Replacement procedure for breckwell p24 auger motor

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nhyrum

Member
Dec 6, 2016
26
loc
So, my stove jams up all the time. Multiple times a day, go out to see a dead fire and burn pot empty(or sometimes half full, since it worked itself clear) other times I have to grab a pair of vice grips and clamp onto the shaft and turn it through the jam. It usually doesn't take much force.

So. Time for that motor to go. I'm about to order a new one. I've got the ccw rotation motor. How do I get the bugger out, and the new bugger in? Looks like it should be simple enough.

A saw somewhere a thread where a gentleman bought a similar motor but was a higher quality, higher torque, etc. Same footprint, shaft, etc, but I believe it had to be pieced together? Or maybe the shaft needed to be modified?
 
If you open up the back of the stove, locate the old auger motor where it connects to the auger shaft you will see a pin that goes through both the motor shaft and auger shaft pull that pin and it should almost fall into your hand.
 
I see no pin. I believe it has a set screw. I believe the stove was made in 94

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Then you would have to loosen the set screw to remove it.
 
Hopfully you ordered new bushings for the auger.. The bushings are probably warn out and causing part of your issues. My stove is a 04 and bushings needed to be replaced.
 
Hopfully you ordered new bushings for the auger.. The bushings are probably warn out and causing part of your issues. My stove is a 04 and bushings needed to be replaced.
I did not. But you are right, they're probably shot. How difficult are they to get to? Mine being 20 years older, I'm sure it's a like different

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Took me about 20 min to change out.. I have a big e so the setup may be slightly different.. one of mine was bound up it was so bad...

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So, I got my Gleason Avery motor today. A little hiccup getting the old motor out. There appears to be a pvc pipe bushing in there. It's, of course all stripped. Now, the motor hangs down, so it's almost touching the bottom plate(the auger shaft, yes, has idiot marks on it. It binds up multiple times daily, so to unjam it, simply lock vice grips on, hit the manual feed button and help the auger through the jam.)so, I can't pull the motor out. I assume I need to replace the bushing(only one I've found is 100 bucks, that's what I paid for the friggin motor) so, how do I remove the motor? I see two bolts that hold a plate where the bushing is, I assume I gotta take those out. Which means, an empty, not completely topped off hopper will be nice...

Any ideas? Where can I get a bushing for cheaper than 100 bucks?
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Somebody stuck a 29 cent pipe fitting in there,because they did not want to repair the stove properly.You have a new motor,get a new lower and upper bushing,then you should be good to go for a few years.Looking at the debris in your convection fan,amazing you have not had a fire.
 
Looking at the debris in your convection fan,amazing you have not had a fire.

Thanks for pointing that out, I cleaned that up a little.

From my looking, the upper bushing (possibly lower too) are about 10 bucks, if I don't need threaded. Threaded was about 70. I could get a new bottom cap for 99.

I'm sure once I get it apart, it will make sense, but where does the upper bushing reside, and how do I get to it?

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Bob was right that is a pipe fitting. Breckwell uses bronze bushings top and bottom. Not to mention the shouldered end of the bushing should be on the hopper side of the buscuit plate. That keeps the top of the auger shaft in the upper bushing. The top bushing can be had for 10-15 $ the bottom is the biscuit bushing 90+$ Im not 100% positive but they may be the same size. You might try 2 tops and put one in the bottom. Yes you will have to empty the hopper, I believe the auger drops out of the bottom when the 2 bolts are removed
 
Bob was right that is a pipe fitting. Breckwell uses bronze bushings top and bottom. The top bushing can be had for 10-15 $ the bottom is the biscuit bushing 90+$ Im not 100% positive but they may be the same size. Yes you will have to empty the hopper, I believe the auger drops out of the bottom when the 2 bolts are removed
I believe my particular stove is from 94,if that matters. I got the 4 rpm ccw auger. The piece in there is more of an opaque white, not the normal white pvc is usually made of.

Anyway. On a few sites, they say the top bushing can usually be used in the bottom as well. But I'm assuming that's for the newer 1 rpm cw augers, their shaft is different.

Dropping the auger out the bottom, will the top bushing be held captive in by any means? Or will be be on the auger shaft? If it's on the shaft, then that's easy enough to reverse

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The difference in the auger shafts were the configuration of the blade pitch not the shaft itself. I don’t know about yours being so old but my 2004 big e it came out with bushing on the shaft and had to wiggle it around to get back in. Personally i woul get 2 tops and fit one for the bottom.
 
If I got the new biscuit bottom, I wouldn't need a thread in though, correct?

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if you got the replacement bushings you just remove the old and in with new. originally they were not threaded. they are in a floating cage

augerbushing.jpg
 
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There were differences,and,I do not know them.But,if you have doubt,call Don at east coast hearth,he will know.