning and the front load burning will be the biggest differences for me. Look forward to both, actually.

I fully expect the stove to kind of have the searing heat that the Vigilant had. It will be interesting to see if it feels different than my expectations. Also, I've never used a blower. Wonder what difference that will make.
 
Since I had always burned N/S I did for the first five years in the 30. I just could not get a E/W burn to work. Last year I said "damn it that is how it was designed to burn, make it happen". And like the results a lot better. Yeah you have to think more about how to load it but the even burns are worth it.

My mistake was being used to the thing taking off N/S like crazy right from the start. With E/W ya need more patience, something I have never been accused of, and let it come up to the sweet spot and go to bed. What every E/W burner already knew. With the little Jotuls the firebox's are so small they got hot fast and just burned. Not long, but they burned. That 30 fully loaded needed more technique.

Nothing worse than just about the time you are ready to go to bed and the back end of one of those N/S splits gets some air and goes nuclear on you back there. And everybody hits the floor and joins the dance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pen
Nothing worse than just about the time you are ready to go to bed and the back end of one of those N/S splits gets some air and goes nuclear on you back there. And everybody hits the floor and joins the dance.

When the crap hits the fan on the 30 do you just ride it out? I've always been a fan of pipe dampers. Would that work in this instance?
 
When the crap hits the fan on the 30 do you just ride it out? I've always been a fan of pipe dampers. Would that work in this instance?

If the stove is drafting strongly due to a great flue, restricting the air a bit may be more effective.
 
I haven't had it happen since I blocked off 40% of the secondary inlet. Approximately the difference between my 21' chimney and the 15' one it was designed for. One night last year it took off for the moon and I finally figured out that when I vacuumed the fireplace and stuck the hose up to vacuum the blower that day I had knocked the blocking magnets off of the secondary intake with the nozzle.

Give it a little time to see how it works for ya. New stove and all. You have been there. Then we will talk about throwing a saddle on a running horse.
 
Even with our most extreme event, our stove has not gotten shockingly hot. The Castine and the 602 saw greater high temps.
 
Jags, my situation is like yours. A big shop that I use inconsistently. How do you ward off condensation and rust, if you're temperature-cycling that shop? I find the only way is to keep some heat on 24/7, however low it's set.

I don't want to hijack a perfectly good thread...but I simply don't have much problem with the stove creating condensation in the shop. Hit me up on a conversation if you want.

Bro - with that 40% reduction does that stove still like to cruise at the 650F temps or has that been lowered a bit?
 
Bro - with that 40% reduction does that stove still like to cruise at the 650F temps or has that been lowered a bit?

Same temps and easier to hold.
 
Down to four stoves. The Vigilant was picked up early this morning for scrap. I have the new four foot wide, four foot tall wood rack set up in the "Gallery" (the large, 80' long hall that connects all the rooms together that runs from the foyer to the other end of the house).

Now I am waiting on the 6' round collar for the Defiant to arrive, I need to pick up some single wall pipe for the Englander, I need to apply one more coat of paint one the chimney that they Defiant will connect to, and I need to clean all three chimneys with the new soot eater.

Then I'm done.

This was still easier than last year when I rebuilt the Encore and had to figure out how to wedge it into the kitchen fireplace.
 
I think you will like your 30NCH, mine has been a good stove - one year under the belt with it. The pedestal set-up definitely makes for easier moving with the dolly IMHO. The large firebox holds a lot of wood too. We can obliterate a wheel bar of wood in the 30 without any real effort. FWIW, my 30 gets up to temperature very quickly and once I hit around 525ish, I get a smoke free burn. Generally, temps below that and I start seeing smoke. I like the ash pan on my stove, for me, it's just not as messy using the ash pan. I played around with closing the two air inlets that feed the dog house, but in the end just burn this stove as it came from the factory. I have never had an overfire and being a steel stove, have no fears of cracking or breaking anything. Pretty much, load the stove and let it rip. I have tried loading the stove N/S and E/W and prefer N/S. I think I get a longer burn E/W and it's harder to smash one of the burn tubes loading E/W as you don't have the blunt end of a split perpendicular to a tube. Even though my 30 is in a new insulated basement, that basement is attached to my older drafty house and there are doors into the old house - one via new to old basement door opening and the other is stairwell beside to the old house. As such, the old structure pulls a lot of heat from the 30's output and dumps a lot of cool air back into the basement. The result is I'm not capturing much heat in my house once it's produced. So across the burn cycle, I'm burning more wood trying to keep an even temperature. I find we are loading the stove about every 4 hrs if we want to maintain temperatures. I think if my whole house was less drafty, the heat produced by the 30 would go a longer way and the time between reloads would plummet. The front glass stays very clean and there is a goodly amount of room for a good ash bed. I also have a stove pipe damper - just in case of an over fire situation.

Good luck with your new stove.

Bill
 
I think you will like your 30NCH, mine has been a good stove - one year under the belt with it. The pedestal set-up definitely makes for easier moving with the dolly IMHO.

The only stove that was easier to move was the Encore and that was because I completely dissembled it. I was surprise that the stove was not bolted to the pallet. Kind of figured it would have been.

The large firebox holds a lot of wood too. We can obliterate a wheel bar of wood in the 30 without any real effort.

Well, now, that's not what I want to hear! :)

Seriously, though, I know what you mean. But, for the most part, I will not be using the stove at maximum capacity. During the day it will probably be less than half full. Two to four splits maybe. Not sure about the overnight burns, yet. I will need to see how much the mass of the stove plays into heating the area.

The challenge will be to not roast my self out of the room. Not too concerned about it. But, it will be something I will need to play with.

FWIW, my 30 gets up to temperature very quickly and once I hit around 525ish, I get a smoke free burn. Generally, temps below that and I start seeing smoke. I like the ash pan on my stove, for me, it's just not as messy using the ash pan. I played around with closing the two air inlets that feed the dog house, but in the end just burn this stove as it came from the factory. I have never had an overfire and being a steel stove, have no fears of cracking or breaking anything. Pretty much, load the stove and let it rip.

The simplicity of the stove was one of the reasons I went with it. I just wanted something I could throw wood in, cut the air back, and walk away.

I have tried loading the stove N/S and E/W and prefer N/S. I think I get a longer burn E/W and it's harder to smash one of the burn tubes loading E/W as you don't have the blunt end of a split perpendicular to a tube.

I've seen it mention that a longer burn will be had from E/W. I wonder what the burn time difference will be?

Even though my 30 is in a new insulated basement, that basement is attached to my older drafty house and there are doors into the old house - one via new to old basement door opening and the other is stairwell beside to the old house. As such, the old structure pulls a lot of heat from the 30's output and dumps a lot of cool air back into the basement. The result is I'm not capturing much heat in my house once it's produced. So across the burn cycle, I'm burning more wood trying to keep an even temperature. I find we are loading the stove about every 4 hrs if we want to maintain temperatures.

Wow, every four hours? I can relate to the draftiness and the frustration from getting shorter burn times due to this. I know I am clearly the last one to talk about insulation, but, you would think you would greatly benefit from that just so you don't have to load a stove so often.

I do feel confident that I will get about 10 hours of useable heat from the stove due to the fact that I am over-sizing the hell out of it.

Each stove needs to heat about 700 sq ft. If these three stoves can't handle it, I need to check and see who stole my roof...:)
 
I am seriously considering pulling the trigger on an Englander 30 real soon. They are advertised at Home Depot for $899, is that price expected to go up soon as the heating season gets underway? Because I see the Summer Heat brand, which I understand from englanderstoveworks.com to be the exact same stove, advertised at Lowe's for $1349. So I have a feeling the Home Depot price will rise soon, anyone know about this? I've been woodburning for over 35 years, most of that in the same stove, which needs replaced, so I am not up to speed on pricing trends.

Also, I have searched for this and even emailed englander stoves with no definitive answer. What is the distance from the bottom of the firebox (talking the Englander 30 here) to the bottom of the door opening? There are none of these models on display in my area, so I can't go look. That is the only info I am needing to buy one of these sight unseen. I see some posters have said they get ashes and coals outside every time they open the door, and even more posters say it is not a problem, the firebox is deep enough. If I know the actual distance I could make a good decision, based on experience with my present stove.

Hi to everyone, and thanks in advance for any information.
 
IMG_2074.JPG
The floor of the firebox is 2 1/2" inches below the door opening height. But there is a three inch air dispersal lip between the bottom of the door opening and the firebox inside the stove. I haven't seen any of these ash and coals falling out issues posted for the 30. I have for some of the Jotuls. Anybody spills ash and coals when they open the door of a 30-NC is doing something really, really wrong.
 
View attachment 72544
The floor of the firebox is 2 1/2" inches below the door opening height. But there is a three inch air dispersal lip between the bottom of the door opening and the firebox inside the stove. I haven't seen any of these ash and coals falling out issues posted for the 30. I have for some of the Jotuls. Anybody spills ash and coals when they open the door of a 30-NC is doing something really, really wrong.


Looks like the basement cat stole one of your firebricks.
 
I am seriously considering pulling the trigger on an Englander 30 real soon. They are advertised at Home Depot for $899, is that price expected to go up soon as the heating season gets underway? Because I see the Summer Heat brand, which I understand from englanderstoveworks.com to be the exact same stove, advertised at Lowe's for $1349. So I have a feeling the Home Depot price will rise soon, anyone know about this? I've been woodburning for over 35 years, most of that in the same stove, which needs replaced, so I am not up to speed on pricing trends.

Also, I have searched for this and even emailed englander stoves with no definitive answer. What is the distance from the bottom of the firebox (talking the Englander 30 here) to the bottom of the door opening? There are none of these models on display in my area, so I can't go look. That is the only info I am needing to buy one of these sight unseen. I see some posters have said they get ashes and coals outside every time they open the door, and even more posters say it is not a problem, the firebox is deep enough. If I know the actual distance I could make a good decision, based on experience with my present stove.

Hi to everyone, and thanks in advance for any information.

No ash or coal problem.. Its a pretty deep stove (although its not a King!).

If you search Englander 30-NC in the search box above, there should be plenty of info to.keep you busy for a week or so ;)

Good stove in my opinion. It was my 1st yr with it last season... Loved it.

Welcome to the Forums.
 
Looks like the basement cat stole one of your firebricks.

That is the ash pan plug. The pic is from 2006 when I bought the first stove. That plug now lives on a shelf in the garage. Along with the "doghouse".
 
That is the ash pan plug. That plug now lives on a shelf in the garage. Along with the "doghouse".

Removing that plug last winter is a decision I have not regretted one bit.

pen
 
What does removing the "dog house" do?
 
Like the secondary air up top, by removing the dog-house, you remove another air supply that is uncontrollable (Read: EPA).

Keeping it or tossing it depends on your setup. For the draft that my stove sees, I like having it there.

For me, blocking it means having to adjust the air more frequently or else I'll wind up with a large amount of coals and can't reload as often as I need.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch.... any fires yet bbar?

pen
 
What does removing the "dog house" do?

Pretty much it means you have to be responsible for making sure there is enough primary air. You can no longer shut primary air all the way down. You regulate how much comes into the front of the fire. In my case it also means that all primary air has to come through the airwash and cleaning the glass became a once a every month or so wipe with a wet paper towel.

Some people have done it and hated it. Some liked it. Different stokes for different folks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.