Raising the lintel for Progress Hybrid

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Googs185

Member
Nov 15, 2016
35
South Central CT
Raising the lintel for Progress Hybrid Raising the lintel for Progress Hybrid Raising the lintel for Progress Hybrid
so I have a progress hybrid sitting in my garage and a mason coming to install stone over my existing brick fireplace and after a lot of measuring I realized that with my hearth pad being 1.5”, the exit flue is going to be about 2.25” too high to fit through my fireplace! I don’t want to use the short legs and I’m set on the ash pan. I’ve read a lot of forum posts on raising the lintel. My mason is coming tomorrow to look at what we’re dealing with but I’d like to get your advice as well. I’m posting some pictures so you can see but basically I think the lintel is the piece of angle iron right under the first course of bricks. Then there is the flue. Will it be possible to raise the lintel 3 inches? Is it going to be really expensive to do? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
View attachment 230227 View attachment 230224 View attachment 230225 so I have a progress hybrid sitting in my garage and a mason coming to install stone over my existing brick fireplace and after a lot of measuring I realized that with my hearth pad being 1.5”, the exit flue is going to be about 2.25” too high to fit through my fireplace! I don’t want to use the short legs and I’m set on the ash pan. I’ve read a lot of forum posts on raising the lintel. My mason is coming tomorrow to look at what we’re dealing with but I’d like to get your advice as well. I’m posting some pictures so you can see but basically I think the lintel is the piece of angle iron right under the first course of bricks. Then there is the flue. Will it be possible to raise the lintel 3 inches? Is it going to be really expensive to do? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Money can fix any problem. You already mentioned the simple solution, so long as the short leg kit fits.

I personally find ash pans to be more hassle than they are worth. Have you had good experiences with them in the past?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Easy Livin’ 3000
Money can fix any problem. You already mentioned the simple solution, so long as the short leg kit fits.

I personally find ash pans to be more hassle than they are worth. Have you had good experiences with them in the past?

My dad has the process hybrid and loves his ash pan. From what I’ve read, it’s one of the best in the business.
 
My dad has the process hybrid and loves his ash pan. From what I’ve read, it’s one of the best in the business.

Curious to hear what the mason gives you for a solution.
 
Do you think it’s feasible to move it up?

I doubt it will be cheap.

Let us know what he recommends and what your heating goals are after that.

Good luck
 
Do you think it’s feasible to move it up?
Yeah it can be moved. While your at it i would cut the damper frame out and try to get the liner back to round. Then install a blockoff plate.
 
Yeah it can be moved. While your at it i would cut the damper frame out and try to get the liner back to round. Then install a blockoff plate.

You seem knowledgeable about this. Is it going to be very difficult/expensive and could the mason do this? Is all of that metal up there that tapers part of the damper frame? And I don't need the damper frame at all? Is a blockoff plate hard to install?


I see you have a Regency 3100, that's the insert I just took out to replace with PH! It pumps out a lot of heat though!
 
If you can do it it will be worth it to be able to use the PH ash pan. I couldn't do mine at a cost that was feasible so I used the short legs.
 
You seem knowledgeable about this. Is it going to be very difficult/expensive and could the mason do this? Is all of that metal up there that tapers part of the damper frame? And I don't need the damper frame at all? Is a blockoff plate hard to install?


I see you have a Regency 3100, that's the insert I just took out to replace with PH! It pumps out a lot of heat though!
I dont know your mason. Some of them could do it easily. And others absolutly not

Yes all of that angled metal is the damper frame. It should have been cut out initially instead of smashing the pipe down to fit through.

My regency is the freestanding one not the insert. But basically the same stove.
 
I dont know your mason. Some of them could do it easily. And others absolutly not

Yes all of that angled metal is the damper frame. It should have been cut out initially instead of smashing the pipe down to fit through.


My regency is the freestanding one not the insert. But basically the same stove.


Thank you for the tip. So all of that metal up in there can be cut out with an angle grinder-how is it attached? Or what method would you use?

Nice. I really liked the insert and it was really nice looking. It actually came with my house when I bought it. But we have almost no insulation (block construction with stucco built in 1949) so it was hard to get the heat to move around. I'm hoping a free standing stove will radiate more heat back into our bedrooms since it is in the line of sight since it will be much further out.
 
Last edited:
Nice. I really liked the insert and it was really nice looking. It actually came with my house when I bought it. But we have almost no insulation (block construction with stucco built in 1949) so it was hard to get the heat to move around. I'm hoping a free standing stove will radiate more heat back into our bedrooms since it is in the line of sight since it will be much further out.
It will be a little better much more benifit than those gains will be the ability to have lower more even heat because of the cat in the progress. Non cats can work well in the right situation but it is easy to overheat the stove room due to lack of enough circulation. Cats are easier in that respect because the heat is not as intense but more even over the burn.
 
How much did they quote you and how much did you need to raise yours? I only need to raise it 3"
It was a free years ago so off the top of my head I dont remember.
 
For us to move a lintel up it would cost between 500 and 1000. In your case because it will be covered with stone after the fact it would be on the lower side for sure.
 
Thank you for the expectation. Will we have to remove the whole metal framing in there?
No just enough that the liner fits. Becausecyou will be covering it i would put the new lintel on the face making it much easier
 
No just enough that the liner fits. Becausecyou will be covering it i would put the new lintel on the face making it much easier

What do you mean put the lintel on the face? Doesn't it need to be under a course of bricks for support? Do the bricks need to be supported while the lintel is removed?
 
What do you mean put the lintel on the face? Doesn't it need to be under a course of bricks for support? Do the bricks need to be supported while the lintel is removed?
In order to get a new lintel in on the inside the way it is now you have to take the top of the firebox down to make room. Because you are putting stone on the face i would cut a groove for the new lintel on the outside face and slide it into place. Then cut out the old one and remove the brick below the new lintel. I would do the same if i was putting it inside but would pull the one that is outside after sliding the new one in from the back.
 
In order to get a new lintel in on the inside the way it is now you have to take the top of the firebox down to make room. Because you are putting stone on the face i would cut a groove for the new lintel on the outside face and slide it into place. Then cut out the old one and remove the brick below the new lintel. I would do the same if i was putting it inside but would pull the one that is outside after sliding the new one in from the back.

Is the firebox the metal frame that is in there? And currently the lintel is angle iron ( I think- can you see in the pics?) I don't think the angle iron will fit through the groove right? What would you use to cut the groove?
 
Is the firebox the metal frame that is in there? And currently the lintel is angle iron ( I think- can you see in the pics?) I don't think the angle iron will fit through the groove right? What would you use to cut the groove?
The firebox is the yellow brick inside. I would use a masonry blade in a circular saw to cut the groove. And i would make it big enough for the angle to fit in
 
  • Like
Reactions: Googs185
The firebox is the yellow brick inside. I would use a masonry blade in a circular saw to cut the groove. And i would make it big enough for the angle to fit in

So the mason said he can do it but he wants me to angle grind the damper and frame out. What kind of person can I call to do this? If we do this and raise the lintel will we never be able to use it as a fireplace again? The mason said no but there must be some way to add a damper again in the future.
 
So the mason said he can do it but he wants me to angle grind the damper and frame out. What kind of person can I call to do this? If we do this and raise the lintel will we never be able to use it as a fireplace again? The mason said no but there must be some way to add a damper again in the future.
A chimney sweep can fix the install. And yes you could put a top sealing damper in if you ever wanted to go back to an open fireplace. Or if it is cut nicely it could be repaired. But the added height may cause smoke issues