2018/19 VC Owners Thread

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Try a scotch brite pad or steel wool. I’ve been using scotch brite pad for a couple of years. It does basically sand the paint down so after awhile you will most likely have to hit it with some stove paint. I haven’t had to paint mine yet but it’s getting close.

So will the scotch bright take the paint off some.. will i need to touch it up now.. if i dont touch it up will it rust..
Is ther a specific paint for the vc 2040.. tm thinking its a flat paint
 
Odd that plain water stained it. Is this a new stove?
 
So will the scotch bright take the paint off some.. will i need to touch it up now.. if i dont touch it up will it rust..
Is ther a specific paint for the vc 2040.. tm thinking its a flat paint
I don’t think it takes a lot off at all. It won’t rust. It shouldn’t be noticeable. I’ve been doing for a few years now to clean up water spots and haven’t had to touch up the paint yet. I would think stove brite stove paint in matte black would do just fine if any touch ups are needed.
 
I don’t think it takes a lot off at all. It won’t rust. It shouldn’t be noticeable. I’ve been doing for a few years now to clean up water spots and haven’t had to touch up the paint yet. I would think stove brite stove paint in matte black would do just fine if any touch ups are needed.

Thanks for the help.. i really appreciate it..GO TEAM VC
 
Stove Brite Metallic Black is used by many stove companies for their cast stoves.The flat looks dull.
 
We have some pretty bad water stains. We have very hard water, lots of sediment when it dries
 
Ok I've been thinking a lot about how to maximize a cold start...does this read as a good start?
You're learning how to integrate all of these variables and use your powers of observation to assess what is happening. That's something that makes it interesting to run a stove. The stove you have provides even more interest and excitement than most others; Enjoy!
 
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Yikes!!! This is what happens when you close the air half way and then go outside and get distracted for about 15 minutes or so. Luckily it was a quick spike and I’m pretty sure everything is still ok. Don’t want to ever see that again though.
 
Cat temps.
 
View attachment 235254
Yikes!!! This is what happens when you close the air half way and then go outside and get distracted for about 15 minutes or so. Luckily it was a quick spike and I’m pretty sure everything is still ok. Don’t want to ever see that again though.

That is warm!

I believe the probe is rated for 2000
 
That is warm!

I believe the probe is rated for 2000
Yeah scary business for sure. Everything seems to working good though
 
I’ve had my 2550 run away from me before. I decided to close up my secondary air intake this week to help minimize . Hopefully it will help


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I shut my secondary down at the beginning of this season. Last couple of mornings have been pretty damn cold so I’m guessing any primary air is getting the cat going pretty good.
 
I shut my secondary down at the beginning of this season. Last couple of mornings have been pretty damn cold so I’m guessing any primary air is getting the cat going pretty good.
Will disconnecting the secondary air vent allow you to better control the cat temps? Have 2550 with condar watchman thermometer. Just got it back together and after a few small test burns really put it to the test today. The thermometer manual says operating temp for condar cat is 700-1350. Have had it up to 1350 twice today and opened the damper to drop the temps. This is my first experience with a cat. What temps should be expected and not burn it out?
 
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Will disconnecting the secondary air vent allow you to better control the cat temps? Have 2550 with condar watchman thermometer. Just got it back together and after a few small test burns really put it to the test today. The thermometer manual says operating temp for condar cat is 700-1350. Have had it up to 1350 twice today and opened the damper to drop the temps. This is my first experience with a cat. What temps should be expected and not burn it out?

1350 is perfect cruising temps with no worry, heck I don't even mind up in the 1450s. Disconnecting and blocking the secondary has helped some of us get better stove control but YMMV.


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Well put 25' of liner down my chimney solo yesterday. Not sure why I think these things are a good idea on a roof with a peak like mine.... Finishing up the connections this week and I can't wait to learn this stove all over again [emoji52]


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Well put 25' of liner down my chimney solo yesterday. Not sure why I think these things are a good idea on a roof with a peak like mine.... Finishing up the connections this week and I can't wait to learn this stove all over again [emoji52]


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Did you do a complete rebuild this year?
 
I shut my secondary down at the beginning of this season. Last couple of mornings have been pretty damn cold so I’m guessing any primary air is getting the cat going pretty good.

Randy... just wondering if this is something I should consider eventually.

I’ve been burning quite a bit now and getting better at choosing the right fuels. That runaway griddle temp burn I had last week was the last time that happened.

I seem to have CAT temps under control now too.

So when I close down my primary even with good load of slower burning CAT engaged oak... should I see no flame? Should I be able to kill the fire completely? Or see a little flame in the middle still? Which is what happens now.

Just wondering how ones controls a burn that gets griddle temps too high even with primary closed. Guess my thought was I should be able to completely kill the fire. Maybe not.

And should I consider disconnecting secondary some day.
 
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I know this is a rookie question, but what is the best way to stack wood in my Encore to get the longest burn? Wood is properly seasoned- yes I re-split and take readings with my moisture meter.
Try and cross-cross the splits? Pull all the coals forward and pack the wood in there from the back to the front? 2 (sort of) parallel stacks with the flame between them? A different way?

I have my cat probe in, and am closing the damper when the GT reaches 450-500 and I see the AT100 temperature climb over 500 so the cat is working (it’s in excellent condition). I am trying to keep my GT temperature at about 450-500 as this is how I heat my home.

My doors are not right. I am going to strip off the gasket in a couple of days and redo it. I adjusted them so the gap is equal from top to bottom where they meet, and have adjusted the latch but it doesn’t pass the dollar bill test. I really don’t remember when the door became a problem.
 
Randy... just wondering if this is something I should consider eventually.

I’ve been burning quite a bit now and getting better at choosing the right fuels. That runaway griddle temp burn I had last week was the last time that happened.

I seem to have CAT temps under control now too.

So when I close down my primary even with good load of slower burning CAT engaged oak... should I see no flame? Should I be able to kill the fire completely? Or see a little flame in the middle still? Which is what happens now.

Just wondering how ones controls a burn that gets griddle temps too high even with primary closed. Guess my thought was I should be able to completely kill the fire. Maybe not.

And should I consider disconnecting secondary some day.

If your closing your primary you should see all of the flames go out in the box. You should still see your coals glowing but not super bright.. that is whats going on in my stove
 
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